Q). Chef, are there any good sources for morel mushrooms? Fresh, I mean. I never see them at any of the places I shop (Whole Foods, Grove Market, Nob Hill). Also, I've only seen chanterelles that were worth buying a few times this season. Any comments?  Charles Lee, Pacific Grove, Via e-mail

A). Morels don't appear until spring. If you want to buy wild mushrooms, call me and I will give you a number for a commer-cial supplier. You must, however, buy a minimum of $200 worth. Available right now are Boletes, Black Trumpets, Chanterelles, Hedge Hogs and Matsutakes. By the way, right now the rain is killing the mushroom harvest in Northern California.

Folks, do you think there might be any connection between the dwindling flock of geese at Lake El Estero and the unfortunate homeless hanging out nearby? Those guys are looking pretty content.

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There is a mushroom class in Santa Cruz with David Arora on Saturday, January 21st, $70.00 per person. Call (707) 884-3457 or e-mail maxfun@cruzio.com

Chef Jack Czarnecki, of the Joel Palmer House restaurant in Dayton, Oregon, and wife Heidi (who is a local) came to visit. They arrived bringing gifts of white and black Oregon truffles. Man, oh man, were they good. I have attempted to offer them at the Whaling Station, but unfortunately not too many people seemed interested. I once offered to slice truffles over any dish for $5.00 - (Wow!) - not too many takers. Over the years, I have brought back tastes and ideas from all over the world and have tried to share with everyone. Most of the time it just doesn't fly. I guess it's like the old advice "don't be a pioneer" (remember what happened to them?). But anyway,

Now that's what I call lunch! Jack told me it was his brother that got world-renowned expert David Arora interested in shrooms while going to school in South Carolina. Jack's father was also passionate about mushrooms in Pennsylvania, where his "Joe's Restaurant" specialized in wild mushrooms. If you're in the neighborhood of Dayton, Oregon, Jack's restaurant is worth a visit, especially if you happen to be a truffle and wild mushroom fan - you will think you have gone to heaven! Also, check out the Internet for Jack's several other published works dealing with mushrooms, including one exclusively about cooking with portabellas.

Q). Dear John, Kudos to you for making it possible for seniors and other locals to have a fine meal at one of your restaurants! We have participated in your "locals" day several times. The food is great, the service excellent and I appreciate having lovely clean linens on the table. We were at Abalonetti's, in case you may be wondering.
Gratefully, Alice and Web

P.S. Todd Fisher is our grandson and I learned in your column how much was made at the Gala at the Aquarium!

Thanks Alice. The hurricane relief fund-raiser was a blast. As for the local 's program, I've heard you, folks and $9.95 dining is back this week, exclusively at Abalonetti and Domenico's. Back by popular demand, that is. You can select from a list of entrees, and if you want, have a salad or bowl of chowder for just $2.95 additional. Now that's a deal!

amount of the milk mixture (2-3 tablespoons) into the eggs yolks, whisking vigorously. Slowly add the remaining egg yolks back into the hot milk mixture, whisking continuously. Pour into individual Corning ware or Pyrex serving dishes or custard cups. Place on a deep baking sheet filled with hot water in center rack of oven. The level of the water should be the same as the level of custard in the dishes. This helps protect the sides from the direct heat, allowing for even cooking. Bake 15-20 minutes or until center is nearly set. Remove from oven and, leaving in the water bath, allow to cool to room temperature, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least two hours or up to two days. To serve, sprinkle heavily with a layer of coarsely granulated sugar. Using a small torch, apply heat directly to surface of custard until a browned sugar layer forms. (Note: this step may also be performed directly under the flames of a gas broiler, but the results may not be so dramatic). Brown sugar can also be used.