Ask the Chef

August 16, 2006  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Q). I’m taking my boyfriend to Monterey for his birthday and he loves oysters. Can you point me in the direction of a good oyster bar?

A). Oysters bars are a rare sight these days. There are a few around the peninsula, including mine on Fisherman’s Wharf (Domenico’s). A good oyster bar will feature the freshest and coldest oysters, shucked expertly upon ordering. They should arrive  at your table whole, resting in the

half-shell in their own liquor smelling only of the sea. Oyster liquor is the oyster’s natural juices trapped inside the shell. If not stored properly, this precious liquid can be lost. Any good oyster bar should also serve other classic oyster dishes such as barbecued oysters, oyster shooters or oysters Rockefeller where the fresh oysters are placed on top of a mixture of spinach and bacon, then placed in an oven and finished with a topping of hollandaise sauce. Invented in New Orleans in 1899, oysters
Rockefeller was adapted from a snail dish when French snails became scarce. Because it was so rich, it was named after the richest person at the time, John D. Rockefeller. Another of my restaurants, The Whaling Station Prime Steaks and Seafood, makes a mean Rockefeller in addition to a nightly selection of fresh oysters. Wherever you and your boyfriend end up, make sure the oysters are ice cold.

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Q). John I have a recipe calling for Italian frying peppers. How do they differ from bell peppers, what do they look like and most importantly where can I find them? Dazy
Pebble Beach Via e-mail

A). You're most likely to find these peppers at a local farmer’s market. If you can find sweet Anaheims, they work well. Any number of other varieties are fine, just make sure they are not too hot. You might also check out Asian Pacific Market on Reservation Road in Marina. You are looking for a medium-sized sweet curly pepper that fries up fantastic. Don’t forget your regular bells – they also fry up very nice. Just make sure that

they are nice and thick. Try this: Slice some red and green bells into 1” strips and de-seed. Place into a large frying pan with some olive oil. Cover with a lid and cook on medium for 20 or so minutes. Now add chopped garlic, some sliced onions and a can of Italian tomatoes. Season with salt and hot pepper flakes. Continue to cook until soft. Make a sandwich out of this with some crunchy Italian bread and watch out!

Q). How do you make your crab stock?
Joe and Linda
Via e-mail

A). I wonder if this is the same lady who makes her crab stock with

chicken broth? With our abundance of Dungies, I don’t hesitate to use the whole crab - meat and all (clean of course). However, if you don’t want to do that, just save the shells and start by sautéing 2 onions, 6 garlic cloves, 2 ribs of celery, 2 carrots, some parsley (all coarsely chopped), a bit of fresh thyme and a small can of whole tomatoes (broken up with your hands). Next add the shells of 4 crabs, broken up as small as possible, 2 cups of dry white wine and top off with water (or light fish stock). Bring to a boil then lower to a simmer. Skim off the scum as it accumulates and simmer for 1 hour. Season with salt and pepper to taste, strain and you’ve got it!

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Q). We are loving another great tomato season this summer and have even grown our own beefsteaks. We tried your recipe for grilled tomatoes with crème fraîche and it was a hit. Any other suggestions? Maria Sanchez Seaside, Ca. Via e-mail

A). As you found out Maria, quick grilling retains the tomatoes’ fresh taste while inducing a smoky flavor. Try this easy Grilled Tomato Soup Recipe. 6 large cloves of garlic wrapped in foil 4 lbs. Roma tomatoes or any smallish firm, ripe variety ½ red onion peeled 1 T. kosher salt 1 t. fresh ground pepper After tossing in olive oil, place the tomatoes, onion and garlic in a grill basket, place on the grill and cook until the skin starts to peel away from the tomatoes (about 6 minutes). Turn the basket over and grill for another 6 minutes. Put half of the vegetables in a food processor and puree until smooth. Transfer to a

stock pot and repeat with the remaining vegetables. Add 2 cups of chicken stock and simmer over medium for 30 minutes. Adjust your seasoning and serve with a drizzle of our best olive oil.

Speaking of tomatoes, the heirloom tomatoes are here. Pick carefully, folks, they are not all the same. Some are much better than others. Taste them first if possible before you buy. I recently bought a whole box and could not eat them fast enough, so I let them get nice and soft and made the most delicious pasta ever. It’s the one that is the most requested in my home. Use one pound of pasta (angel hair, linguine or penne will do) as an appetizer for six regular people, or dinner four Italians. Remember to use only vine-ripened, soft, heirloom tomatoes. Start with three pounds of assorted tomatoes cored and diced into one-inch chunks; two cups of fresh basil cut into small pieces; one-quarter cup of your best 
extra-virgin olive oil; salt and pepper; a pinch of crushed red pepper; one-half cup of drained capers; 10-12 fresh garlic cloves (these must be put through a garlic press - I love it hot - taste as you go because you must taste the raw garlic to make the flavor work); two tins of chopped anchovies (optional); one cup freshly grated Romano cheese and half a can of pitted kalamata olives, rough chopped. Boil pasta in salted water. Drain and immediately add all ingredients. Toss well and serve with extra grated cheese as needed. Note that the sauce is actually made from the tomato juice, olive oil and the grated cheese - unbelievable!

Folks, I just returned from Favorite Bay Lodge in Alaska and boy, have I got some stories, photos, and recipes to share. Wild mushrooms, bears, fishing, foraging for wild asparagus. Great stuff, all in next week’s column.

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