Ask the Chef

June 21, 2006  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Reader responds: Years ago, I read somewhere that if one uses a paper coffee filter in the bottom of a cast iron pot, there won’t be any rust. I have several nesting cast iron fry pans and I have used these filters for years and, yup, no rust! Ditto for my Dutch oven… Mary, Carmel Highlands,
Via e-mail

Thank you Mary, you have made many people happy today. Not only will coffee filters absorb moisture, preventing rust in your cast iron, I did some research and found some other uses for paper coffee filters. Good quality coffee filters are made from 100% virgin paper so they are great for polishing your eye glasses, TV screen and mirrors, leaving no lint

behind. You can also filter cooking oil or line a plant pot to prevent soil from leaking out during watering.

And another response: I, too, was hesitant to serve a dessert that has uncooked egg whites, even though the eggs went from the refrigerator to the mixer and then into the freezer. Finally, I tried pasteurized egg whites that are available at any store. We could not tell the difference in texture or taste. So now my conscience is clear, no more worries about salmonella.
Marikay Morris
Via e-mail

Just goes to show that there is always something new to learn. The USDA has plenty to say about the handling of eggs. It is important to understand that while eggs can be part of a healthy diet, they are perishable just like raw meat, poultry, and fish. To be safe, they must be properly refrigerated and cooked. Salmonella is most likely found in the yolk, but its presence in the white can’t be ruled out. Those most vulnerable are people with general health problems, the very young, senior citizens or pregnant women. One important tip is to take eggs straight home and store them immediately in the refrigerator at 40°F or slightly below. Store them in the grocery carton in the coldest part of the refrigerator and not in the door.

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Q). Regarding last week’s column and “roasted grass”: Are you sure that’s legal? Ani Frazier Via e-mail

A). You got me again Ani! Allow me to clarify. People in the industry call asparagus “grass”; apricots “cots”; bell peppers “bells”; spiny lobsters “bugs”; rock fish “cod” or “snapper”; rapini “rabe”; oysters “wild Viagra”, etc., etc. I also received several requests for the meaning of “chef slobatz” as I used to describe my buddy Ronny A. Don’t bother with your Italian/Sicilian dictionary, I made it up to refer to someone who needs two people to clean up after him (or her), which includes me.

Q). Don Giovanni, I loved your article about truth in advertising regarding fruit stands and your quest for “ripe” apricots. Hope you found some juicy cots.

Here’s a question in the same vein. I went to a pizza parlor in Carmel. The menu said “Authentic Sicilian Thick Crust Pizza”. The pizza I tried in Taormina, Sicily was light and thin crusted. Can I count on you to tell me what is truly “authentic Sicilian”?
Stefano di Marina
Via e-mail

A). Great question Stevie-Boy. There are two kinds of pizza in Sicily: The thin one is the one you find when you go to the pizzeria, which by the way is quite popular in the summer when nobody wants to cook. The whole family goes down to the shore and orders individual pizzas. The thick one is ordered if you have a group over for a baptism or celebration of some kind. These are presented on large sheet pans and the dough is usually 3/4” thick with any variation of toppings you want. There is also the “Sfincione” a variety of pizza with ingredients incorporated into the dough, instead of just placed on top. This variety of pizza originates from Palermo. An authentic recipe uses neither cheese nor anchovies.

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Q). I found some great grilling ideas on your web site. Anything new for this season?
Jim J. Carmel Valley
Via e-mail

A). Jimmy, would you believe grilled tomatoes? Folks, today is the first day of summer and along with barbecue, it’s also time for tomatoes. Not the hard, tasteless red baseballs that made most people think that they didn’t like tomatoes. I’m talking sweet, juicy, vine-ripened beauties bursting with flavor - truly one of the world’s best food items.

Grilled Tomatoes with Herbed Crème Fraîche Recipe
1/2 cup sour cream
1 T. each chopped fresh
tarragon, parsley and chives
2 T. buttermilk or milk
1 t. Dijon mustard
2 ripe red tomatoes (like beefsteaks) cored and halved
1/2 t. anchovy paste
juice of 1/2 a lemon
salt, white pepper
cayenne pepper to taste
2 T. olive oil
Preheat grill to high. Blend sour cream, buttermilk, mustard, anchovy paste, lemon juice, salt, pepper and cayenne in a bowl. Stir in herbs and let stand at least 10 minutes for flavors to intensify. Cut tomatoes in half through their “equators”. On the cut sides drizzle with olive oil, then season with salt and pepper. Grill tomatoes, cut side down, until softened and slightly charred, 8-10 minutes. Carefully remove from the grill and serve warm with a dollop of crème fraîche. One final tip: If you are making a salsa, try grilling your tomatoes, onions and jalapeños first. You’ll shout, “Ole!”
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