Ask the Chef

December 13, 2006  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Q). Regarding your (3/4/04) column on instructions and recipes for salted mackerel, do you really let it cure for 3-4 months in a warm area? It sounds a little scary to me, despite the salt. Thanks in advance for any additional comments you might have.
Dan Renberg
Los Angeles

A). I’m going to refer you to by brother-in-law Jean. He’s the only guy I know who qualifies as an expert on this one. Give him a call (831-372-26555).

Old friend Pierre Ajoux came by with his annual basket of big, beautiful California chestnuts – get out the roaster Cheryle. Merci to Pierre and his lovely wife. Folks, roasted chestnuts and red wine – one of the best natural pairings.

Q). Where can I find and buy powdered wasabi in Marseille?

Via e-mail

A). Wasabi in Marseille? Is it possible that you are putting me on? Are you writing me from

Marseille? If you really need some wasabi, look for an Oriental food market, sushi bar or maybe you could locate a kind hotel chef willing to share some with you. In Marseille, the seafood capital of the Provence region of France, you should be more interested in the world famous herbes de Provence. Or, a recipe for the most famous seafood dish of Marseilles - bouillabaisse. If you run out of luck with my suggestions, let me know and I’ll send you some.

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More treats from New Zealand – meat pies. So what’s a meat pie? They are these fantastic little pies made with a terrific rich pastry and stuffed with an assortment of fillings that are nice and rich with gravy such as steak, chicken, venison, mushrooms, lamb kidneys, chicken curry. At the places we tried, they were brought out every half-hour or so - fresh and hot. We tasted them for three days straight and the girls certainly had their fill. On the last day we hit the jackpot – Miles Better Pies in Te Anau (population 2500) near Doubtful Sound. The Scottish have something similar called a pastie; the Spanish have the empanada; in Russian it’s the piroshki; and I guess we could include the Italian calzone. Want to try a savory chicken pie? Send me an e-mail for an authentic recipe.

 

Just in time for Christmas, I’ve got a new and improved grill. It’s now bigger and nickel plated cast iron. This new pan is being sold nationwide and soon will be available in my office. It’s a beauty, is incredible to cook, will not rust, is dishwasher safe and doesn’t need to be seasoned. Check it out on the web at www.olvidacookware.com.

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Q). Regarding slippery jacks (mushrooms), have I ever told you the best way to use them? I peel them if I’m going to give them away because the pellicle may cause digestive upset in some people. Be sure to wear rubber gloves or they’ll indelibly stain your hands – that’s why they also make a great dye. DO NOT touch your eyes to avoid major irritation from the pellicle. Slice them about ¼-inch thick and put in a dehydrator. Sometimes I sprinkle with garlic salt and lemon pepper. Cooked fresh, they ought to be called slimy jacks, but dehydrated, I find them better than Porcini. Very strong aroma and flavor in sauces, soups, stews, etc. Even re-hydrated (I like to use leftover coffee) they lose the sliminess. My East European friends pick the buttons and pickle them but even then they are slimy. I’m wondering if you think boiling them first might get rid of that?
Ani Frazier
Via e-mail

A). Along with the recent rains, the mushroom stories are pouring in. Ani is an old friend who always

contributes great items. As you can tell, she is an expert and the slippery jacks she refers are among the most common shrooms found around here. So it is also the mushroom most commonly brought to my office for identification, because it is large, brown and looks pretty edible. Ani knows a lot about processing them; I prefer to throw them over the fence. Remember, folks – make sure you (or someone) knows what you are picking or you just might die!

Q). I wanted to try to make last week’s New Zealand recipe for the dessert called Pavlova, but it seems complicated. Is there a simpler version?
Nicolette N.
Lake Oswego, Oregon

A). Yeah Nicky, I screwed this one up myself – maybe you can do better. Pavlova is a meringue dessert named after the ballet dancer, Anna Pavlova. When prepared properly, it is crispy on the outside but light and fluffy inside. While both New Zealand and Australia claim the pavlova recipe as their own, the earliest known

books containing the recipe were published in New Zealand. Here’s an easier recipe for the pavlova, it really is tasty.

Pavlova Recipe
Serves 6
3 egg whites
3 T. cold water
1 cup castor sugar
1 t. vinegar
1 t. vanilla essence
3 t. cornflour

Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Using an electric mixer, beat egg whites until stiff. Add water and beat again. Add sugar very gradually while still beating. Slow beater and add vinegar, vanilla and cornflour. Line an oven tray with baking paper. Draw a 22 cm circle on the baking paper. Spread the pavlova to within 2 cm of the edge of the circle, keeping the shape as round and even as possible. Smooth top surface over. Bake pavlova for 45 minutes, then leave to cool in the oven. Carefully lift pavlova onto a serving plate. Decorate with whipped cream and fresh fruit.

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