Ask the Chef

February 22, 2006  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Q). I have just finished reading your column in the Herald and it made me homesick. I do like greens and fresh greens are really hard to find in grocery stores and local restaurants. Can you tell me which of your restaurants cook and serve the greens you describe?
Helen Presti
Carmel Valley, Via e-mail

A). When you crave wild greens like I do, there's only one way to go. Put on an old pair of shoes, grab some bags and get out to the fields. Collecting and eating wild greens is much more common in Europe than in America, although they can provide some interesting and incredibly nourishing dining. First, like wild mushrooms, you have to get to know them. Get yourself a field guide and maybe start with some dandelions or mustard greens. Also, finding your own food outdoors with friends and

family members improves your appetite. As far as my restaurants, I use mainly mixtures of spinach, Swiss chard and arugula for sautéing. Coming up with different combinations of greens, cooked up with some olive oil and garlic, is fun and delicious. But, Helen, if you can't get out there, check in with wholesaler and retailer, Del Monte Produce (375-5800). Ask for Jeanie and she will special order whatever you want.

Q). Hello John, I have recently retired and suddenly become the family chef. I was asked to prepare gumbo for a Mardi Gras gathering. I will most likely check out several recipes but want some practical advice from a pro. Please let me know if there are any for sure "do's or don'ts" for this dish.
Bob Spadoni, Via e-mail

A). Gumbo is one our great American classic dishes and many times I have enjoyed preparing and

sharing it. I have also experienced real masters of this style of cooking and picked up tips that can really elevate your gumbo. First add an extra 25% of the onions, bell peppers and celery and sauté them well. When you brown the roux, do it slowly, you want it to be dark brown. Don't put too many main ingredients in the gumbo. Limit yourself to three things - shrimp, sausage and chicken. Don't overcook the rice as its texture is an important part of the finished dish. One sometimes overlooked "do" is to add okra (either fresh or frozen). It acts as a thickening agent and no gumbo is complete with out it. Finally, serve along with fresh oysters on the 1/2 shell with ketchup and horseradish and some Dixie beer. You can also make a couple of muffulettas, some bread pudding, fry up a few oysters and let the good times roll!

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Folks, I was scanning the paper recently and came across an ad for a pizza store that advertised using 3 types of real cheese. Real cheese? How about unreal cheese? What else is being used? These thoughts should be puzzling for any Italian.

Q). Many years ago, I can remember visiting my Sicilian grandmother who made the most amazing beef and vegetable soup. The beef was so tender, it fell off the bone and melted in my mouth. Do you have a good recipe for an

old-world soup like this - one that is perfect for a cold winter's day?
A Big Fan, Laguna Beach, CA,
Via e-mail

A).
Ah, now your talking! The meat to use is short ribs - medium size or beef shanks, sliced about 3/4 of an inch thick. If using short ribs, trim off all of the fat. Ready? Here we go:
Beef and Vegetable Soup
Sauté the meat in some olive oil; season with salt and pepper to taste. Add water or beef stock to cover meat plus another inch or so. Cover with a lid and simmer for

about an hour. Skim off the foam and any floating stuff. When the meat is almost cooked, add vegetables (as many of whatever you like). You may want to sauté the vegetables a bit first - this will add more dimension to the soup. Simmer until the vegetables are done and then, if you wish, now would be the time to add some pastina or linguine broken into one-inch pieces. Ladle into bowls, add some freshly grated Reggiano and serve with some good garlic bread and a salad.

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Q). You made me so hungry when I read about your fried chicken and potato salad. I searched but couldn't find these recipes on your website or in your cookbooks. Please tell me how I can get a copy!
Via e-mail

A). Here's the low down -
Fried Chicken Recipe
Only use small chickens (fryers 2 ½ to 3 lbs). I only use thighs and legs as these parts have the most flavor. Wash well and do not dry. Season with salt and pepper and then roll in flour highly seasoned with salt, pepper, sage, onion powder, garlic powder and cayenne pepper. Heat 3" of oil in large pot or cast iron skillet to 350 degrees and start frying. Don't put
too many pieces in at once. Cook approximately 12 to 15 minutes. You'll know they are cooked when they stop sizzling. Drain on paper towel and repeat, while resisting the urge to try some before you're finished. Just to keep you hungry, I'll get to the potato salad next week.

Q).
I am looking for a perfect winter dessert. Ideally, it would be simple to prepare yet elegant.
J. White
Moss Landing
Via e-mail

A). Here's a good one that makes for a great presentation. Poached Pears in Red Wine Recipe
You'll need four or five slightly under ripe pears (I like the Bosc variety), one orange, some ground

cinnamon, 2/3 cup of sugar and a bottle of good red wine. Cut the pears in two lengthwise, core and peel them and arrange in the bottom of an earthenware, or enameled ironware terrine if they are to be cooked in the oven. Pyrex will do as well. Wash the orange well and shave in a long spiral from the peel, keeping clear of the bitter, white material, using a potato peeler. Add to the pears, sprinkle lightly with cinnamon, add the sugar and wine and bring to a boil, finally leaving, covered, to simmer for about 2 hours, or until they are coated in a thin syrup. Serve warm accompanied by some simple cookies, a drizzle of the syrup and some sprigs of fresh mint.

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