Ask the Chef

January 24, 2007  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Are you a true oyster lover? Or, do you love an oyster lover and need one of the best Valentine’s gifts around? How about a Valentine’s oyster package delivered to your door? Boys or girls can give it – makes no difference. You get five kinds of oysters, all true native oysters of the Pacific Coast. The Olympia, Pacific, Virginia, the super-delicious tiny Kumamoto and the European Flat. Your package comes complete with an oyster knife, shucking instructions and “The Art of Eating an Oyster” guide. Also includes a certificate guaranteeing success in “LOVE”. Watch out! Sounds like there’s going to be a hot time in the old
town tonight. Call (360) 432-3300 for complete info. or go to www.taylorshellfish.com. Orders received by February 12 will be delivered by Valentine’s Day.

Q). An Australian friend wrote on his Christmas card that he and his wife now have an olive grove. I’m sending them your three columns regarding curing olives. My daughter brought home a menu from a fancy Southern California restaurant that included a “Peekytoe crab” salad. I’ve heard of a lot of different types of crab, but not this one. A local chef promised to call me back with an answer a week ago – have you heard of the Peekytoe?
Janice A., Indio, Ca., Via e-mail

A). The Peekytoe crab was named around 1997 as a marketing angle by a Portland, Maine seafood wholesaler. Also known as a rock, mud or sand crab the peekytoe was previously just a by-catch product of the lobster fishery. Resembling a Dungeness only much smaller, they are said to require significant skill for proper cleaning, are highly perishable and difficult to ship. The meat is pink with a sweet, delicate flavor and has appeared on many trendy restaurant menus. I consulted my source and he said they’re okay, but fresh cooked Dungeness is better.

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Q). I'm looking for the recipe for the bronzed ahi I saw on your show. Looked great! Also, how do you keep tuna (and everything else) from sticking to the iron skillet? I don't like the idea of only cleaning the skillet with salt, so I wash it, and heat it back up and then apply olive oil to keep the cure. Is there a better way to treat the skillet?
Craig
Via e-mail

A). Let’s talk about sticking first. The pan must be HOT! Give it a good 5 minutes on medium-high for fish. If your skillet isn’t hot enough, you will always have a sticky situation. For a piece of tuna, rub oil all over it first and lightly oil your pan (or carefully

spray non-stick spray on the pan – carefully, or there could be a flare-up). I always wash my cast iron with hot water and a scrubber. Then dry and that’s it. First there was blackening, then there was bronzing. The secret? Don’t cook it as long!

Q). Dear Chef, I am interested in the recipe for short ribs I saw on your TV show last week.
Sandy D.
Clearwater, Fla.
Via e-mail

A). An ideal recipe for these cold nights. I used beef short ribs however, country spareribs (thick-cut with the bone) will work well too. Season the ribs with salt and

pepper and sauté in butter and olive oil – browning nicely. Remove from pan, and then add carrots, celery, onion, garlic, olives, parsley, a bit of fresh thyme and dried chestnuts (optional). Sauté a bit then put the ribs back in. Top off with a good quality red wine (don’t use a sweet cheap red, remember, always cook with a wine that you would drink). Bring to a boil, cover and turn heat down to medium low. Stir occasionally so nothing sticks. Check in about 1 hour and 15 minutes. The meat should fall off the bone and will be absolutely succulent. Serve with rice, polenta, a wide pasta or you could add potatoes, turnips or rutabagas when you first add the vegetables.

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Q). Dear Mr. Pisto, As an Italian-American, I eat pasta often and suffer from acid reflux. Any suggestions?
Lee V.
Carmel

A). Ah, Mr. Lee, Mr. Lee, acid reflux, better known as "agita", let's tackle that one first. If you watch a lot of movies about New York, you'd know Italians have a saying: "You either get agita or you give it." Acid reflux, to my understanding, is caused mainly by overeating at night and then laying down (couching it). Try eating a smaller meal at 

dinnertime; don’t lie down so quick and go easy on the wine. Also, taste your tomatoes. If they are not sweet enough, add sugar, as this will also help your stomach. Here is a good pasta recipe using fresh Roma tomatoes.

For 1 pound of pasta

Start with four pounds of ripe Roma’s. Leave them out until they are nicely ripe and soft. Dice them with a very sharp knife. Sauté a bit of garlic and one medium onion in extra virgin olive oil. Add a pinch of crushed red pepper and salt and pepper. Add the chopped tomatoes

and cook until the water disap-pears and starts to make a sauce. This should take 20 to 30 minutes. Have your water already boiling, with salt, for cooking linguine. Now the good part. After the sauce is cooked, use a garlic press to add 3 cloves of fresh garlic - that's right folks, fresh garlic! Drain the pasta; saving a small amount of pasta water and add to the sauce. Toss well with good-quality, freshly grated Romano cheese - the sharper the better. Finally, toss in a handful of fresh chopped basil and, one last thing; make sure everyone in the house eats this one. Ah, the smell of fresh garlic!
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