Ask the Chef

April 18, 2007  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Q). I need help. Please tell me why e.v.o.o. is the one to use – not the cheap! I think it has to do with the way to olive is pressed. Looking forward to you column, it should be there every day.
Lois Lee Haller
Seaside, Ca

A). Guess what Lois – I had to ask around to find out what e.v.o.o. is. Turns out, it means extra-virgin olive oil. How about

just calling it “x.v.”? Extra-virgin refers to the first pressing of olives to extract oil, contains no more than 0.8% acidity, and is judged to have a superior taste. It is considered to be the best quality and is therefore the most expensive. The taste depends on many factors, so taste around and see which you prefer. If the oil is very green and peppery, it usually denotes oil from green olives. Golden color usually means more mature olives. To really
confuse you, most if not all oils are blended just like many wines – and like wines, the same oils will differ from year to year. Here’s my philosophy regarding these oils: For general cooking, sautéing and deep-frying, I use virgin olive oil. I only use extra-virgin when I’m making a salad dressing or need to flavor soups, pasta or baked fish. In other words, extra-virgin should be used as a condiment.

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Q). I tried sand dabs for the first time at Domenico’s and they were delicious, light and delicate. What exactly are sand dabs and how do you prepare them?
Kaitlyn M., Marina, Via e-mail

A). Sand Dabs – a real local specialty. The sand dab is a small flatfish (imagine a 6 – 8-inch halibut). Dabs caught by hook and line are the best but hard to come by these days. What we see now are troll-caught. Although not as good they are still very acceptable. Sand dabs have a lot of bones, but the real fish eater knows how to eat them. Unfortunately, most Americans only want filets with no bones. Fish tastes so much better on the bone – just like bone-in steaks. I remember the first time watching my brother-in-law Jean eat the whole fish (bones and all). The secret is to bite with your front teeth so that any bones will be felt  there first. Then all you have

to do is spit them out. Well folks, I talked to one of my suppliers, Monterey Fish Company, and they have whole sand dabs with only the side bones trimmed. All that’s left is the main bone, which is easily removed after cooking. Kaitlyn, I will guarantee that these will taste three times as good as the filets – I promise! Dredge them in well-seasoned flour and grill in a hot pan with butter or olive oil until done – but not overdone. Don’t flip-out if you find a bone – just remember to bite with your front teeth. Tonight on my TV show, you can see me cook a whole fish in Croatia a couple of years ago.

Q). I am having a dinner in honor of my son’s graduation from Auburn University. We live on Mobile Bay (Alabama) and I would like to cook fresh, in-the-shell oysters on a beach fire. Do you know how I could accomplish this task?
Thanks, Pam, Via e-mail

A). Make a mixture of sweet butter, chopped garlic, a little lemon juice, a shot of hot sauce and some grated Romano cheese. Using a grill and tongs, steam open the oysters or clams (they will pop open in a few minutes). Remove from the fire, rip off the top shell and smell each one. If they smell good, use them, if not, throw them away. Add a dollop of the butter mixture and put back on the fire. Let it poach a bit but don’t over cook them (that means shriveled up and dried out). With a bit of practice you will get this down. Also use a Mexican salsa or barbecue sauce - your own or a good quality bottled one. Serve on a plate then throw the shells on the beach for recycling. Now just pair it up with a good crisp white wine and you’ve got it!

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Q). I read and enjoy your column in the Herald. Thanks for the recent eggplant recipe, it sounds very good. I recently attended a convention in Memphis and had an appetizer of hot spinach and artichoke dip. It was absolutely delicious!
Virginia K., Salinas, Via e-mail

A). Thanks Virginia. Of course, we love artichokes around here. By now I must have served over two million chokes at The Whaling Station alone! Try this recipe that I came up with:

Artichoke & Spinach Dip Recipe – makes about 2 ½ cups

1 ½ ounce jar of artichoke hearts
¼ cup of mayonnaise
½ teaspoon grated lemon zest
10 ounce bag of spinach
3 tablespoons of lemon juice
salt and pepper to taste
Tabasco sauce to taste

Chop artichokes in a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Set aside. Wash spinach well. Blanch in boiling water; drain; squeeze dry and chop in food processor. Add chopped artichoke hearts and remaining ingredients and process just until blended. This can be prepared a day in advance, and stored in the fridge. Serve with vegetable sticks or tortilla chips.

Q). I watch your show, here in Columbus, Ohio and learn something everyday. I am one of the many people that have a severe MSG allergy. I was wondering if your special seasoning has any monosodium glutamate in it?
Ron Stauffer
Via e-mail

A). No Sir, our Sensational Seasonings is the real, deal. Plus it is low in salt. Try it on everything – roasts, chops, seafood, vegetables or in a Bloody Mary.

Q). How do you add lemon or lime to a light cream sauce and not have it curdle? I would like a light sauce for salmon.
Cathy Ryerson
Via e-mail

A). May I suggest a bit of horseradish in a reduced heavy cream for salmon - very good.

The secret is to use heavy cream (and not half n half) because it is stabilized. Don’t add too much lemon though, you’d be pushing your luck!


I’ve just tasted the first Monterey Bay Salmon courtesy of Ronnie A. and let me tell you – fat succulent and tender! When it comes to this beautiful fish, don’t over sauce and don’t over cook!

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