Ask the Chef

April 25, 2007  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Q). What was in the marinade you used for the oxtail and short rib stew/soup you prepared on your show (3/30/07)?
J. D. Bigelow
Via e-mail

A). This is an excellent example of some rustic cooking I enjoyed in Croatia. It consists of a full-bodied red wine, fresh thyme, crushed garlic, 2 bay leaves, chopped carrots, onions and celery. By adding some beef stock to this you can finish cooking the meat.

Q). Do any of your restaurants serve complete meals catering strictly to carbohydrate/protein dieters? Most restaurants seem to be of the opinion that dieters – which number over 50,000,000 at any one time, are only interested

in low-calorie offerings, when in fact there is a huge (no pun intended) number who are interested in eating certain specific foods, e.g. those foods high in protein (some fat is okay) and low in carbohydrates. Foods like vegetables and pastas may be suitable for vegetarians and calorie-counters, but if one is on a low-carb, high protein diet, these foods are “ketosis-killers.” Restaurateurs have attempted to address the calorie issue but are seemingly unaware of the market for low-carb dieters. P.S. we love you whether you can help or not.
Betty L.
Santa Clara

A). Great question. I think I know the diet you’re on. For those that don’t know, “ketosis” is the condition that exists when the body, being starved of carbohydrates as

the normal source of energy, burns stored fat for fuel instead. The most famous diet of this type, known as the “Atkins diet” is an extreme example. Any of these diets should first be discussed with your doctor. The trick to eating in restaurants is to know how to order. For example, try an appetizer of smoked salmon with tomato slices and capers, followed by a steak, chicken or fish – hold the potatoes or rice – and stay away from the bread basket. Some complex carbohydrates such as legumes are okay. Personally, I believe in the latest studies that say the body needs some carbohydrates. A great example of a balanced dish, from the menu at Abalonetti, consists of grilled Pacific swordfish on a bed of green beans and ratatouille (eggplant, zucchini and tomatoes).

~~~~~

A reader contributes: Several columns ago someone wrote in and asked for a seafoam candy recipe. This one is very old; it was my mother’s. Please feel free to share it with anyone who might like it. Really enjoy your column.
June K.R.
Salinas

Chef Responds: How about this folks. What a nice lady, way to go June!

Seafoam Candy Recipe
3 1/2 cups light brown sugar (packed)
1 tblsp. vinegar
1 tsp. vanilla
1/8 tsp. salt
1 cup water
2 egg whites beaten

Combine sugar, water, salt and vinegar in a heavy 3 quart saucepan. Cook, stirring until sugar has dissolved. Continue cooking without stirring, until small amount of mixture forms a firm ball when dropped in cold water (248 degrees F with a candy thermometer).

Beat egg whites until stiff, but not dry. Pour about half the syrup slowly over egg whites, beating constantly. Do not scrape the sides of the pan. Cook remainder until small amount forms hard threads in cold water (272 degrees F). Add slowly to first mixture, beat until mixture holds its shape or loses its gloss. Add vanilla, then drop by spoonfuls onto waxed paper, or spread in buttered 9x9x2 inch pan. When firm, cut into squares and dip in chocolate (optional). Makes about 1 1/2 pounds.

~~~~~

Q). My 13 year old grandson caught a four foot shark at Moss Landing. My daughter cooked some with lemon juice, butter and garlic. No one likes it. They all said it tasted medicinal. Please advise how to handle shark, as I am sure there must be a better way. Also, what is the medicinal taste coming from? Please let me know soon, as they have given me the rest of it to see if I can do something with it. Read your articles in the Herald and enjoy them very much. Sometimes catch your TV show. Also, fun to watch.
Doreen V.
Monterey, Via e-mail

A), Shark is kind of a pain. I’m not sure what kind of shark he caught, but shark must be butchered as soon as possible because the meat is highly perishable. Shark contains a chemical compound commonly found in the body (especially in the urine) called urea. Urea becomes ammonia through enzymatic action. So the basic principle of shark cookery is first to leach out the ammonia by soaking the filets in a brine

solution (2 lb. salt to 5 gallons of water). You can also use vinegar, lemon juice, or milk to neutralize the ammonia. Ok Doreen, you still with me? A few hours of soaking is usually okay if you cut it into small pieces. Larger filets will take maybe 8 hours or more. Actually, just tell your grandson to throw the future ones back and give you a break.

Q). I’m writing to you about clam chowdah, yea, chowdah – I’m from Maine. I’m a culinary arts student in Bath, Maine. I love your cooking show and you, along with many others, have inspired me to start my own cooking show after I’m done with my education. I remember a while ago you did a New England clam chowder recipe and it looked great. I decided to make it myself and it was remarkable. I have since then had the chance to enter a chowder cook-off with our neighboring culinary class a couple of towns over. I want to use your recipe but I never wrote it down and didn’t find it on your website. Could you send it to me along with some advice for starting my own cooking show?
Sincerely, Big Jon, Via e-mail

A). Hey Jon, as you are a student of the culinary arts, I challenge you to come up with your own recipe. Be inventive with all the great natural ingredients you have there and it should be a snap. Chowdah or chowder, whatever you call it, is basic and there are lots of options. Let’s explore this a bit, okay Big Jon? Salt pork or bacon; canned, frozen or fresh clams (what local varieties would work?); red potatoes or bakers; fresh clam juice or canned; roux or no roux; parsley or not; white pepper or black; cream or no cream. You see where I’m going? The point is to put it all together and make it taste good. How about some fresh roasted corn? Let your passion for cooking be your guide and when you win, the honor belongs to you. Win with my recipe, and the honor is half mine. As for show business, first get plenty of cooking experience and then get a screen test to make sure the camera likes you. Like working as a chef, doing a television show comes with its own challenges and is often times harder than it looks.
For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants
in Monterey, California, click here.

Pisto Home Page  ♦ Current Article  ♦ Index of Articles, Recipes and Subjects