, 2006 Ask the Chef Article

Q). We were recently in England and were served a vegetable dish called “calve nero”. Ever heard of it? Also, is July or August a better time to visit Monterey? Thanks and we sure enjoy your show!

A). Cavalo Nero is Tuscan kale and you can find some at our local farmer’s market... Also called black kale, Lacinato kale or dinosaur kale it is a member of the brassica family which hails from Tuscany where it was developed in the 18th century. To use, remove the center ribs from all but the smallest leaves then blanch the leaves for 3-4 minutes. Cool and then squeeze out the water and sauté them with garlic and olive oil. This is a very hearty green and pairs well with rich dishes of pastas, beans or pork. Usually it’s used in a Tuscan dish called ribollita, a whitish colored soup. Ribollita literally means twice-boiled. This hearty dish is

the product of poorer days in Italy, a dish made by adding leftovers, including stale bread, cannellini beans, potatoes, and greens to a large pot and allowing the flavors to meld slowly together. Overall, a wonderfully authentic Tuscan recipe for a truly delicious winter comfort soup.

Ribollita Recipe
1 whole leek chopped
1 onion chopped
1/3 cup olive oil
1 small Savoy cabbage chopped
1/2 bunch black kale (prepared as above and chopped)
6 small tomatoes chopped
2 cups pureed white beans
6 slices Italian bread
olive oil
salt and pepper

Saute the leeks and onions in olive oil and then add the carrots, cabbage, kale, and salt and pepper. When well sweated, add the

pureed beans and tomatoes, and season with salt and pepper. Add water to get the appropriate consistency (it should be thick). Gently boil for 1-2 hours. Again, ribollita means twice-boiled, so what you have to do before serving it is to cool it in the fridge overnight, and then the next day bring it to a boil and taste for seasoning. Then you cut up your Italian bread; if it is day-old so much the better, and put it in the soup tureen. Pour in the soup, and let it sit for a few minutes. If you want some meat in the soup, add an Italian sausage or smoked meat while the soup is simmering.

The best time to visit our peninsula? In my opinion, avoid the summer crowds and stick with the spring or fall seasons. Not only is it less crowded, there is a lot less fog.

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Q). I picked up some fresh chestnuts and kept them spread out on a sheet pan as you suggested. I’ve always wanted to make my own chestnut stuffing, can you help me out?

Also, a lot of people have told me not to stuff the bird, what do you recommend?

Mrs. Mason
Marina
Via e-mail

A). Stuffing the bird can be hazardous to your health. In order to be safe, you must monitor the interior temperature so that it gets above 140 degrees for a while. But, why bother? Just cook your stuffing in a baking dish. It will be

easier to serve and there will be more of that fabulous crust. As for the chestnut stuffing – can’t you just smell it? This recipe makes about 10 cups.

Chestnut Stuffing Recipe
One pound of peeled chestnuts (peeling them take some time, but it’s worth the work).
3 chopped celery stalks with leaves
1 large chopped onion
1 large sourdough bread (about one pound) cut into cubes and dried overnight
8 T. of butter
1/4 cup chopped Italian parsley
3 cups of chicken stock

Score each chestnut and either bake in a 400 degree oven until they split or boil them (my new

favorite way), and then toast for a while in the oven. Set aside and keep them warm. Before chopping the chestnuts, clean them up a bit with a paring knife. Be sure to remove any remaining outer skin. I prefer to chop them into large pieces. Melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat and sauté the onions and celery about 10 minutes. Empty the skillet into a large mixing bowl and add the cubed bread, parsley and enough chicken stock to make it moist – 2 or 2 ½ cups. Finally, mix in the chestnuts and add salt and pepper to taste. Place in a buttered baking dish, drizzle on the remaining chicken stock and bake for about 45 minutes. If you still need chestnuts, let me know.

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Q). Do you have any special Thanksgiving memories that you would like to share?
Susan H.
Via e-mail

A). Thanksgiving is a special time for me today as it was when I was growing up. It is a time that we can all share in the making of a special meal. A day of feasting and being thankful for what we have and who we know. It is a time to carry on family traditions and make new ones to pass along. I think that Thanksgiving Day is the perfect day for a potluck. When I was a kid, the preparations for the

feast began the night before. Theraviolis were carefully prepared from scratch by the ladies while the men made sausage. The Thanksgiving meal was an all day affair. Appetizers of salted anchovies, salted salmon and homemade olives were set out. After some visiting and grazing on our appetites, the raviolis were brought out. Of course, we had the traditional roasted turkey and another favorite - sweet fennel served raw. Homemade cannoli, roasted chestnuts and pumpkin pie finished the meal. We always ate so many raviolis that there was no room for the turkey. This was fine

because later in the evening we grilled the sausages and made turkey and sausage sandwiches, while continuing to visit long into the evening. My advice for a pleasant Thanksgiving depends on your role. If you’re the cook (bless you), don’t expect perfection. Try to have fun and focus on passing along your traditions to the younger generations, or the simple pleasure of a shared special meal. If you’re not the cook, heap on the praise along with the mashed potatoes and help clean up. Happy Thanksgiving everyone!