Ask the Chef

September 6, 2006  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Speaking about local fish. Friends Joseph and Gigi are visiting from France, and I talked them into making couscous. We decided to make both the traditional lamb-based couscous and the Italian specialty fish couscous. Fresh whole fish is what we needed and lots of it. Whole fish for the stock and whole fish poached in the stock and served over the couscous with garlic mayonnaise on the side. With help from Geno and Joe Pennisi at Royal Seafood

on the Wharf, I had all the gopher cods and blue fish I needed (20 or so whole fish all expertly cleaned by buddy Ronnie Aliotti). We worked from 10 am to 5 pm nonstop. The recipes were pretty extensive and will be available on my web site, along with more photos. Let me tell you, Joseph and Gigi were so happy to have friends and relatives taste their authentic Algerian cooking. Couscous, a grain (semolina)-based staple, is often referred to as Moroccan, but its origins can be traced to Algeria, Tunisia and Libya. As for Royal Seafood (655-8326), add them to your list of local fresh fish markets. They have their own

drag boats and hook & line day boat fishermen. Right now you’ll find Monterey halibut, rock fish and a full line of live shellfish and crab. The boats go out weekly, depending on weather and quotas, for half-days and return with petrale sole, sand dabs, rock fish, skate, fresh sardines and squid (ask to be put on their call list). Also breaded and pan-ready seafood like salmon (both farmed and wild) and Monterey prawns. With Monterey Abalone Company right next door, you have all of the fresh fish you could ask for. Recently, Trevor at Monterey Abalone sent 20 live abalone to good friend Chef Joho at Everest Restaurant in Chicago. He was blown away – live Monterey abalone in Chicago? Now that’s what I’m talking about!

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Q). Could you please tell me where in the area I can purchase St. Louis-style ribs to barbecue? Also, is there anybody in the area that manufactures a log-burning smoker or barbecue pit?
Jimmie Lassiter
Seaside, Ca

A). When Jimmie says St. Louis-style ribs, he’s talking about ribs that are trimmed of the lower-most portion of the rib, leaving only the center bone. Any butcher could do that for you. As far as a log-burning smoker, I would have to ask you what you are planning to do. This sounds like a large production, so I suggest you talk to Bill or Danny at Monterey Bay Restaurant Equipment in Sand City (899-1422).

Folks, if you remember I told you about local musical genius Johnny Rivers performing a free concert at Monterey’s Colton Hall this past 4th of July. I also told you that I filmed it for Monterey’s Cookin’ and now it’s on (8pm channel 34). If you were among the hundreds

there that day, tune in you might see yourself dancing. What a show, including his most famous hit “Secret Agent Man”.

Reader responds. Dear Chef Pisto, you’re absolutely right about oregano growing like a weed. There’s also marjoram: same genus (Origanum majorana) similarly robust (is that the botanically correct word for “invasive”?) I planted little 2-inch pots of each and they took off.

Different subject: Was reluctant to send this, but in all modesty, it’s really fine.
Shiitake Mushrooms with Fresh Asparagus and Tofu Recipe

Sauté sliced Shiitakes in olive oil in a cast iron skillet. Add cubed tofu and then 1 to 2-inch pieces of asparagus. Then add some white wine and season with garlic, salt, lemon pepper and a dash of cinnamon. Cover and simmer until asparagus is heated but still crunchy.
Ani Frazier
Via e-mail

A). Thanks Ani, always nice to hear from you. Folks, Ani is a regular contributor as is Nancy Mangiapane, who recently shared the best cannoli idea I have heard in years. Well, here’s her famous zucchini bread recipe. Thanks Mrs. M.

Nancy’s Pineapple Zucchini Cake Recipe:
1 cup Mazola oil
3 eggs beaten well
2 cups sugar
2 cups grated zucchini
1 cup carrots grated
3 cups flour
1/4 tsp. nutmeg
2 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp baking powder
1–6oz. crushed pineapple strained
2 tsp vanilla

Beat eggs. Add sugar, oil and vanilla, beating well. Stir in the zucchini and pineapple. Combine flour, spices, baking soda, baking powder and stir to mix. Grease and flour the loaf pans. Bake in a 350-degree oven for 1 hour. Cool and remove from pan.

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Q). Hi Chef John, I love cauliflower how about something different?

Jason Hart, Monterey
Via e-mail

A). Lately I have been roasting a lot of my vegetables. It’s easy, fast and great for large groups. I hope you like it.

1 large head cauliflower, trimmed into florets
1 lb. red potatoes cut into thirds
salt and pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Toss cauliflower florets and potatoes in olive oil, salt and pepper. Place vegetables on a baking sheet in a single layer and roast for 10

minutes. Rotate pan and roast for 10 more minutes. Vegetables are done when you can easily pierce with a fork or a knife. The high-temperature roasting intensifies the flavors of the vegetables in a way that will amaze you.
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