Ask the Chef

August 2, 2006  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Q). Back in 1940 my family lived in a cabin in Marin County a couple of miles up the hill from a place called Lagunitas. I was eleven and along about Easter I became aware of an aroma rising from somewhere down yonder. My mother said it was “the shapping” (accent on the last syllable). “They are making a fish stew at the Catholic church down by the general store.” That aroma filled the valley for nearly a week and you could almost taste the air. This was my first experience with Cioppino and it has never been as good since. Sam in Tiburon made one that was almost as good, but for me, there will never be another one as good as that marvelous time in Lagunitas. The recipe? It is unwritten. Everyone in the community contributed as it stewed in a great copper pot for days. And…perhaps that is why you wouldn’t tell your grandmother on her deathbed how you make it? Carroll Briggs Via e-mail
A). That accent sounds northern Italian. The story goes everyone who wanted to eat had to chip-in – get it? “Chip-in” became “Cioppino.” God bless my grandmother!

It’s about time we started seeing some rosé wines around here. Personally, I love them. I’m not talking about white zinfandel, a true rosé must be dry. Not only is rosé the perfect summer daytime wine – served ice cold, but it is equally as good in the evening with cracked crab, barbecued fish, tapas, shrimp or any shellfish, pizza – you name it. The combination of low levels of sugar and delicious fruit flavors make for excellent wine and food parings. New ones that I have recently enjoyed are from Silvestri (Carmel Valley), Martin & Weyrich (Paso Robles) and Hahn Estate (Monterey).

Q). I recently bought a cast iron grill pan, but I am still learning how to use it properly. Do you have any tips for grilling up a good medium-rare steak on the stove? What is the best cut of meat, temperature, etc.? Via e-mail

A). Is this my pan? First, season according to the directions. Now, the steaks (I recommend New Yorks or rib eyes) should be at least 16 oz. and the pan heated to medium high on a gas range. After 10 minutes, season the meat with Sensational Seasonings, salt and pepper and cook for 6 minutes and then turn. After another 6 minutes, cut into the steak and proceed to cook to your desired doneness.

 

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Folks, we are taping a show at the Sammy Hagar concert on Friday, August 4th at the Shoreline in Mountain View. Rock out folks, you only live once. After doing a 2 1/2 hour show Sammy boy is absolutely famished. It was the same with Johnny Rivers and Michael Bolton – these guys were starving. Sammy’s favorite dish is Osso Buco, so, could I have it ready for him after the show? You bet, Osso Buco and baked ziti for the Red Rocker. Now here's my recipe for
Osso Buco Recipe Red Rocker Style:

4 veal shanks (1 1/2 pounds each) 6 tablespoons of butter
2 diced carrots
3 diced ribs of celery
2 diced large onions
6 minced garlic cloves
Pinch of crushed red pepper
2 tablespoons of olive oil
1-28 ounce can of whole tomatoes
1 cup dry red wine
15 ounce can of beef consumé
1 teaspoon of thyme
3 tablespoons of chopped parsley
1 cup dried chestnuts
1 bay leaf
1 strip of lemon rind
1 teaspoon grated lemon rind
flour, salt and pepper.

Heat 2 tablespoons of butter in a frying pan. Add the carrots, onions, celery and half of the minced garlic. Cook until the onions are golden brown. Remove from the heat and transfer to a large ovenproof dish. Coat the veal with flour that has been seasoned with salt and pepper. Heat the remaining butter and oil in a large frying pan. Add the

shanks and brown well on all sides. Carefully pack shanks on top of the vegetables standing them upright to retain the marrow in the bones. Puree the tomatoes with their own liquid. Take the pan that the shanks were browned in and drain off all of the fat. Add the consume, chestnuts, pureed tomatoes, thyme, bay leaf, and the strip of lemon rind. Bring to a boil, season with salt and pepper and pour over the veal shanks. Cover the baking dish and bake in a 350 degree oven for 1 1/2 hours or until veal is tender, stirring occasionally. Combine the remaining garlic chopped parsley and lemon grated lemon rind to be sprinkled on top of the shanks when served. Serve on slices of warm polenta, mashed potatoes or pasta.

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Baked Ziti Pasta Recipe Italian Style:

Cook and cool 2 lbs. ziti (al denté).
To make the sauce:
2-28 oz. Italian tomatoes
Sauté 2 medium onions
10 garlic cloves
Crushed red pepper
Salt & Pepper
1 lb. hamburger
1lb. sausage meat out of casing

Cook for approximately 30 minutes.

Have ready 1 lb. grated Parmesano, 1 lb. grated Romano, 3 egg plant (sliced 1/2” thick and grilled), 10 sliced hard boiled eggs. Now put it all together! Using a small roasting pan, start by covering the bottom with sauce. Next a layer of pasta, then a layer of eggplant, eggs and cheese. Cover with sauce. Continue until you have 2 or 3 layers. Last layer will be pasta, eggplant, eggs, cheese and lots of sauce. Bake at 350 degree for 1 hour with lid, then 1 hour without lid. Crunchy top is okay. Serve extra sauce on the side and more cheese. Sammy Rocks!
Q). Do you have any information, contacts or anything related to wood-burning pizza ovens? I am in Salinas and want to get one installed at home. Glenn Della Maggiore Via e-mail

A). Hey, Della Maggiore! What a nice Italian name. You are in luck – there is a company close by in Watsonville. Give John, Andrea or Carol a call, (831) 761-1767. they’ve got it all.

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