Ask the Chef

April 12, 2006  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Q). A year or so ago, I had the good fortune to join you and David Arora on a mushroom hunting foray. At the end of the day, you prepared an excellent meal for the group. I especially loved the Candy Cap bread pudding, and I'm not a huge bread pudding fan. My "shroomers buddies" and I all have an abundance of candy caps on our hands right now. Would you be so kind as to share that recipe or another one you like for candy caps? (Yes, I remember the "dying grandmother" story but anything would b appreciated!) Also, are you and David planning to do more mushrooms events in our area in the future? That was too much fun!
Hilary Mackenzie
Seaside, CA, Via e-mail

A). First, are you sure you have Candy Caps? If you are 100% sure (no less), you can try them in cookies, pancakes, waffles or stuffing. I suggest you give David a call (707) 884-3457 about future outings, Monterey has enough mushroom hunters. So, Hilary, I did tell you about my grandmother asking for that bread pudding recipe? Since you know how that turned out, here is a cookie recipe instead:

Candy Cap Cookies Recipe
1 ¼ cup sugar
1 cup Shortening or margarine
2 eggs
¼ cup corn syrup
1 Tbl. Vanilla
3 cups flour
¾ tsp. Baking powder

½ tsp baking soda
½ tsp. Salt
1/8 ounce of dried Candy Caps

Preheat oven to 375. Lightly grease a cookie sheet. Cream together until fluffy the sugar, shortening, eggs, vanilla and corn syrup. In a separate bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, soda and salt. Blend well. Gradually add to creamed mixture until completely mixed. Crunch Candy Cap mushrooms into small pieces and fold into the mixture. Spoon onto cookie sheet or roll into balls and roll in sugar for additional sweetness.

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Readers:  Mrs. Warren Thompson of Monterey dared me to relate a recipe she sent me that I find very interesting. When her nine-year-old granddaughter was living in Hawaii, her Japanese teacher took several students to his parent's taro patch to swim in the irrigation ditches, where there were tiny eels. The teacher said his family used to gather the eels, put them in a pan with a block of tofu and gently warm the pan until the eels burrowed into the tofu. Then they would heat the tofu enough to bake the eels, and serve. Around the world, there is such fascinating diversity in dining. Take for example a dish I encountered in  Kunming, China. I'm sure you'll be

wondering why they call it "Three squeaks mice." First you need very small, hairless mice that have yet to open their eyes. I'm talking small - the size of the end of your little finger. The first squeak is when you pick it up with your chopsticks; the second squeak is when you dip it in the chili-soy sauce and the third and final squeak is when you pop it in your mouth. Let met know if you want the recipe for the chili-soy sauce.

Q). When you cook a thick steak, after searing on the outside, at what temperature do you finish cooking it and how do you test for doneness?
Lynn Hohler - Pleasanton
Vie e-mail

A). You're talking about my favorite method of cooking a steak by first searing it in a hot pan and then finishing it in the oven. The oven temperature that I use is about 400 degrees. You must be very careful because after removing from the pan, the meat is still cooking. Unless you know how to test with touching and pressure on the meat or have a digital meat thermometer, just simply make a small cut in the corner and look inside. I'm talking about a 1/2 to 3/4 inch slit. It will cook rather quickly so stay on top of it.

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Green Peppercorn Steak Recipe - Serves 2 - 1/2 cup of beef stock or from bouillon cubes, 1/4 cup finely chopped shallots, 1/4 cup brandy, 1/4 cup green peppercorns in brine, 1/4 cup heavy cream, 1 tsp. butter. De-glaze pan (used to sear steak) with bouillon to start sauce. Add shallots and stir. Add brandy and green peppercorns with brine and stir. Add cream and stir until sauce thickens. Finally, add butter and stir until melted. Slice steak (1/4 inch to 1/2 inch) at an angle. Place on plates, pour sauce over meat and serve.

Q). How do you cook the frozen calamari steaks you buy in the supermarket so they are tender? Is it fast, or is it slow cooking?
Jackie Fobes, Via e-mail
A). I assume you are referring to the thick Mexican squid. The steaks are larger and thicker than our local variety because these creatures are several times larger. As a matter of fact, Chris Arcoleo, of Chris' Fishing Trips in Monterey, says people have been catching these giants from his boats over the past several months. The ones you buy at the market are already tenderized during processing, so it is quite simple. Just dip in egg (optional) and seasoned flour or breadcrumbs, sauté in butter and olive oil (don't overcook) and you will have a nice fish dish.
Q). Dear Chef Pisto,
We found your interesting recipes for ham on your web site. Can you recommend some side dishes to go with our Easter ham?
Kathryne B.
Via e-mail

A). Lately, my favorite is fried greens. I checked with Peter at Del Monte Produce and he recommends mustard, turnip, Swiss chard, broccoli rabe, escarole and endive as good side dishes. Just wash them well, chop fine and steam a bit. Then fry in garlic, hot pepper and olive oil. Also, you can't go wrong with some mashed sweet potatoes or yams. Just don't forget to load it with butter. Happy Easter everyone!

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