Ask the Chef

July 11, 2007  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Q). Hey Chef, haven’t heard anything about Favorite Bay, Alaska. Any trips planned for this summer? We always enjoy reading about your adventures there with Floyd the Mayor / guide, the bears and the great fishing.
Mary and Jason M.
Marina, CA., Via e-mail

A). Funny you should ask. I just returned from another incredible visit way up north, this time with my brother-in-law, the legendary olive man – Jean Mercurio. What a blast! Already on the first day the fishing was unbelievable. At least 200 pounds of caught, I’m talking cod averaging 12 lbs.,

about 50 halibut and rockfish 5-7 lbs. each. This was as perfect a day as you could imagine. Jean was in his element – non stop fishing, glassy water and master guide Floyd Kookash leading the way along with his soon-to-be-son-in-law Charlie.

Day 2 starts with a man-sized breakfast by Chef Pierre Coutou – eggs, bacon, yogurt, juices, fresh fruit, hot muffins, cereal and lots of hot coffee. Then a two minute boat ride to catch bait (live herring). Takes about 10 minutes to catch all we need – 8-10 lbs. Meanwhile, all around us are bald eagles doing the same. We counted at least 15 eagles fishing along with us. I can

never say enough about Floyd – master-guide, master-fisherman, master-cook, master-storyteller and master-baiter. He is also the master of Angoon, Alaska where guides carry 50 caliber handguns (hear that Clint?) just in case while fishing a stream, clamming or shrooming, you run into a brown bear. That’s because there are more bears per square mile on Admiralty Island than any other place on earth – magnificent! This is the most diverse fishing experience anywhere with 4 varieties of trout, 5 kinds of salmon, halibut, herring, rockfish, yellow eye, true cod, black cod, and skate.

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One morning we watched a humpback whale for several hours gliding around in the inside passage water, which is so protected it’s like a lake. We always meet the most interesting people like Howard Stienhof, a real outdoorsman and fisherman. He’s fished all over the world and calls this the best all-around fishing he’s experienced. Deckhand Charlie Frisby is half Haida and half Yup'ik a descendant of genuine aboriginal Eskimos. Charlie is 31 years old and has fished all over Alaska, from the southeast to the Yukon and St. Paul – the real deal, folks. He and Floyd’s daughter Malisa are expecting their first child soon – a boy (no doubt a new generation of master-everything).
 

Final morning and Jean catches the first fish of the day with his own set up – is he proud, or what?! By 4 pm we are loaded up once again with a tremendous catch, including a 25 lb. King salmon – and dead tired. An hour later, just outside of Angoon, Jean wants to try for one  more King. While we are catching more bait, Floyd breaks out some of his famous smoked sockeye – firm, smoky, oily and delicious. Okay Jean-o, it’s off to see the fish

cleaner and get some dinner. Pierre prepared a tasty menu of deep-fried whole snapper, smoked salmon appetizers, crab cakes and King salmon. Jean and I just had to have some pasta so I made a fast sauce – perfect. Floyd dropped by and, while sharing a drink or two, gave Jean a very high complement. He said, “We get a lot of people visiting up here but not many fishermen – I mean real fishermen. Makes me think twice about saying I’m a fisherman. The love of fishing is deeply ingrained in his genes, I’m sure.” Many thanks to our wonderful hosts Dana Durand, Kimberly Roberts and Gil Lucero. These people will show you hospitality you won’t believe, from the moment you step off the seaplane.

In fact, join me next month for my next visit to Favorite Bay on August 22. Call Kimberly Roberts (866) 788-3344 for booking details, and in the meantime, enjoy Chef Pierre’s renowned “floating island” dessert recipe:

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Pierre Coutou's Floating Island

Make a sweet meringue using 6 egg whites, a dash of vanilla, a drop of almond extract and a pinch of salt. Whip until stiff. Place four large scoops in a microwave-safe dish with 1/2-inch of water or milk in the bottom. Microwave 45 seconds to 1 minute. Check to see if done and maybe give it another 15-30 seconds.
Make a vanilla sauce: Heat to a simmer, 2 cups of cream with a shot of vanilla and a little rum extract. Whip egg yolks (left over from the meringue) with 1/2-cup of sugar until yellow. When cream simmers, remove from heat and add yolks, continuing to stir until it thickens. Give it a little more heat if needed, but don't let it boil.
Caramel sauce: Melt a ½ cup of sugar slowly in a heavy pan - watch it closely so it doesn't burn - until it becomes light brown. To assemble: Fill the bottom of a good sized soup-type bowl with the cooled vanilla sauce. Place a meringue "Island" in the middle, then drizzle with warm caramel sauce. Finish with slivered almonds and a dusting of cocoa powder.
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