Ask the Chef

December 6, 2006  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Q). You prepared a fantastic salad on one of your shows that placed blackened salmon atop a bed of mixed fruits…kiwi, pineapple, mango, etc. I would love to have the recipe for that dish and did not find it among those on the website. Again, we certainly enjoy your show and you are having a definite impact on how I prepare food…such great and delicious things to enjoy.
Stewart
Via e-mail

A). I think I know the one you’re talking about. I love to use fruit as a base for fish, particularly in

tropical or hot weather. So use any combo of fruit you like. Add a light, fruity extra-virgin olive oil and some rice wine vinegar and you’ve got it. All that’s left is to blacken your fish, a process producing a spicy crust that compliments the sweetness of your fruit.

Q). In your recent column about your family Thanksgivings, you mentioned making Italian sausage. Could you share your recipe with me? I collect old family recipes for making Italian sausage and make my own. I am always looking for that special single ingredient that sets home made Italian sausage

apart from the others.
Bob Chesbro
Silver Creek, NY

A). To tell you the truth Bob, it’s not worth the effort. There are too many good ones around. Aside from the proper equipment, gut casings and refrigeration, you just might end up poisoning your family and friends. On this one I say buy them already made. Find a good company and stick with it. As for secret ingredients, it’s really about fennel, black pepper and salt – that’s it. Some also add cheese, wine, parsley and hot peppers.

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Q). Could you please give me your recipe for brick turkey?
R. Gump
Via e-mail

A). You liked that one, huh? Let’s start with the equipment. You need a large cast iron skillet. If you have a big bird, you can cut it to fit the pan. We’re not talking about a beautiful presentation – we’re talking flavor! Get the pan medium-hot and give the bird a real good pounding with a frying pan to flatten it as much as possible. Then rub it down liberally with my Sensational Seasonings or your favorite rub. Place the turkey skin side down in the skillet and, using a large flat piece of metal (a pizza pan is perfect), place a few bricks on top. Wash the bricks or cover them with foil first. Cook until nicely brown, 10 – 15 minutes, then do the same to the other side. Finish in a 350-degree oven until done (25 minutes per pound).

Q). I recently lost all of my old favorite recipes in a flood, so I was online looking for a bagna calda recipe. I’ve found quite a few, but none of them contain one of the main ingredients that I remember using – whipping cream! I know it was butter, garlic, anchovies (with oil), and some cartons of whipping cream. Have you ever heard of bagna being made that way?
Vicki C.
Benld, Illinois

A). Sorry to hear about your misfortune. My favorite bagna calda recipe comes from my old friend Cam Solari in Reno, Nevada. No whipping cream in his recipe, but here it is:
 

Cam Solari's Bagna Calda Recipe
Serves 4-5 people
1 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 pound sweet butter
15 cloves of peeled garlic (now we're talking!)
4-5 small cans of anchovy fillets

On a very low heat, place the garlic into a pot with the oil. Do not make it too hot, it must be on low. Cooking low and slow, it should take about an hour. The garlic is ready when you can mash it easily. Next add the butter and let it melt and then add the anchovies. While it's cooking, prepare raw washed vegetables for dipping. I like to use, assorted bell peppers, zucchini, cauliflower, broccoli, celery, cabbage - you get the picture. You can also use boiled baby potatoes, grilled onions, shrimp and good French bread. The incredible flavor of this dip along with the crunch of the veggies may make you crazy so watch out!

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Just spent three weeks in New Zealand with daughter Gia, work-ing her way around there visiting and backpacking. Ah what a life! We had the pleasure to see Andy, Jenny and baby Elly Ricciardi in Nelson. These kids moved there a few years ago because Monterey is just too expensive for a start-up family. Both are teachers and the govern-ment treats them like gold. They also have a great 3-bedroom home ($200,000). They love the out-doors, the weather and boy is it clean. Congratulations kids I’m proud to see that you have matured into terrific people. New Zealand, where men are men and sheep are nervous. There are 4 million people in the whole country and 41 million sheep, plus dairy and beef cattle. Holy smokes – that’s a lot of animals. The people are the nicest in the world. British, Dutch, Germans and natives (Moaries). Only one Italian restau-rant on the south island in Nelson. New Zealand is called the extreme sport center of the world, but lets talk food. Our favorite dish was Pavlova. What is it? It is an unusual dessert with a soft, sweet marshmallow center and a crisp crust served with sliced fresh berries or fruit. I guarantee you will go nuts over this. You dessert bakers out there, try this one!
Pavlova Recipe
Serves 6 to 8
4 large egg whites
1 cup superfine or castor sugar
1 t. white vinegar
1/2 tablespoon cornstarch
Topping:
1 cup heavy whipping cream
1 1/2 T. granulated white sugar
1/2 t. pure vanilla extract

Fresh fruit - kiwi, strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, passion fruit, peaches, pineapple, or other fruit of your choice. Preheat oven to 250 degrees F and place rack in center of oven. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and draw a 7 inch (18 cm) circle on the paper. In the bowl of your electric mixer with the whisk attachment, beat the egg whites on medium-high speed until they hold soft peaks. Start adding the sugar, a tablespoon at a time, and continue to beat until the meringue holds very stiff peaks. (Test to see if the sugar is fully dissolved by rubbing a little of the meringue between your thumb and index finger. The meringue should feel smooth, not gritty. If it feels gritty the sugar has not fully dissolved so keep beating until it feels smooth between your fingers). Sprinkle the vinegar and cornstarch over the top of the meringue and, with a rubber spatula, fold in. Gently

spread the meringue inside the circle drawn on the parchment paper, smoothing the edges, making sure the edges of the meringue are slightly higher than the center (you want a slight well in the center of the meringue to place the whipped cream and fruit). Bake for 1 hour 15 minutes or until the outside is dry and takes on a very pale cream color. Turn the oven off, leave the door slightly ajar, and let the meringue cool completely in the oven. (The outside of the meringue will feel firm to the touch, if gently pressed, but as it cools you will get a little cracking and you will see that the inside is soft and marshmallowy.)

The cooled meringue can be made and stored in a cool dry place, in an airtight container, for a few days. Just before serving, gently place the meringue onto a serving plate. Whip the cream in your electric mixer, with the whisk attachment, until soft peaks form. Sweeten with the sugar and vanilla and then mound the softly whipped cream into the center of the meringue. Arrange the fruit randomly, or in a decorative pattern, on top of the cream. Serve immediately as this dessert does not hold for more than a few hours.

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