Ask the Chef

October 25, 2006  ...  by Chef John Pisto

It’s time again for the annual chestnut roast and barbecue at the Gianoli Ranch Castagna Harvest Celebration in Yorkville, CA. (Saturday, November 4, 2006 - 10 AM to ?). Folks, this is a lot of fun and a great weekender. Pick your own chestnuts, dance to the Balich Accordions and eat, all for only $20 (kids free). 707-895-2670.

Q). My mother sent me out to buy some little pickles called corni-chons. I had some difficulty finding them and several deli people didn’t know what I was talking about. What is a cornichon?

A). Traditionally served with paté, cornichons are tangy small gherkin pickles, cooked in vinegar and flavored with tarragon. “Cornichon” meaning “little horn” in French is their word for gherkin, named after the tiny, dark green gherkin cucumbers they are made from.

Q). I had a phenomenal dessert at your restaurant called pineapple carpaccio. I love pineapple but have a hard time telling when one is ripe. How do you do it?

A). An easy way to ripen a pineapple is to stand it upside

down on your counter. This will allow the sugars to flow toward the leafy end and distribute evenly. Otherwise it will tend to ferment in the bottom if left standing upright. Your pineapple is ready when its skin is all golden and it emits a strong sweet aroma. Most people think of pineapples as Hawaiian, although they really originated in South America and were reportedly brought back to Europe by Columbus in 1493. Fat-free, saturated fat-free, very low sodium, cholesterol-free and high in vitamin C and manganese.

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Q). Is there a difference between curly leaf and flat leaf parsley?
Kay Smith
Via e-mail

A). You bet there is! The flat leaf that grows at my Mom’s house is real powerful. When she made meat balls, cutlets or cioppino, you really tasted it. The commercial flat leaf is the closest thing to the real stuff while the curly is strictly ornamental.

Q). Do you have a quick recipe for Coq au vin?

A). You mean chicken stewed in wine right? In the old days “coq” refers to an old tough rooster or stewing hens, you know those big, old birds. Nowadays even the big birds are pretty tender so they don’t need that long, slow cooking. This is perfect autumn food. Try using only thighs and legs. Marinade the chicken in red wine over night (you can omit this) I figure 3 pieces of chicken per person.

Coq au Vin Recipe
Four (4) people
4 cups chopped leeks
2 cups julienned carrots

1 lb. small mushrooms
6 garlic cloves chopped
1 cup chicken stock
1/2 bottle dry red or white wine
3 tbsp. chopped fresh thyme

Season the chicken. Flour and fry in butter until brown, remove. After browning the chicken, sauté all vegetables together for 10 minutes. Add wine, scrape the bottom real well. Add the chicken, cover and cook for 30 to 40 minutes or until chicken is tender. That’s it – serve with mashed potatoes that have some fresh chopped parsley and green onions mixed in.

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Q). John, love the column and was particularly interested on the subject of lard. I’m a southern traditionalist who swears by a good cast iron skillet and lard for frying chicken. I’ve just moved to Marina and cannot find a source for fresh lard so wanted to make my own by rendering fatback per your column. However, I can’t find a source for fatback either – help!
Thanks,
Pam
Via e-mail

A). Right on Pam! I called Sergio at Monte Vista Market and he can order it for you (373-3737). Your right about frying chicken in lard (self-rendered), nothing is more delicious.

Old friend Angelo DeMaria (stonemason) has a neat hobby – he makes knives. Finely made handmade cooking knives – that’s what I’m talking about. To find out more e-mail angelodemaria1@mac.com

Dear Chef Pisto. Here’s a little more information on those beautiful "octopus traps" and spot prawn fishing in Monterey. In the early 1920s’, an elder Sicilian fishermen known locally as "Two Pipes" or "Old Man Giannini" began using these baskets to fish for large "spot" prawns in the Monterey Bay. He brought this technology with him from Sicily. "Two Pipes" would ply the waters between Monterey and Carmel. Salting the bay with his baskets, he would weigh them down with rocks and lay them on their side, coming back later in the day, or early the next day, to retrieve them. He was so secretive about where he was fishing, that he would not use floats or markers in fear that other fishermen would discover his fishing grounds. Soon other Monterey fishermen began using these baskets, primarily for large octopus. The fishermen would bait the basket with a live crab tied at the narrow end of the funnel, the idea was that the octopus would swim up the funnel to get to the crab but once there it could not go back down. This type of fishing
became so popular that by the mid-1930s’; Monterey was largest port on the West Coast for the Giant Octopus. They would also catch the large "spot" prawns as a bonus. I have photos of Monterey fishermen with spot prawns taken in 1930. I also have two of the basket traps on exhibit at the Maritime & History Museum.

Sincerely,
Tim Thomas
Museum Historian
Monterey Maritime & History Museum
#5 Custom House Plaza
Monterey, CA 93940
831-372-2608 x17

Chef response: Thanks Tim, I’m sure everyone loves to hear about this kind of stuff. I had a question about the octopus. Who bought them? According to Tim it was the Japanese community. The prawns were just a by-catch. Check out the handmade traps at the Maritime Museum –they are truly works of art.

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