Ask the Chef

May 23, 2007  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Q). I bought a beautiful salmon today! Yum! Any suggestions as to what I can make (edible!) with the head and bones? The recipes for fish stock don’t recommend using salmon.
Francesca, Via e-mail

A). The other night we had dinner with our friends the Clarks at their house and Terice slow-baked some fresh salmon – boy was that good.
Slow-Baked Salmon Recipe
Try this: make a simple stock of half water and half chicken stock. Add chopped tomatoes, basil, olive oil, fresh tarragon, a half cup of white wine and salt and pepper.

Simmer stock for 30 minutes. Place salmon steaks or filets in a casserole dish, pour the stock over them and put into a 250-degree oven. Check the fish after 25 minutes and serve when it is opaque. As for the bones, scrape off the meat with a teaspoon. You will end up with a lot, which can be used for salmon balls, salmon burgers or quenelles.
Q). Dear Chef, Many years ago, you had a restaurant in North Canton, Ohio. It was my favorite restaurant. They served a dish called the “San Franciscan”, a sesame coated halibut baked with banana. Is there any way to get the recipe? There are no Whaling Stations anywhere near here.
Jack G., Bradford, Pennsylvania
Via e-mail

A). Let’s see Jack, I have never been anywhere near North Canton, and…baked bananas with fish? I’ve never heard of it and cannot imagine why it would be named after Frisco. Let’s all just pass on this one.

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Readers: Broccoli rabe (pronounced “rob”) is a great, under-appreciated vegetable. So many people don’t know what it is. Also known as rapini, it is highly nutritious and contains chemicals that are proving to protect against cancer. With a flavor that is a little on the bitter side, it is delicious steamed or sautéed with olive oil, salt, pepper and garlic. According to “Mr. Rabe” (Andy D’Arrigo of Castroville), the D’Arrigo Brothers developed the seeds from the wild mustard plant, seen growing all over the place. I remember picking the wild stuff with my grandmother back in the 1940’s. Andy told me his company would buy from pickers during the depression, ice it and send it back east to the Italian market. By the way, my sister Jo was the fastest at picking wild greens. Man could that girl pick!

Q). I have never been able to make a good lemon-butter sauce to compliment petrale sole or sand dabs. Do you have a recipe for someone like me?
Cheryle A., Via e-mail

A). After sautéing your fish (any thin fish or filet will work), drain excess cooking oil and, if pan is dirty, wipe it out. Add a bit of chopped garlic and chopped parsley. Deglaze with an ounce or two of dry vermouth (or any dry white wine), reduce to a tablespoon then start adding sweet butter in small pieces, a bit at a time, whisking it until you have enough to spoon over your fish (2 or 3 tablespoons per order). Finish with a few squirts of fresh lemon. If this sounds difficult, it really isn’t. You may omit garlic and/or throw in a few capers – it will taste really good.

Q). I sure enjoy your weekly column in the Herald and get good tips from it. You have probably received many ideas on how to cook a whole abalone, I’ll enclose my copy anyhow. I used to live in the Carmel Highlands and my husband would go down into a cave on our rocks at low tide and bring a whole abalone up for me to make abalone pot roast. He would clean and pound it and I would cook it. Cooked this way was so tender you could cut it with a fork. The recipe was out of a 1946 Sunset

Magazine. Keep those ideas coming.
Bernice Pratt (a.k.a. Bunny)

The wine helps to point up the true abalone flavor. Chablis is preferred, but any dry white wine may be used.

Abalone Pot Roast Recipe
Serves 6
2 or 3 whole abalone (larger ones are available from Monterey Abalone Co.)
2 T. Cooking oil or shortening
2 cups dry white table wine
½ t. salt
1/8 t. paprika
1 T. Lemon juice
1 t. onion juice

In Dutch oven, brown the abalone lightly on both sides in heated oil. If a casserole dish is used, brown the abalone in a heavy pan first, and then place it in a casserole dish. Add remaining ingredients. Cover tightly and bake in a slow oven (300°) about 1½ hours, or until tender. Try it you’ll like it!

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The other day a very nice couple from Jamestown, New York walked into my office just to say hello. Geno and Patricia Micciche are regular viewers of Monterey’s Cookin’ on AmericanLife TV (2 times daily 5 days a week). Geno left me some very nice risotto recipes, they look very good. One is with butter nut squash and the other is with dried porcini. They are very nice people and they loved Monterey. Here are their recipes:.

Risotto Elegante Recipe
Serves 4 to 6 persons

1/2 lb rice (Arborio)
6 cups water
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1/2 stick butter
1 tbsp chopped white onions
2 tbsp chopped carrots (fine)
1/2 oz. dry porcini mushrooms (soaked in warm water for 1/2 hour)
1 tsp chopped fresh rosemary
1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese
salt & pepper to taste

Preparation: In a medium sized pan add water over medium high heat, at the boiling point add rice follow with salt. Cooking time 10

minutes (make sure not overcooked, aldente). Remove from the stove, strain rice – save water.

In a medium large non-stick frying pan, over medium high heat add olive oil follow with carrots and rosemary, cook for 2 minutes. Lower heat to medium, at this time add onions and the mushrooms after they have been removed from its water and washed and chopped. Cook for another 3 minutes, at this time add rice pre-cooked with the mushrooms water after it has been strained very well. Cook for another 2 minutes if rice gets dry use the rice water. Turn heat off add butter stir well add cheese stir again and serve immediately while its creamy.

Risotto Lombardo Recipe
Serves 4 to 6 persons

Ingredients & preparation
2 quarts of water
1/2 pound of Arborio rice
1 medium size butternut squash, peeled

Remove seeds and cut up in cubes. Cook into a quart of boiling water (medium high heat) for ten minutes, drain and mash. This can be done

the day before. At same time in a medium large pot add water, turn heat medium high, at boiling time add 1 tablespoon of sea salt and Arborio rice. Cook for 12 minutes,  remove from stove strain the rice and save the water. At the same time in a large non-stick frying pan on medium heat add the following:

2 tbsp of extra virgin olive oil
1 medium carrot chopped very fine
1 small white onion chopped fine
1 white celery stalk chopped fine
4 medium size white mushrooms, cleaned sliced thin
1 thick slice of pancetta (about 1/8 of a pound) diced in very small cubes

Stir well for 16 minutes add salt & pepper to taste and sprinkle a little of nutmeg, when these are well cooked, add squash, stir well follow it with pre-cooked rice, stir well cook for another 3 to 5 minutes, if necessary use rice water. Rice must not be over-cooked serve aldente. Remove from stove add 1/2 stick of butter, stir well add parmesan cheese about 1/2 cup. At this time rice should be hot and creamy, ready to serve.

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Here’s a great idea for the consumer – recently I was in San Remo, Italy at a produce market. Purple artichokes ready to go at 1/2 euro each (about 65 cents). These chokes seem to be more tender and sweet. They are eaten raw, sliced very thin, and dressed with lemon and olive oil - very good. Why aren’t purple chokes produced here?

While on the subject of unusual vegetables, how about white asparagus – It’s a whole different veggie. And what about those tomatoes called Heart of the Bull – I have seen these in farmer's markets, but very few.

Spring Mushroom Alert! Wanted to let you all know Charmoon still has a few openings left for his June 2-3 Sierra Nevada mushroom weekend. It has been advertised as a King Bolete (porcini) foray, but they may be going for morels instead. Fee of $150 includes campsite, Saturday dinner feast, Sunday breakfast, and all guidance and instruction. For registration info, or other questions, please give Charmoon a call, or drop an email. Charmoon Richardson

Wild About Mushrooms Co. 707-829-2063 www.wildaboutmushrooms.net

E-mail to the Chef: Thanks for the recipes for favas. I will take them back to Brooklyn and the Hamptons in June. Sounds like you have a source of favas but if you would like some already double-peeled, blanched and just recently frozen, let me know where to drop them off. If you would prefer some in the pods, I think I can do that too. My second planting should be just about ready to pick. Not too many fava fans here in Salinas to share them with.  Joe Pitta, Via e-mail

Chef response: People don’t know what they’re missing. Thank you Joe, but I really enjoy the process – I think it makes them sweeter. Thanks again, Jo-Jo!

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