Ask the Chef

August 9, 2006  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Q). Why do chefs use carrot, onion and celery leaves when boiling chicken or a like meat? Corporate John, Via e-mail

A). Why? Why not? What you are referring to is known to chefs as Mirepoix (from the French town of the same name). It is the French name for this combination of onions, carrots and celery. Mirepoix, forms to make the classic flavor base for a wide variety of soups, stews and sauces. These three ingredients

are usually referred to as aromatics and we also brown them to add even deeper, richer flavor and color. Other combinations include leeks, parsnips, garlic, tomatoes, shallots, mushrooms, bell peppers, chiles, and ginger. Traditionally, the ratio for mirepoix is 2 parts onions to one part celery and one part carrots.

Looking for fresh, whole exotic fish? Varieties like cuttlefish, many types of true snapper, reef fish, extra large three-pound squid, head-on shrimp and sea bream. These,

and many I’ve never ever seen before, can be found at the Asia Pacific Market – 330B Reservation Road, Marina. Call ahead (884-0104) and get there early to get the best selections. Owners Louis Marquez and Sonja Singh have run this all-family store for eight years and there is no place like it around here. Warning: don’t be put off by some of the aromas – dried fish can be pretty potent.

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Q). I am a big huckleberry fan. We just returned from a vacation to Idaho, Washington and Oregon where we enjoyed huckleberry ice cream, huckleberry waffles, huckleberry D’Latah wine, bought huckleberry marinade and six jars of homemade huckleberry jam. I also bought a gallon of frozen huckleberries that I shipped home overnight. I hope to make huckleberry pies with the frozen huckleberries; however, it was too early in mid-June for fresh huckleberry pie. I was also curious if there might be any huckleberry bushes locally. So I was very interested to read the e-mail from Heidi in Pacific Grove in your column about huckleberries she and her daughter picked in Pebble Beach. Where did she find these bushes? Would it be possible for you to pass on my request to Heidi for the huckleberry location? I would love to go picking!
Elizabeth Elsensohn
Seaside, CA Via e-mail
A). Talk about your Huckleberry Hound! I don’t want to start a stampede in Pebble Beach, however, if you go to any of the open spaces where there are trees and shrubs and just keep looking, I’m sure you will find them. Just don’t forget about the poison oak Lizzie!

Message received: Hi John, this is Nancy Mangiapane and I am giving you a tip on cioppino. Do not sauté the parsley and garlic with the onions. Instead, finish your cioppino and for the last five minutes, you throw on top lots of chopped Italian parsley and lots of garlic. Cover and wait five minutes until it steams a little. When you take the cover off, you see the difference and the smell – Ba-Ba-Boom.

Response from the Chef:
Hi Nancy, nice hearing from you. Folks, Mrs. Mangiapane is one of 

Monterey’s better cooks and this one sounds pretty good. Give it a try; she would love to hear from you.

Q). Any advice where to obtain Botargo? Mail order businesses? Boston?
Thanks mucho.
Helmet Schwarzer
New Hampshire, Via e-mail

A). Botargo, a prized delicacy of the Mediterranean, refers to the salted and pressed eggs of tuna or mullet (the fish, not the haircut). It is generally grated over pasta, tomatoes or risotto or just sliced very thin with a sprinkle of olive oil and lemon. Peter Dentice of Monterey used to bring me some every year – great stuff! Give Nick a call (831-760-6246) but don’t panic at the price – it is expensive. By the way, it tastes like the best salted anchovy you’ve ever had.

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Q). Caught your show with Sammy Hagar as your guest chef where he made a “scallop cocktail.” Would love that recipe. Mrs. Rodarte Via e-mail

A). As it so happens, we saw Sammy in concert this past weekend. So how was the Sammy Hagar concert? Holy mackerel, what a show! Rock stars are athletes 1st – entertainers 2nd. I can honestly say that Sammy and the Waboritas are better now than they have ever been. Plus the production and stage set-up is nothing short of spectacular. What a show! – hot, hot, hot!

My crew of 23 people had a blast. Watch for the concert on my show to air soon. The food? Boy can those guys eat! 2 1/2 hrs. on stage, full throttle, makes for very hungry people. I brought them baked ziti pasta and Osso Buco. Thanks to Tom, Rick, Kari and especially Sammy – you have definitely got it. And here, Mrs. Rodarte, is your recipe:
Scallop Cocktail Recipe
2 pounds super-fresh scallops – cut in thin slices and marinate in 2 cups fresh lime juice for 4 hours. 2 diced fresh jalapenos 4 diced firm tomatoes 1 diced small red onion 1 chopped bunch of cilantro 1 seeded and chopped large cucumber 1 quart tomato juice 2 oz. Cabo Wabo tequila 2 t. sugar 1 T. cumin salt and pepper Remove marinated scallops from juice and place in a bowl. Add all other ingredients and blend well. Serve in large martini glasses garnished with lime slices and cilantro.

Fig time. While cooking dinner for the Clarks and Paul Williams (actor, songwriter, producer) I had

some fresh figs. What to do? Get a torch and some brown sugar. Cut the figs into quarters, sprinkle with a little brown sugar, flame it with the torch to crunch it up, finish with a dab of mascarpone cheese and watch out. Thanks to ol’ friend and nice man Tom Aliotti, I’m having them again. Thanks for the figs – you’re the best Mr. Tom!

Q). I am trying to find out the name of an appetizer that I had at the Whaling Station in May. I am allergic to seafood, so the waiter suggested something that was not on the menu. Please help me. It was a serving of these tiny dumplings(?) covered with a mushroom sauce of some sort. They melted in the mouth! Any idea what they were called so I can request them again?
Marsha Atwater, CA Via e-mail

A). What you had was our house-made gnocchi with gorgonzola cream and morels. It’s not found on the regular menu, but on a separate nightly additions menu. I’m so glad you enjoyed it.

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