February 28, 2007 Ask the Chef Article

Q). When you cook a thick steak, after searing on the outside, at what temperature do you finish cooking it and how do you test for doneness?

Lynn Hohler
Pleasanton. CA
Via e-mail

A). You're talking about my favorite method of cooking a steak by first searing and crusting it in a hot pan and then finishing it in the oven. The oven temperature I use is about 400 degrees. You must be careful because after removing from the oven, the meat is still cooking. Unless you know how to

test with touching and pressure on the meat or have a digital meat thermometer, just simply make a small cut in the corner and look inside. I'm talking about a 1/2 to 3/4 inch slit. It will cook rather quickly so stay on top of it. You also want to let the meat rest for several minutes before serving so the juices don’t all run out when you cut into it. For a memorable steak dinner try this method for creating a flavorful sauce that you’ll surely want to mop up with some good Italian bread.

Green peppercorn steak - Serves 2 - 1/2 cup of beef stock or from bouillon cubes, 1/4 cup finely chopped shallots, 1/4 cup brandy, 1/4 cup green peppercorns in brine, 1/4 cup heavy cream, 1 tsp. butter. De-glaze the pan (used to sear the steak) with bouillon to start the sauce, freeing all of the tasty bits from the bottom. Add shallots and stir. Carefully add the brandy and the green peppercorns with brine and stir. Add the cream and stir until the sauce thickens. Finally, add butter and stir until melted. Slice steak (1/4 inch to 1/2 inch) at an angle. Place on plates, spoon the sauce over the meat and serve.

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Q). My husband loves Thai barbecued ribs and I’d love to make him some. Do you have a recipe to share?
Kai
Via e-mail

A). Kai craving Thai? I have been serving Thai barbecued baby back ribs at my Cannery Row restaurant for the past several years and people have told me they’re the best around. Unfortunately, Kai, if you are a regular reader of this column you probably know of my reluctance to share my restaurant recipes (even denying my grandmother on her deathbed). Here’s one that’s close so you can make your husband’s day.

Thai Baby Back Ribs
Serves 4

2 sides pork baby bock ribs or your favorite ribs

Thai Barbecue Sauce
Makes 3 cups

6 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons finely minced ginger
8 serrano peppers or other small hot chiles, minced, including seeds
4 small green onions, green and white parts, minced
1/4 cup minced cilantro sprigs
1 tablespoon grated or minced lime zest
Juice from 3 limes
1 cup hoisin sauce
1/2 cup wine vinegar
1/4 cup Thai or Vietnamese fish sauce
1/4 cup honey
2 tablespoons dark soy sauce
2 tablespoons flavorless cooking oil

Remove the membrane from the underside of the ribs. Then place the ribs in a rectangular dish or baking pan. To make the sauce, combine all the sauce ingredients and stir well.

Coat the ribs evenly on both sides with half the sauce. Marinate the ribs, refrigerated, for at least 15 minutes. For more flavor, marinate for up to 8 hours. Reserve the remaining sauce to serve on the side with the ribs. To grill the ribs, if using a gas barbecue, preheat to medium (325 degrees). Occasionally during cooking, baste the ribs with the marinade, stopping 15 minutes before removing the ribs from the grill. Keep an eye so that the sauce doesn’t burn and just let a flavorful crust develop while the meat cooks through. To serve, cut each side of ribs in half, into 3 sections, or into individual ribs. Transfer to a heated serving platter or 4 heated dinner plates and serve at once accompanied by the reserved sauce.

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Q). I read an article in the Monterey County Herald about your annual private dinner party at your home during the AT&T (Golf Tournament). The menu sounded simply scrumptious and very fancy. The celebs you mentioned as regular guests, including Michael Bolton and Kenny G (two of my favorite musicians) were there. You cooked a special dish for Michael (eggplant parmesan), would that have been a pasta dish? I love eggplant! Just curious, are the men’s female partners invited to the dinner too or is it the men only? Wondering if Michael’s fiancé Nicollette Sheridan attended?
Kim Akimoto
Via e-mail

A). We were all hoping to meet Nicollette but didn’t make it this time and mostly the celebrities show up by themselves. This is a very tight group of special folks that really enjoy each other’s company, and we all get a kick out of the stories they tell. As for the eggplant parmesan, Michael Bolton and I bonded over a love of eggplant when I first had him on my TV show a few years ago and we cooked it several ways. There’s no pasta involved in Eggplant Parmigiana but it’s a hearty classic. One more thing, although the name refers to parmesan cheese, I prefer to use a good Romano.

Eggplant Parmigiana
First, make a simple marinara sauce:
1 medium onion chopped
6 medium garlic cloves chopped
1 tablespoon crushed red pepper
salt & pepper to taste
1 bunch parsley and basil chopped
1 28oz. can of Italian whole tomatoes in puree
2 medium eggplants sliced thin, brushed with olive oil, sprinkled with salt and pepper

Roast on a sheet pan in a 400 degrees oven until just starting to turn color - 10 to 15 minutes. You’ll want to make about 4 layers so pick the right size pan. Start with a layer of sauce, then eggplant, then sauce, then freshly grated Romano cheese and top off with sauce and more cheese. Bake at 350 degrees until it bubbles - 40 to 50 minutes. Let rest 15 minutes and watch out!