Ask the Chef

February 7, 2007  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Q). I learned from my mother; if the pasta pot is about to bubble over, just blow on it, a long steady breath. It will knock down the foam for a while, and you can turn down the heat a bit. Also, a little oil or butter can help. Do you have any other suggestions?
Steve Bean, Santa Cruz,
Via-e-mail

A). Sounds like it would work - just don’t inhale. The long-term solution, Stevie-boy, is a bigger pot!

Q). What is chicken-fried steak? I have always thought it was chicken, but my husband says it is actually steak. Also, is it difficult to make?
Julie Valdez, Via e-mail

A). You’re talking about one of my all-time favorites and a popular dish at The Whaling Station. As I understand, it was brought over by German immigrants in the 1800’s. Probably in the manner of schnitzel (or cutlets), which always refers to meat (beef, pork, or veal), pounded out in seasoned flour before pan-frying. Pound your favorite meat in flour with a kitchen mallet or the edge of a sturdy plate. Fry it in bacon grease and, after removing it from the pan, add some milk to the bacon grease to make a gravy. After you eat one of these, you’re ready to go out and plow the back forty. This is real comfort food, not seen around here much but still very popular in the south.
Here’s my recipe for chicken-fried steak “Pisto style.” Have your butcher tenderize some round steak or sirloin tip – no more than a half-inch thick. Next, season some flour with salt and pepper, Sensational Seasoning, garlic powder, and sage. Dip in flour, then in an egg wash, then flour again. You can also dip it in buttermilk, then seasoned flour and fry. Fry them in bacon fat, lard or vegetable oil. To make a pan gravy, drain oil from pan. Add bacon (chopped very fine), buttermilk, chopped green onions, and a bit of garlic. Stir to pick up all the pieces from the bottom of the pan and don’t forget the mashed potatoes. 

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Q). What’s the difference between bruschetta and crostini?
Willie Jong
Via e-mail

A). Bruschetta are slices of country bread grilled over a wood fire then rubbed with garlic. The bread is usually cut into good-sized slices and topped with things like chopped tomatoes and basil, or smoked salmon. Crostini literally means “little crusts.” They are usually small enough to serve as hors d’ oeuvres. One famous one is made with chicken livers. Rustic breads take on a wonderful flavor when toasted on an open fire. Try spreading on a thin layer of some good quality sweet butter and toast the bread until it gets a little burnt on the edges. If you don’t have an open fire handy, try a stovetop grill, it works just as well.

Q). What is a true Reuben sandwich? Should it be served hot?
R. Lobonte
Santa Clara

A). Reuben Kulakofsky, a grocer from Omaha, Nebraska, is said to have invented this sandwich as part of a group effort by members of his weekly poker game held in the Blackstone Hotel from 1920-1935. The participants included the hotel's owner, Charles Schimmel, and the sandwich first gained local fame when Schimmel put it on the Blackstone's lunch menu. To make a good Reuben, first you must have good, fresh rye bread, some hot and thinly sliced corned beef and some good quality sauerkraut (rinsed to remove a lot of the salt and squeezed dry). Next make a Russian dressing, which is one part mayonnaise to 1/4 part chili sauce, a shot of fresh horseradish, a dash of Worcestershire, chopped

parsley, a bit of grated onions and salt and pepper to taste. Now put some dressing on both sides of the bread, pile on the corned beef (at least 2 inches high), add real Swiss cheese and the sauerkraut. Butter the bread and grill it until it’s nicely browned on both sides and the cheese is melted. Cut it in half; serve with crispy new pickles, potato salad or coleslaw and lots of napkins!

Readers: Now that the big tournament week is here, some advice to new golfers (like me). If you’re going to play bad, play fast!

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Q). It has been a long time since I had chicken cacciatore. I want to make it for my family. Do you have a simple recipe that I could use?
Joey Cox, Via e-mail

A). Cacciatore means “hunter” in Italian and it is a hunter-style braised chicken dish, usually made with a tomato based sauce. My Mom’s recipe has no tomatoes in it and I believe it is more authentic. I’ve prepared it with pheasant and woodpecker (just kidding), even rabbit, squirrel (not kidding) and, of course, chicken. Try this one it’s a ripper!

Chicken Cacciatore
6 legs and thighs
6 cups celery diced
6 garlic cloves diced
2 large onions diced
1 bunch parsley chopped
1 bunch fresh thyme minced
2 bay leaves

1 pinch crushed red pepper
1 qt. chicken stock
1 cup green olives
1 cup black olives
1 oz. dried mushrooms soaked in 1 cup of wine
2 cups dry white wine

Season the chicken and brown off in a large deep pot, in 1/2 oil and 1/2 butter. Remove from pot. Add all vegetables, mushrooms, olives, spices and herbs. Let soften 20 minutes, add wine and reduce to ½ then add back the chicken. Add 1 cup stock, cover and simmer on medium-low. If it dries out, add more stock. It should not be swimming in juice, but it should produce about 2 cups of rich gravy. Cook for 1 hour. Chicken should fall off the bone! Serve over soft polenta.

Readers: The oyster-lover Valentine’s package I told you about from Taylor Shellfish Farms of Shelton, Washington will be featured on NBC's The Today Show the morning of Feb. 13 as part of a feature on aphrodisiac foods. Taylor Shellfish is offering two and four-dozen Valentine's Day Oyster packages (see at www.taylorshellfish.com) featuring five species of just-harvested oysters (Olympia, Kumamoto, Pacific, Virginica and European Flat) which come with a certificate guaranteeing success in love direct from Cupid. The amorous inducement includes a shucking knife, shucking instructions, an Oyster Guide, and Jon Rowley's "The Art of Eating an Oyster" all for $29 for the two dozen package and $48 for the four dozen package plus shipping. Oyster lovers have never had it so good. Order by noon Feb. 12 for Valentine's Day delivery.
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