Ask the Chef

March 14, 2007  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Readers: Mrs. Warren Thompson of Monterey dared me to relate a recipe she sent me that I find very interested. When her nine-year-old granddaughter was living in Hawaii, her Japanese teacher took several students to his parent’s taro patch to swim in the irrigation ditches, where there were tiny eels. The teacher said his family used to gather the eels, put them 
in a pan with a block of tofu and gently warm the pan until the eels burrowed into the tofu. Then they would heat the tofu enough to bake the eels, and serve. Around the world, I have found such fascinating culinary diversity. Take for example a dish I encountered in Kunming, China. I’m sure you’ll be wondering why they call it “Three squeaks mice.” First you need very small,
hairless mice that have yet to open their eyes. I’m talking small – the size of the end of your little finger. The first squeak is when you pick it up with your chopsticks; the second squeak is when you dip it in the chili-soy sauce and the third and final squeak is when you pop it in your mouth. Let met know if you want the recipe for the chili-soy sauce.

~~~~~

Q). I am learning about ancient civilizations in school. Our teacher said that jars called amphorae, found on the bottom of the Mediterranean Sea, were most often used for transporting "garum" fish sauce by the ancient Romans. What is garum fish sauce?
Jerad M.
Carmel Valley

A). As with modern Romans, sauces and marinades were an important part of ancient Roman cuisine. The most popular was garum, a salty, aromatic fish-based sauce. Like so many other Roman treasures, it was borrowed from the ancient Greeks. The following recipe is from "A Taste of Ancient Rome." Use fatty fish, such as sardines and a well-sealed container with a 26-35

quart capacity. Add dried, aromatic herbs possessing a strong flavor, such as dill, coriander, fennel, celery, mint, oregano, and others, making a layer on the bottom of the container; then put down a layer of fish (if small, leave them whole, if large, use pieces) and over this, add a layer of salt, two fingers high. Repeat these layers until the container is filled. Let it rest for seven days in the sun. Then mix the sauce daily for 20 days. After that, it becomes liquid. Folks, if you're up for making this sauce, I strongly recommend that you go with the modern recipe: Cook a quart of grape juice, reducing it to one-tenth its original volume. Dilute two tablespoons of anchovy paste in the concentrated juice and mix in a pinch of oregano. And then - let me know how it comes out.

Q). Enjoyed your tongue-in-cheek suggestion for tenderizing abalone (under the wheels of your car), but seriously, my nephew cleans wild abalone then wraps it in a towel and gives it a whack and then bakes it with butter and garlic - delicious! My question is, do you have a good and simple recipe for meatless chili?
Thanks.
via e-mail
David Knight
Seaside, CA

A). I’ve heard of whacking the whole abalone before. You must however whack until the whole foot is released and there is a slight tear in the meat. When I say whack, I mean a real good one. Try a 2 x 4 or a tree limb.

~~~~~

Meatless Chili Recipe:
Soak 12 dried ancho chiles (long red ones - not hot) in warm water or boil for 3 to 4 minutes, remove the seeds and stem. Place the chiles in a blender and reserve some of the water. Blend with just enough water to make a thick paste. Set aside. Sauté 3 ears of fresh roasted corn off the cob, 2 chopped onions, 6 chopped celery ribs, 10 garlic cloves, and 2 bunches of chopped cilantro. Have ready 6 cups of cooked or canned beans (black or kidney). Sauté everything for 5 minutes using lard (don’t be intimidated by the food police) or corn oil. Add the beans and some vegetable stock only if more liquid is needed, you want it to be thick. Next, add your chili paste. It should turn everything chili-red. Add salt and pepper to taste, 3 tablespoons ground cumin, a bit of sugar and cook for 30 minutes. To finish it off add 3 tablespoons brown sugar and 3oz.of vinegar and that’s it. You could squash the beans a bit with a potato masher to thicken it up and add some Pico de Gallo or Tabasco to spice it up.
Q). I have gone through several Italian cookbooks looking for an Alfredo sauce to no avail. I would appreciate it if you would solve my dilemma. Thank you very much.
Tricia Atwood
via e-mail

A). With all the talk these days about cream and butter being so bad for you, I’m glad to see that someone still craves this delicious, rich dish. I wonder how long it will take people to realize that your body needs fat. It’s the carbs that are the enemy, folks. That’s right - sugar, flour, and other simple carbs are the true enemy. Enjoy this dish without any guilt; just go easy on the pasta, ok?

Pasta Alfredo Recipe
Serves 8 people
1lb. sweet butter
1qt. heavy cream
1/2 lb. grated parmesan
salt & pepper
nutmeg (freshly grated is the best)
1lb. dried pasta (fettuccini or linguini)
Have warmed plates ready

Add pasta to 4 quarts of salted, boiling water. It will cook in 8 to 10 minutes. In a large frying pan add 1/2 quart of heavy cream and start reducing it. As it reduces, add chunks of butter as the cream evaporates it will start getting thicker. Keep it on low. At this point drain the pasta (saving some water - very important) Add pasta to cream and butter. Now start stirring, add more cream and butter it should be soupy because it dries out quickly.

When all the butter and cream has been added, start adding the cheese and taste. When it tastes balanced (cream to butter to cheese), check the salt. Finish with a shot of black pepper and nutmeg (some folks use egg yolks to thicken it further). Plate it up and garnish with leaves of fresh basil, more cheese, and fresh cracked pepper. Remember, small portions buddy.

For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants
in Monterey, California, click here.

Pisto Home Page  ♦ Current Article  ♦ Index of Articles, Recipes and Subjects