Ask the Chef

May 2, 2007  ...  by Chef John Pisto

What makes a bisque a bisque rather than soup or cream soup?
Martha W.
Via e-mail

A). Bisque is a thick, rich soup usually consisting of smoothly pureed seafood (usually lobster or crab), vegetables or sometimes fowl, combines with heavy cream. The term soup usually refers to a combination of vegetables, meat or fish cooked in a stock or some other liquid. It can be thick

(bisque, cream soup or chowder) or it can be thin (bouillabaisse or consommé). Both are traditionally served hot and garnished with something like croutons or cheese. So, while a bisque is a soup, a soup is not necessarily a bisque. Still confused? Some soups are traditionally served chilled as in: gazpacho a Spanish classic made from the season’s best tomatoes; or vichyssoise the timeless cold French soup of potatoes, leeks and onions.
Folks, did you know that oregano grows like a weed around here? Follow these instructions and harvest just when it flowers – Cut it just about the dirt-line and it will grow back next year. Tie in bunches and hang upside down until dried, and store in a brown bag. Use on fresh tomato salad, pizza, sauté mushrooms and bruschetta, but not in pasta sauce where dried works best.

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Q). Can you help me with several culinary questions that have perplexed me for years? Firstly, is it proper or improper to break long pastas in half as they are put into the boiling water? Does it really make any difference? Secondly, many years ago at an Italian restaurant located on San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf, I had a wonderful crab and spaghetti dish. It was baked in an individual, portion size glass baking dish and served that way. It had large pieces of crab meat with spaghetti in a creamy cheese sauce that may have had a hint of tomato. Do you have any idea as to what it was or even a recipe? Lastly, also several years ago, you presented on the telly a roasted lamb "chunk" dish that I believe you discovered during your trip to Sardinia (or was it Corsica?). It looked delicious! Unfortunately, I cannot remember how you did it. Again, can you provide the
formula? Many, many thanks.
Your Enthusiastic, but Perplexed Fan,
Harry Keeler, Via e-mail

A). Remember, Perplexed – this is America, you can do what ever you want with your pasta, ok? As a matter of fact, I was taught to never, never, never break the pasta. A few years ago I did a show with Vince DeDomenico, the former owner of Golden Grain Pasta and the inventor of Rice-a-Roni. My shows are never rehearsed, we just shoot and go. I told Vince we would make his favorite pasta dish of all time which turned out to be linguine with butter and Reggiano parmesano. Okay, that’s easy, so I prepared the ingredients and when the water started to boil, I asked Vince to put in the pasta. To my amazement, he broke the linguine in half! “Holy Smokes Vince, what are you doing breaking the pasta!?” “John”, he said, “I always have broken the

pasta.”  “But why, Don Vincenso (he looks exactly like the Godfather in the movie)?” “Because, Johnny boy, I like it that way and it’s easier to eat the pasta as it sits on the fork better.” Folks, in any group, he is the boss.
Anyway Harry, I know this one simple version of the Crab and pasta dish:
Crab and Pasta Recipe

Make a béchamel sauce, add some crab meat and put into a casserole dish. Sprinkle on some cheese and a bit of tomato sauce and that’s it.
Lamb Corsican Style Recipe

The lamb dish you saw was indeed in Corsica. Buy a whole lamb shoulder and have the butcher cut it into 3-inch squares. Rub it down with olive oil, oregano and lots of garlic and bake it for 6 hours at 210 degrees. I prepared this dish for Julia Child and she called it “lamb confit”, Delicious!

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Q). My wife was very enthused after she watched your recent show on asparagus. She was describing an omelet with asparagus in it and also asparagus with a cream sauce. She also mentioned diced onions and other diced vegetables. How can I get the recipes for that show?
David Timme
Via e-mail

A). Lately, I have been roasting almost everything. So I thought, why not asparagus? Asparagus with Cream Sauce Recipe
Set the oven at 400 degrees. Trim your “grass” or peel the outer skin of the stalks with a potato peeler. Toss with some olive oil, salt and pepper and roast for ten or so minutes and drain well on a rack or some paper towels. This works with either green or white asparagus. When cooking white

asparagus, you have to peel them first. Then boil in salted water. These guys take more time to cook than the green. In a small bowl, whisk together some lemon juice and Dijon mustard with salt and pepper to taste. Fold in some chopped hard-boiled egg and chopped parsley and spoon it over the white asparagus.
Asparagus with Garlic Mayonnaise Recipe
Another great accompaniment for boiled or roasted asparagus is a home made garlic mayonnaise. Using a food processor combine two egg yolks, three peeled garlic cloves, salt and pepper, juice of half a lemon, a dash of hot pepper and a teaspoon of Dijon mustard then blend for 30 to 40 seconds until smooth. To finish, add one cup of olive oil in a steady stream (with the motor running of course). For best results, make sure the egg yolks and oil are the same temperature.
Q). We continue to be confused by the term “prime” when used with beef. We see many restaurants serving “prime cut steaks” or prime rib. You have been using the phrase “USDA Prime exclusively.” What is the distinction?
Carol and Fred B.
Fresno, CA.

A). This term “prime” is being used liberally these days, so it tends to lose meaning just like “reserve” with wines. When you see the word prime on a restaurant menu referring to beef, you should enquire as to whether they are referring to the USDA Prime grade, or just using it as an adjective. The supply of true USDA Prime graded beef is extremely tight (often as low as 1% of all beef graded in the U.S.) and that means it’s expensive. Make sure you’re getting what you are paying for.

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