Ask the Chef

December 20, 2006  ...  by Chef John Pisto

More on New Zealand. During my three-week visit, I actually lost 6 ½ pounds. Me, the original “manga” guy! And I know why, the portions are small – which was fine – 4 oz. of fish or 6 oz. of deer steak (no pasta). Everything was delicious, professionally prepared and presented. In New Zealand they cook primarily what is available and not a lot is imported. Variety is limited and food is expensive. Why are American people overweight? Simple, an overabundance of cheap food. Too much success can be difficult to handle. One memorable dining experience was at the Anatoki Salmon Farm in Golden Bay,  where Hans and Greta are raising small king salmon for a restaurant and store. Here’s the deal, you catch the fish and then Hans cleans, filets and smokes them for you to eat right there. They use different combinations of wood and seasonings and the whole process takes about 20 minutes. Let me tell you, that was the best smoked salmon I have ever had. The salmon are fed a diet of
organic grains combined with the ground up trim, head and bones of the filleted salmon. Great spot – www.anatokisalmon.co.nz.





Just received a flier from the Sierra Nut House in Fresno. Hmm, sound familiar, but this one is the real thing. It reminds me of my Sicilian Uncle Tom, a real live fish peddler who traveled the surrounding area selling fresh fish to ranchers and farmers. Along the way he would buy or trade for fruit, goats, pigs, vegetables or anything he thought he could sell back in his Monterey-Italian neighborhood of Monroe Street. One time he returned with a large assortment of nuts and told my sister to make a big sign announcing them for sale. My uncle’s Sicilian was better than his English, so after going back and forth for a while, he insisted on “ALL NUTS FOR SALE”, and the sign was put up on the front porch. Remember what I say, you can never have too many nuts at your Christmas dinner table.

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Q). A few year ago, I believe you wrote about a location where you could purchase fresh Polish kielbasa. If I am correct, can you please tell me the name and location?
Mike Dancz
Via e-mail

A). Not only real kielbasa, but how about kiszka, surowa biala or starowiejska? I’m talking an amazing selection of Polish sausages. The place is called “Polana – a Polish Experience” (773) 545-4900. As they say on their web site www.polana.com. Polish people have long been known for the preparation of a wide variety of tasty, moderately spiced, and pleasantly garlicky sausages. Anyone who remembers the genuine, old-world taste of Polish sausages, knows that Polish sausages produced by the large name-brand meat companies are only vaguely reminiscent of the real thing.

Q) I want to serve caviar over Christmas. How do you like to present it and where can I buy the best?
Marcia
Monterey

A). Traditionally caviar was served with chopped egg, onion, parsley, lemon and other things as condiments that really hide the flavor of good caviar. Assuming that you are using sturgeon eggs, you should be looking for clean smelling, shiny eggs. Good caviar is never fishy or excessively salty. The three principal grades of caviar are: Beluga – the most expensive and the largest eggs; Osetra – a bit smaller, with a golden hue and nutty taste; and Sevruga – small eggs with great flavor. Crush the eggs with your tongue against the roof of your mouth. There should be a nice semi-firm texture – you don’t want it to be soft and mushy. Buying caviar is a real crapshoot so you must be very careful. As we’ve seen in the news, imported caviar is pretty much a

thing of the past. Your best bet is California farmed sturgeon. Last year Sammy Hagar and I did a tasting of caviar, foreign and domestic. The domestic won hands down! The best was from a company called Sterling Caviar (800-525-0333). Other suppliers include: Lafayette Caviar and Fine Foods (415-401-8665 ask for Jerry) and Tsar Nicoulai Caviar (800-95-CAVIAR). My favorite ways to serve caviar: 1) Trimmed lightly-toasted white bread cut in triangles – just spoon it on – use only mother-of-pearl or bone caviar spoons – metal spoons will affect the taste – wood or plastic is okay too. 2) Fingerling potatoes that have been boiled then scooped out and top-broiled on a bed of rock salt. Fill the cavity with caviar and a dollop of crème fraîche or good quality sour cream. 3) Last, but no least, miniature buckwheat pancakes or “blinis” topped with sour cream. If you need some help eating caviar call me and I will supply you with some expert tasters.

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Q). I really enjoy your show! I watch it here in Washington, DC on the AmericanLife TV Network. I particularly love the shows you do with a local focus (I was born and raised in Sacramento, but spent plenty of time in the Bay Area and its environs, so these episodes have some real nostalgic value for me). I have a bit of a challenge for you. I am Jewish and only eat and cook food prepared according to kosher dietary standards. When I watch your show I am usually trying to figure out how to adapt your recipes, or the ingredients, to suit my dietary preferences. As you might imagine, this can be very challenging, and sometimes simply can’t be done. So, here’s the challenge for you: what recipes might you suggest for cooking kosher saddle of venison? I can get kosher venison from www.koshervenison.com. The hard part is finding a recipe that doesn’t involve any dairy products (butter, cream, etc.; meat and milked may not be cooked or even served
together in kosher cooking), or other non-kosher ingredients (like bacon, fatback, etc.). So, what do you think? I eagerly await your response, and will, in the meantime content myself with the next episode of your show.
All best, Josh

A). Any chance of a conversion Josh? A whole new world of food products would open up for you. Or a little cheating - like a Catholic eating meat on Friday? For years I wondered if I was risking a trip to the fire. But, seriously a couple of tips would be to substitute olive oil for butter and to use pastrami in place of bacon. Good luck and shalom!

Don’t you just love this time of year? Olives, wild mushrooms, Italian fig cookies, great oysters, walks in the forest, risottos, hearty soups, roasted parsnips, winter vegetables – go for it! Any help in identifying mushrooms bring them by 786 Wave Street, but call first 373-3778.

Recently received a note from 91-year-old pioneer Margaret Berti of Soledad. She sent me a stack of minced abalone recipes from 1933. A company called Colin-Hopkins Inc. of San Diego, CA was canning minced abalone, and they developed recipes like minced abalone croquettes, scrambled eggs with abalone, abalone fritters, abalone loaf, abalone cocktail, abalone soup and abalone chowder. Can’t get your hands on any minced abalone? Why not try minced clams – guaranteed to work. E-mail me john@pisto.com for complete recipes. Thanks, Maggie!
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