Ask the Chef

June 28, 2006  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Last week I took a road trip with #4 daughter, Gia, a recent graduate of Lewis and Clark College in Portland, Oregon. Starting off in Denver we passed through Wyoming, Montana, Alberta, Idaho, Washington and back to Portland. Along the way we encountered local food trends such as bison with potatoes and frozen vegetables. A rep from Salinas Valley needs to see this, folks. In Portland, a restaurant was serving wild Copper River salmon at $43 a plate. $43? Now that’s what I call wild. Should I order some for my restaurants? Also noticed that ever since the movie Brokeback Mountain, the cowboys are wearing baggy jeans and sit at least two feet apart at all times. The real highlight was the opportunity of getting to know my wonderful daughter on a one-to-one. Hey Gia, how about crossing the U.S. next time? I’m ready when you are!

Dandy Yankee Noodles? When “Secret Agent Man” Johnny Rivers

performs a live free concert at Colton Hall next week on July 4th, I’ll be on hand filming an episode for Monterey’s Cookin’ Pisto Style. Can you believe it?

Q). Sunday afternoon I saw you at Del Monte Produce buying up all of the spaghetti squash. What’s up with that? Milton, Via e-mail

A). Come on Miltie, you could at least have said hello. To tell the truth, I have rediscovered this fantastic, versatile vegetable. It just so happened that I had a spaghetti squash sitting on my counter at home for about 6 months, when I was overcome by an overwhelming urge for pasta with red sauce. I’m on a low carb diet so, feeling inspired by my squash, I stabbed it with a skewer 10 or 12 times and put it in a 350-degree oven for 35 minutes until medium-soft to the touch. While the squash was cooking, I made a marinara with garlic, onions, lots of crushed red pepper and a hand full of fresh basil.

Grated some fresh Romano cheese and waited by the stove. Bell rings and I’m on it like an eagle on a trout. Cut, seed and scrape out with a fork right into the sauce. Just as the name implies, the spaghetti squash flesh comes out like strands of pasta. Toss in the sauce and plated it up – wife standing by, fork in hand. Sprinkle with the grated cheese and go for it! Oh my God – it’s almost like al dente linguine. More cheese, more squash – unbelievable – and no guilt the next day. Needing more squash I headed for Monte Vista Market – they’re out. Del Monte Produce had 5 left – bought them all. Sunday night was spaghetti squash with pesto – another winner. My wife loved it, the dog loved it. Tonight it’s spaghetti squash with meat sauce, tomorrow it’s Bolognese, Carbonara, Alfredo and who knows – the sky’s the limit. Remember this most important part – don’t over cook the squash. Just until slightly soft, similar to a perfect avocado.

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Q). I love your column! I have had to start a new file of just your recipes and advice in my vast recipe collection! I do have a question for you. I seem to be having trouble cooking pork chops and having them come out tender. I have recently used two different recipes, one with a tomato base and the other a barbecue-sauced concoction using vinegar and ketchup. The chops I am using are the ones one can get from Costco -- boneless loin chops about 1 to 1 1/2 inch thick. I have cooked the meat for the required time, but they come out tough. Usually for the one recipe with the canned tomatoes (which I have made often), the chops are fork tender, but this last time they were not. The first recipe is cooked in the oven, the other on top of the stove. Can you please advise me as to what is my problem?? Am I using
the wrong type of meat, or should I be cooking for less time (or maybe more time)?? Or should I cut the chops in half to make thinner pieces?? I appreciate you assistance with this dilemma. Stephanie Lawrence
Monterey, Via e-mail

PS: We very much enjoy your restaurants here on the Peninsula, especially Whaling Station and Blue Moon.

A). Thank you folks! Let’s start at the beginning. Standard pork has been produced to have less fat! Fat = flavorful and juicy pork. To have a real good pork chop you have to start with old-fashioned fatty pork chops. Ask your butcher for Berkshire Brand pork chops – it has fat! And don’t overcook them. It’s ok to eat it medium to medium well. Pork chops fried in a cast iron

pan with just some salt and pepper with a little olive oil. Cook to desired doneness. Remove the chops from the pan and add some chopped onions, some chopped bacon, and brown well. Add some chicken stock and a little milk. Let simmer, pour over the chops and watch out!

Q). I have a bay leaf plant in my yard. When making a soup, stew, sauce, etc. and the recipe calls for a bay leaf, is it okay to use a “fresh” bay leaf? Thanks for your column in the Herald. Richard de Lorimier Letter sent in P.S. The deer in our neighborhood love bay leaves; I covered my plant with mesh.

A). Be careful and make sure it is not medicinal and is the real stuff. Our local leaf is pretty strong. However, I use it very sparingly.

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Q). Could you share the recipe for the paella that had lobster, chicken, sausage, bell peppers, garlic, rice, etc.

A). Ok you asked for it – the perfect party dish! Don’t forget tapas, Serrano ham, and some ice-cold sangria.

Paella Recipe (serves 4)
1/8 cup of extra-virgin olive oil
1 chopped medium onion
4 chopped cloves of garlic
3-5 T. minced fresh parsley
1 t. saffron
1 T. Spanish paprika
2 T. of chicken bouillon
3 skinless chicken breasts, cut into strips

1 red bell pepper roasted, skinned and sliced
1 chopped ripe tomato
1 cup of rice
1/2 cup Spanish dry sherry
1/2 cup frozen peas
3 cups white fish stock mild
salt and pepper
lobster tail cut lengthwise
1/2 lb. - 1 lb. shrimp, peeled & deveined
1 lb. scallops
1/2 lb. Spanish chorizo

Sauté onions, parsley, and garlic in olive oil until the onions begin to become transparent. Add chicken and fry until golden (remove set aside). Add chorizo to the pan and cook for about 10 minutes. Add

shrimp, lobster and scallops and sauté for about 3 minutes (remove set aside with the chicken). Add the rice and stir coating well with the oil. Stir in the stock, wine, peas, saffron, paprika, chicken bouillon, roasted pepper, tomato and bring to boil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Boil 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the shrimp, lobster, scallops, chorizo and chicken and boil for an additional 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Simmer 10 minutes covered, stirring occasionally. If the rice appears to be getting too dry during the last 10 minutes, add some water. If the rice has too much moisture, uncover and evaporate the liquid.
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