Ask the Chef

July 25, 2007  ...  by Chef John Pisto

“The truth and nothing but the truth.” Well, folks, I have sold two of my restaurants. Both on Monterey’s Fishermen’s Wharf. Abalonetti’s was sold to businessman extraordinaire Jim Gilbert, owner of several Wharf businesses. Jim’s son Christopher who has been around restaurants most of his life will be at the helm. Chris has assured me that the level of quality and service will be maintained, especially since all the same people like manager Stuart, super-server Joe and chef Julio, will still be there working. There is a huge long-standing reputation to maintain as Abalonetti’s is the benchmark for calamari, and nobody comes close. Best of luck Chris – you can do it!
Domenico’s goes to Dominic, Sammy and Angeli Mercurio and their families – Johnny, Sal, Katherine and little Dom. Dominic and Sam are my nephews and Dominic was part of the original Domenico’s when it opened in 1981. The restaurant was even named after him. Dominic started in the business with me once he was old enough to use the cash register and see over the counter (I think he was 10 or 11), the same with Sammy. Domenic has come home, so to speak, and he has already made some great changes. I’m so proud to see my nephews, grand nephews and grand nieces continue to operate this great traditional restaurant. It is a real family affair. This ends a chapter in my life that began in the 1940’s when I used to
play on the beach (before there was a marina), fish, and spearfish under the Wharf. Change is good. A special thanks to all the friends that I have met over the years and of course all of the employees that have worked for me through the decades on the Wharf. See you around!

New Monterey restaurant
Bistro Moulin
is worth trying! Just down the street from my office on Wave St.., this is a real local neighborhood-type restaurant. Didier (former chef for over 20 years at Casanova in Carmel) and wife have created an 8 table European-style café. Simple, honest home cooking and nice people too. Don’t forget to check out peppermill Mike next door!

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Dear Chef. It was nice to see you and I appreciate your enthusiasm regarding Monterey Bay Kayak Fishing Co. You’d asked about what I do and why. I love this question! I’ll try to be brief, basically the evolution of one local recreational fisherman. Twenty five plus years fishing Monterey Bay, the last eight years fishing by kayak. It can’t be beat. My girlfriend Hally suggested that I’d do well to somehow apply my passion. By this time I’d acquired enough gear so I started inviting others to join me on the water. What a concept. My son Gabriel, Hally, relatives, friends or anyone else interested. Sharing was my new passion. We have access to some of the best fishing areas right here in our own backyard in the least invasive and most responsible manner. Fishing the kelp forests of Stillwater cove or Cannery Row
for numerous types of rockfish (vermillion, coppers, olives, blues, yellows and ling cod just to name a few). I enjoy most on the dinner table. Or the sandy beaches off of Del Monte Beach for my favorite outing, halibut. With this kind of access to parts of our bay so special and teeming with wildlife, we find ourselves consumed with the experience and, better yet, wanting to be part of keeping it this way. Twelve months later, I find myself a fully licensed kayak fishing guide who’s outfitted and equipped to guide others who may share my passion. Convenient and easy, just bring a great attitude and I’ll handle the rest. Maximum three people at one time and I’m always right there for my clients. Our last outing to Stillwater Cove yielded good numbers of gophers, yellows and big blues. Two of the blues came to dinner, the rest were all
safely caught and released. I enjoy catch and release, no waste of our resource. Wouldn’t mind being out on the water with you John! I’ll look forward to any questions you may have. Certainly I’ve only scratched the surface here.
Hope Alaska went well.

Blake Hawes
Via e-mail

Chef Responds. Blake, you are the (fisher) man! Call out to fly fishermen and rockfish lovers. Monterey Bay Kayak Fishing Co. will take you fly fishing off of Stillwater Cove or Cannery Row. Fully licensed and outfitted. Man, does that sound like a ball – or maybe even a TV. show – call Blake at 831-241-2114 or e-mail blake@mbkayakfishing.com

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In this picture, the proud parents of a latticed homemade apple pie. A Fourth of July tradition of Bobby and Stalee Vander Woude. It is one of the best – Bobby’s mother’s secret recipe. But I’ll tell you one thing, slice the apples paper thin – What a mug!

Peaches are here, full-blast. I helped daughter Gia entertain a few school friends the other night. Pizza and Rosélinis - you’ve heard of the Bellini? White peach puree and peach schnapps topped off with prosecco (Italian sparkling rosé wine). Well this is a twist! White peaches peeled and sliced placed in a blender with a little sugar and a shot or two of peach schnapps. Blend well, then pour 1 or 2 oz into a champagne flute and top off with some California sparkling rosé. The young adults went nuts!

Q).
How do you clean a whole skate to get the proper part of the wing? Do you need to skin the wing or can you cook it and take the skin off later?
Wynn Wood, Via e-mail
A). What you want to do is first par-boil the wings. Have water boiled and submerge the wings briefly (3 to 4 minutes). Let cool then skin the wings. From there it can be floured and sautéed or poached in a fish fumet. Remove the meat and use as you would crab meat. If you’re a Monterey local, Royal Seafood always has them. Ask for Geno (372-5807). While your there, poke your head into Monterey Fish Market (375-3511) – talk about a great assortment of fresh products such as sardines, anchovies, mackerel and whole rockfish. Two great fish markets right at our door step!
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