Ask the Chef

September 13, 2006  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Q). I saw your show today, here in Utah. You made a seafood soup. I think you called it Caribbean chowder, but I came into the show late and didn’t get the recipe. I’ve never before heard of Monterey, Ca. but some time in the future I would love to take my wife for our anniversary there to eat. In the mean time, can you provide the recipe for the soup? Doug Gordon Via e-mail

A). This is one of my favorites having spent time in many places where coconut milk, curry and lemon grass is combined with seafood (the Caribbean, Thailand, Fiji, etc.). Caribbean chowder

might also include conch, the giant marine snail, but I prefer to make it using squid instead.

Caribbean Chowder Recipe
Serves 4
1 lb. shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 # firm white fish cut into 2-inch cubes
24 whole live clams
24 whole live mussels
1 lb. squid in 1–inch pieces

Open 4 cans of coconut milk (unsweetened) and carefully remove the hard parts of the contents of each can, reserving the cream. Place the hard parts in a 4 quart pot and, using this as an oil, sauté

1 large chopped onion and 1 bunch of finely chopped lemon grass (using only the white part) with 2 tablespoons of red curry paste. Continue to sauté for 10 minutes on medium then add the rest of the coconut milk along with 4 cups of clam juice and the juice of 4 limes and cook covered on medium for 10 minutes. Lower the heat to medium-low and add all of the seafood. Cover and cook until the clams and mussels are opened. Stir gently and don’t overcook (10 - 12 minutes). Finish with sprigs of cilantro and serve with jasmine rice and some cold beer or a crisp, dry rosé.

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Q). I have seen several of your recipes featuring polenta. Can I use grits or cornmeal in place of polenta? Is there a major difference? Jason Forbush Via e-mail

A). Polenta, cornmeal and grits are all variations of the same thing: hulled, dried and ground corn kernels. Polenta is a slightly finer grind than cornmeal, but not by much. For most applications, the two are interchangeable. Both result in a soft, grainy texture when cooked and require less cooking time than grits. Grits have a coarser grind and therefore, a chunkier texture and so it takes a bit longer to cook than polenta or cornmeal. The good news for you, 

Jason, is that polenta has become popular enough that it is available packaged along with easy to follow instructions. Believe me, as seasons change into fall and winter, warm soft polenta, as one of the great Italian comfort foods, is a proven winner topped with your favorite stew or some braised short ribs.

Stand by for a new Cabo Wabo Cocktail. Here’s the deal: Sammy Hagar said if we could invent a new cocktail using his Cabo Wabo Resposato tequila and prickly pear nectar, he would reward us with an autographed guitar. How about a prickly Cabo? Sammy recently endorsed a Red Rocker custom-made chopper (valued in excess of $60,000), to be raffled off to benefit

S.I.D.S. research (Sudden Infant Death Syndrome). Tickets are $10.00 and the bike will be displayed on Monterey’s Fisherman’s Wharf October 6th, 7th & 8th. Contact Margaret D’Arrigo or Steve Martin for more information 753-5416

Just returned from showing French guests around San Francisco. Along the way we stopped to pick up fresh fruit from Andy’s Orchard in Morgan Hill (6 kinds of peaches and 3 kinds of plums). The fruit right now is unbelievable. Then a fast trip to see Toto (Sal) at Sicilia in Bocca Restaurant. Had some stuffed shrooms, tomato mozzarella and pasta with eggplant. That restaurant is a little jewel.

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Q). Please clear up the issue of purchasing fresh fish from local markets. We need to be educated regarding this topic. Please give us the facts. I have purchased fish from various supermarkets in the area and have had such bad luck…awful. Please address this issue of supermarkets versus fish markets. Help is needed. Maxine Pebble Beach

A). Great topic – it really isn’t about supermarkets vs. fish markets, it really is about the quality of the product. We all know that fish is very perishable. The old saying goes: after 3 days fish starts to stink. I’m sure that saying has been around for quite a while. Now adays fish that has been iced as soon as it is caught then delivered to a market that also keeps it iced down properly, can last at least 7 days. How do we know if it’s good? The nose knows. I never buy fish that is wrapped in cellophane and neither should you. These days we have

fish from all over the world. It is caught today and tomorrow you can be serving it. How is it all done? “Proper handling”. Nobody is in business to sell stinky fish. The consumer should be better informed. So what do you do? Smell the fish. If it smells good, go for it. If it doesn’t smell good, don’t buy it. If you have time go and check out Monterey Fish Company (373-3511). See how they handle the product, they have respect for it. Fish is kept iced down and in a refrigerator. Sal or Pete would love to show you around. We are blessed with a lot of good independent fish markets in our area. Talk to the boys, look them in the eye and ask them direct questions like: “Is this fresh?” and “What would you eat tonight”? Give it a try Maxine!

Q). Where do you find gooseberries? What is the best recipe using them? Eleanor Lehaney Via e-mail

A). As I recall, gooseberries are oblong, green and taste pretty good. While Oregon is one of the leading producers of gooseberries, did you know that San Francisco has the climate to grow goose-berries especially in the coolest parts? The most common use is in pie. How about making a chutney served as a condiment with lamb. Here’s one from Gingerich Farms in Canby, Oregon:
Gooseberry Chutney Recipe

3 lb gooseberries 1/2 lb onions 1 lb sugar 1/2 pint water 1/2 oz salt 1 tbsp ground ginger 1/2 tsp cayenne pepper 1 pint vinegar Top and tail the berries, and chop roughly. Chop the onions finely and cook with the berries in the water until they are well softened. Add the other ingredients, and simmer until the chutney becomes thick, stirring occasionally. Bottle while hot and cover immediately. This chutney, yielding about 4.5 lbs becomes more mellow in flavor the longer it is kept.
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