Ask the Chef

October 4, 2006  ...  by Chef John Pisto

This is the weekend – Sammy Hagar’s custom built chopper will be on display at Fisherman’s Wharf and will be auctioned off for charity.

The best and biggest pastrami and corned beef sandwich is coming. These are the real thing, 3 to 4 inches high on great rye bread and guaranteed to make a grown deli sandwich lover cry. Give me two weeks.

Water and spinach served on request. Several months ago I started serving a mixture of spinach and rapini as a side dish with steaks at the Whaling Station, after 30 years of spinach alone. I love the combination of flavors and textures. During the past couple of weeks, with no spinach available, I have been serving a mixture of Swiss chard (a relative of spinach, also known as spinach beet or perpetual spinach) and rapini instead. Now it’s back to spinach, local spinach, and we’re even working on some new recipes utilizing this great product while the healing continues. To refresh our

memory, check out these nutritional value figures on spinach. A 100-gram serving contains the recommended daily amounts of: Vitamin C 47%; Vitamin E 13%; Vitamin K 460%; Calcium 10% and Iron 22%. Let’s get going with my buddy Bobby V’s recipe for spinach soufflé: P.S. If it doesn’t puff up, save it and make a sandwich out of it with a little mustard.
Van der Woude’s Spinach Soufflé Recipe
Serves 6-8 (I doubled the original recipe and had extra)
5 T butter
1/4 Cups all-purpose flour
1 Cup milk
3 T heavy cream
5 eggs (separated)
1 1/4 lb. Spinach
2 Shallots, diced
1 clove Garlic, diced
4 t. Butter
4 oz. garlic chives, coarsely chopped
Salt, freshly ground white pepper, butter and bread crumbs for the ramekin dishes (one dish per person). Cream of tartar for egg whites.

Make a Béchamel sauce: Melt the 5T butter and stir in the flour.

Cook, stirring constantly for 2 minutes. Gradually stir in the milk and simmer the sauce for 15 minutes. Add the cream and bring to a boil. Cool slightly and stir in the beaten egg yolks, a little at a time. Season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and cool. To keep from developing a film on top, place Saran wrap directly on top of the liquid mixture. Prepare the soufflé mixture: Rinse and blanch the spinach. Wrap the blanched spinach in a dishcloth or piece of heavy cheesecloth and wring out thoroughly with your hands. Finely chop the spinach. Sauté the diced shallots and garlic with the spinach in melted butter. Place in a large bowl and stir in the béchamel sauce and garlic chives. Whisk the egg whites to stiff peaks (add salt and cream of tartar). Fold egg whites into the soufflé base with a wooden spoon or rubber spatula. Bake the soufflé: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease ramekin dishes (approx. 4' in diameter) with butter and coat with breadcrumbs. Fill the dishes to about 1/8 inch below the top with the spinach mixture. Bake for 20 minutes in a water bath.

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Q). John, just a quick question regarding tomato puree. What is it and where do I get it? It seems as though so many of my recipes call for puree and I haven't the vaguest idea where to get it or frankly what it is other than the juice that comes with canned tomatoes. Thanks for your wonderful column by the way. It is always interesting.
Sue Passanisi
Pacific Grove, Via e-mail

A). Let’s talk about tomato puree, tomato paste and tomato sauce. 1. Puree refers to tomatoes that have been cooked briefly then strained resulting in a thick liquid. 2. Tomato Paste is tomatoes that have been cooked for several hours then strained and reduced (through cooking) to a very thick rich concentrate. 3. Tomato Sauce is a somewhat thinner tomato puree. It may include other flavorings and seasonings and can be used as a base for other sauces or used in other dishes.

Q). Ha! Never have I seen it in writing before your column on Wednesday! My uncle, who is 92 and lives here, reminisces about his Sunday morning breakfasts that his Swedish mother used to make for him. Finnan Haddie with heavy cream. He wants to taste it again before he dies! Where can I get some of this dried haddock? Do you still serve it in your restaurant? You mentioned that you used to make a chowder with smoked haddock at the Whaling Station. "Used to" sounds like you don't anymore. Thanks for any tips you might offer in this regard.
Nina & Uncle Stan, Via e-mail

A). We don’t serve it in the restaurants mainly because nobody knows what it is. Buster at Monterey Fish 375-3511 can order some for you and there is a minimum order of a 15lb. box. It will be frozen and you pull out just enough for your dinner (or breakfast). Sounds like you can cook for your uncle 4 or 5 times. Try it poached in milk and baked with potatoes and onions or just plain grilled. Come to think about it,

 I just might order some for myself.

Sugar Plums – Grove Market has the real thing, about the size of an almond (in the shell). When you bite into them they are hard and crunchy. I remember my Uncle Tom bringing these little babies back from the farms in the old days. My uncle would sell fresh fish to all the Portuguese, Spanish and Italian farmers, ranchers and dairymen in Hollister and other places inland. I couldn’t wait for him to bring those sweet plums back. That’s the good news, possibly better news (or not) – these potent little guys will start a rumble in the jungle. I mean roars come from your guts. If you desire to eat them – just stay close to home or a bathroom!

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Letter sent: Dear John, I read your column every Wednesday and was pleasantly surprised to read you talking about my long-gone friend, Mr. Gianinni. When I first thought of starting an Aquarium (on Fisherman’s Wharf in the 1950’s), I was introduced to Mr. Gianinni and went fishing with him many times. Always to about the same place, opposite Midway Point in the Del Monte Forest. He usually had traps 'down' and we would pull them up, by winding the line around a hub a time or two and holding it firm. The turning hub pulled up the traps. They went into the back of his boat, we opened them up and took out the octopus or shrimp or even fish, from time to time. Then they were re-baited and the string went down again. He was very successful, and I enjoyed the relationship. PLUS, I got all of the octopus I needed for the Aquarium. We usually had several on display at a time. A few times I went to his house and
watched him repair the traps. I don't know how many he had, as some seemed to be in the water all the time. But I think it would be under say, 200 each. The were tied into strings of 8 or 10 traps to a set. As far as I can recall, he was the only fisherman working at the shrimp or

octopus. He gave me several traps and the photographs included here are of one I still keep in my backyard. I have had it since perhaps 1955 or a bit later. I did enjoy your article and always check what you write about every Wednesday. Great Work.
Bill Hyler, Pebble Beach

Response: Bill had the first aquarium in Monterey on Fisherman’s Wharf. Monterey Bay prawns have been caught around here at least since 1955, maybe earlier.

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