Ask the Chef

April 11, 2007  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Anybody noticed Bert Cutino lately? Man does he remind me of Tony Curtis (or is it Robert Wagner?). And Ronny Aliotti too – he’s looking trim. I want you boys to let us in on how you lost the weight. Share what you’re eating or, better yet, share what you’re not eating. Any good recipes to share?

Q). Loved your clam chowder and especially your scallops at the Whaling Station. Could you provide the recipes?
Joy
Via e-mail

A). Sorry can’t give that one out, but try this chowder recipe, it is equally good:

Clam Chowder Recipe
Makes 6 to 8 servings
6 pounds cherrystone clams
3 medium-sized onions, chopped
1 rib of celery (with leaves), cut into 2-inch pieces
1 carrot, peeled and chopped2 bay leaves
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
2 cups water
1/2 cup clam juice
1/2 pound slab bacon, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
8 small white new potatoes, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
2 cups heavy cream
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley

Wash the clams well in cold water and put into a heavy soup pot. Add 1 chopped onion, celery, carrot, and one bay leaf. Add the two cups of water and clam juice. Cover the pot and bring to a boil over high heat.

Cook until the clams open, shaking the pot occasionally. Remove clams from their shells, pouring any remaining broth back into the pot. Cover the clams and set aside. Strain the broth through a fine sieve and set aside. Add the bacon to the pot and cook over low heat until slightly crisp, about 10 minutes. Add the remaining chopped onions, the remaining bay leaf, chopped thyme, and butter. Cook for 15 minutes, stirring, until onions are soft. Add the potatoes and the strained broth. Simmer, partially covered, over medium heat for 12 to 15 minutes or until the potatoes are cooked through. Skim any foam that rises to the surface. Meanwhile, coarsely chop the reserved clams. Add them to the pot along with the cream; simmer over medium heat for 5 to 7 minutes or until the clams are just cooked through. Do not overcook. Season with pepper and stir in the parsley.

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Comment to the Chef: We will be visiting your area next month. I have not had abalone since I was a little girl. My father (now passed) use to dive for abalone and we cooked right on the beach and at home. I would really like to know more about the red abalone. If I remember right, ours was a milky white in color and my father would pound and pound and it was so very tender.
Jennifer Wagner
Via e-mail

Chef Response: Well Jennifer, those surely were the good old days. We now buy our abalone from an abalone farm here in Monterey (Monterey Abalone Farm). Red abs are the true native abalone along with the black abalone. To harvest wild abs now-a-day’s you have to go north of San Francisco and are limited to 2 per day. The farm-raised are much smaller, but a bit more tender.

They don’t get as much exercise as the wild ones do. As for the price well, let’s just say it’s more like filet mignon now.

Q). I recently had a filet mignon at a local restaurant and it tasted like liver. I returned it and got another that was a little better. What happened? I’m confused about the word “Prime” used so often on menus these days. Does it always have to do with the USDA grade called Prime?
Steve Davis
Marina, CA

A). Liver-tasting filet? According to my experts, liver-tasting meat means the animal was improperly dressed. This animal is known as a “dark cutter” and the meat is usually a very deep red. It was either dressed to slow or too late and usually occurs with lesser quality grades of beef, often from dairy cows. The best beef, of course,

comes from a steer. Now, “prime” vs. “USDA Prime.” This can be confusing, much like something labeled “organic” which has only recently been more clearly defined. I believe the meat industry needs to do the same with the word “Prime.” Prime by itself means nothing - it is simply an adjective. However, when used along with “USDA”, it denotes a product that has been inspected and received the highest grade by the United States Department of Agriculture and represents only the top 1-2% of all graded steers. This is the very best beef in the world – period (also some of the most expensive, you get what you pay for, folks). So Stevie, next time you see the word “prime” on a menu, ask to see the USDA stamp or label. Without such proof, it’s just another “prime” example of misrepresentation.

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Readers: Just got a call from my buddy Johnny Rivers. He was excited to tell me that he will be appearing at the Monterey Fairgrounds this Saturday at 8PM, for the first time since he participated in the legendary 1967 Monterey Pop Festival. If you saw him perform at City Hall on this past 4th of  July, I’m sure you’ll agree that he was absolutely outstanding. Man, can that boy sing! In this case it’s a 2-day event raising money for the Gateway Center of Monterey County, a very worthwhile cause. Billed as “The First Annual Monterey Rock and Rod Festival” this brand new event will feature lots of different rock bands and plenty of local hot rods. I had to chuckle remembering the time I invited the very-vegetarian Mr. Rivers to be on my cooking show all about preparing lamb and cow tongues. The look on his face all afternoon was priceless.


Q). Dear John, My husband went out fishing on the bay and brought back a big, beautiful salmon. How about some simple recipes?
Angel M., Monterey
A). How about that! Boy, another salmon season has kicked off. Here’s one of my all-time favorite ways to prepare salmon filet. Start with one salmon filet per person of at least 8 oz. If possible, leave the skin on, it’s delicious and nutritious. Heat an iron skillet or non-stick pan if you prefer. Oil or butter your fish and lightly sprinkle with Sensational Seasoning™ or a blend of salt and pepper, granulated garlic, powdered ginger and onion powder. Place the fish skin-side down in your pan and DON’T TOUCH for at least five to six minutes, then gently turn over and finish cooking for three to four minutes more. Do not overcook – medium is perfect. By then it should have a nice crust, and still be in one piece. Mix some softened butter with fresh garlic and lemon juice and spoon a little on top when serving.
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