Ask the Chef

March 1, 2006  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Last week, we filmed two shows all about foie gras, featuring Michael Ginor, co-founder of Hudson Valley Farms in New York and author of Foie Gras a Passion. Foie gras, which translates to "fat liver", is a wonderful product that gets a lot of negative press. The ancient Egyptians were quite fond of foie gras as were the ancient Romans. There is a bit of controversy about the way the birds are fed (food police and animal rights people). Please no nastiness on this one, just accept this as a pure food practice. In the wild, geese and ducks have the ability to gorge themselves before heading south

and at Hudson Valley Farms, they feed their ducks pure corn every two hours. The beauty of Hudson Valley is they use everything but the quack. Usually foie gras is thought of as goose liver, but the liver of a specific type of duck - the Moulard - holds up better for cooking as it renders its fat at a higher temperature. As Michael Ginor says, "otherwise you cook out all of the gras and all that's left is the foie." The Moulard duck breasts are not only prized for roasting but are even made into pastrami and served very thinly sliced - delicious. The legs are made into classic confit. Salted and simmered in duck fat for hours, the legs are stored in the fat until ready to use in cassoulet,

shredded over a salad or whole under sautéed cabbage. This is old-world comfort food at its best. The liver is either made into a terrine or sautéed and served as an appetizer or on top of a grilled steak. I know I'm leaving myself open for nutritionists and animal rights activists, but I happen to love good food, including butter, thick prime steaks and foie gras. My God folks, it's just food. Try it for yourself, either at The Whaling Station where I'm serving it as an appetizer or on top of any steak or fish, or by ordering some direct from Hudson Valley Farms, www.hudsonvalleyfoiegras.com. Either way, this is the finest quality you will ever see.

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Q). Dear John Pisto,
I've heard of "Woofy Biscuits" for dogs and wondered if any human had taste tested these organic homemade delicacies. Please advise me of any recipes you recommend for my dear dog and doggy friends.
Stalee
Via E-mail

A). Recently, I needed a snack and hit my wife's refrigerator (we have two refrigerators and two kitchens - it's a long story). Anyway, I got the nibbles, peaked in and saw some biscuits. I thought the container read

 "whoopee biscuits". Hmm, must have a little rum flavor or something. So I tried one, and they were terrible. I checked the label again and this time put on my glasses. Uh oh, it was a woofy biscuit and I thought - what the ___ is this? It turned out to be a present to our dog Alfie from Stalee Vander Woude, who recently got a dog the size of a coffee cup. Okay, here's a moral to the story - be careful poking around in other people's refrigerators and always wear your glasses when reading labels. It could have been worse - it could have been a doggy pate.

Q). On tonight's show, you made a seafood stew with fish, shrimp, clams and mussels. You used a coconut milk in the stew. We are not fans of coconut milk. Could you use another type of liquid? The rest of the recipe sounds fantastic.
Thank you, Jack
Via e-mail

A). You really should try it with the coconut milk. Hawaiians and other South Pacific people have been using it since the white guys were still grunting at each other. If you really just can't bring yourself to use it, try fish stock or clam juice diluted 30% with white wine.

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Q). I used to live in Monterey when I was attending the Naval Postgraduate School in 1995. My husband and I frequented The Whaling Station Inn and still remember some of our best meals came from there. Currently, I am in Chantilly, Virginia and can catch your show on one of the cable channels. I also have your cookbook and have tried almost every recipe. The one recipe not included in the book is the one for your brown sauce (I particularly remember it served over wild boar ravioli...yum!). Since the chances are slim I'll get back to your restaurant (and you don't have one in Washington, DC), is there any way I can get the recipe for your brown sauce?
Karla Fears CDR,USN (ret.)
Via e-mail

A). Wild Boar Stew Recipe This serves 4 people. Make a stew out of the boar, beef or pork. For example: simply marinate 4 lbs. of wild boar (cut in 2" cubes) in red wine over night.
Roll in seasoned flour, brown well and remove. Add 4 tablespoons of chopped garlic, 2 medium chopped onions, 1/2 head chopped celery, dried chestnuts (soak first for 2 hours). Sauté slowly until soft about 20 minutes and then add chicken stock (enough to cover 1" over the meat), 1/2 cup grappa and 2 tablespoons tomato paste. Cover and cook for 1 1/2 hrs. or until the meat is very tender. Use the meat for the ravioli adding some dried spices and strain some of the stock for the raviolis and serve the stew for a 2nd course.

Q). Dear Chef, I came across a recipe that calls for chervil. I think it's a spice. I looked through rows and rows of spices at the market, but couldn't find it. What is it? Do you know where I can find it?
Enna
Via e-mail

A). Chervil or (anthriscus cerefolium) is a member of the parsley and carrot family. It is available here,

however many people don't know it. Europeans use it a lot especially the French. It's easy to grow and the flavors resemble caraway seeds - sweet and grassy with a touch of licorice. Chervil is very versatile. Good in salads, compound butters, dressing, stews or egg dishes. You can order from Del Monte Produce it takes a day or two and the price is comparable to parsley. Chervil Pesto - a tangy alternative to basil pesto and also simple to make, this is especially good spread on fish hot off the barbecue. Also tasty mixed in with goat cheese or cream cheese for an appetizer spread.
Chervil Pesto Recipe
1 cup fresh chervil, 1/4 cup Romano/Pecorino cheese, 1/4 cup toasted pine nuts, 3 Tbsp olive oil, 1 clove garlic, crushed. Combine all the ingredients in a food processor until well chopped and blended. Best used right away, but it can be kept for a few days.

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