Ask the Chef

April 5, 2006  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Q). I remember when I lived back in Pennsylvania; there were many fine restaurants that served Veal Cordon Bleu and/or Chicken Cordon Bleu. However, now that I live here in Pacific Grove, I can think of no restaurants on the peninsula which served Cordon Bleu. Has it gone out of style? Are you aware of any restaurants that serve Cordon Bleu?
Adam in Pacific Grove,
Via e-mail

A). First, let’s review what this dish is all about. The term “Cordon Bleu” which is French for “blue ribbon” refers to a prize winning recipe or chef. Traditionally veal Cordon Bleu is a piece of veal pounded out to the size of a medium fist on which you place a piece of ham and a slice of Swiss cheese. The veal is then rolled up, dipped in flour, egg wash and bread crumbs and deep fried or browned in butter and finished in a 350-degree oven.

As for locating this type of cuisine, Adam, you are in luck. You’ll find what you’re looking for at Stammtisch (German) Restaurant in Seaside (899-3070). Chef Claudia and husband Irwin, run a first-class restaurant with possibly the best selection of schnitzels, German beers and wines, all at reasonable prices, in California.

~~~~~

Q). I am making 25 gallons of gravy from a base in a tilting fry pan. How would you thicken it? I have tried flour only and 1/2 cornstarch and 1/2 flour but all I got was lumpy gravy that did not thicken. Any suggestions?

Via e-mail

A). Put everything in a cement mixer and let ‘er rip! Or, get yourself a small outboard motor, attach it to the side of the pan and fire it up (do this outside). Okay, let’s get down to business. My first suggestion is to look for a gravy base that already has a thickener in it. All you have to do is heat it up without burning it. If you use one without thickener, you must bring the stock to a low boil and add a mixture of corn

starch and some stock. I usually do this by eye, but you can follow instructions on the box. Corn starch produces a nice smooth gravy, but you must stir it in with a whisk. One draw back is that if you have to reheat it, it will separate (or “break”) if you get it too hot. Finally, the very best way is to make a roux – equal parts of butter and flour. Melt the butter, add the flour and cook for 20 minutes (slowly!). You want it to be a nice light brown but don’t burn it. Next add the roux to the slowly boiling stock and whisk it in. if it gets too thick, add more stock. Too thin? Make more roux. Good luck and have your favorite antacid ready.

Q). As our local salmon season has just opened, we are planning to go out this weekend and try our luck and landing one. Can you

recommend one of you favorite recipes for fresh salmon?
Jacob S., Via e-mail

A). Folks, what could be better than our local wild salmon! Blackened salmon is still the best way to eat this super-rich fish. It cuts the richness and gives a great contrast. You can use my stuff (Sensational Seasonings) or any other dry rub. Just make sure it doesn’t have a lot of salt, and just season on the exposed side. Brown in a cast iron skillet, finish in the oven and you have got it! By the way, for a great fishing trip – check out Chris’ Fishing Trips and Whale Watching on our wharf (375-5951 - ask for Sonny or Todd) and tell them I sent you.

~~~~~

Q). Dear Chef Pisto: When making lasagna or stuffed pasta shells, do you drain the ricotta for an hour over a strainer? Thank you in advance.
Barb, Via e-mail

A). Check out the type of ricotta that you have. If it is in the form of curds, then you must drain it (overnight is best). Most of the better ricotta sold today needs no straining. Just be sure to use it right away.

Q). My boyfriend saw your show on 3/27/06. Swordfish was on the menu and he thought he could find some fresh around here. Can you point us in the right direction?
Via e-mail

A). Call Buster Crab at Monterey Fish (375-3511). That’s the ticket!

Q). Regarding Gloria Kay Martinez's inquiry (good balsamic vinegar sources other than Chicago), you might want to tell her that there are two reliable local sources for the "real stuff". The Bountiful Basket at the Barnyard in Carmel; and Jones & Bones in Capitola. Both also have web sites for ordering (I only know the web address for Jones & Bones: www.jonesandbones.com. I puzzled over your "Tripe sand" remark in last week’s column. Not the tripe (I love it, or used to when I could get it, especially South-of-the-border style), but the 'sand' reference - probably sandwich, considering the context. I'm all for offal. They are a neglected source of gastronomic pleasure here in the good ole USA. Heart, kidney, liver, pig skin, pig's feet...bring 'em on or pick 'em up. Have any clue as to where you can get fresh chicken feet?  Or how to
cook them?  As a kid in Phoenix, Arizona, my Mom used to cook them (in those days you got the feet with the bird, ha, ha), and all the siblings fought for the first suck-of-the-skin. She may have just stewed them with seasoning, along with the rest of a tough hen, and the dish misnamed “chicken fricassee” with dumplings and feet.

Betty Pustarfi, Via e-mail

A). Sand refers to a sandwich in restaurant-speak. “Pick it up” is also restaurant talk meant for the waiter person to pick up the order. As for chicken feet, they are available at La Morenita Tortilleria on the corner of Fremont and Broadway in Seaside (394-3770).

For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants
in Monterey, California, click here.

Pisto Home Page  ♦ Current Article  ♦ Index of Articles, Recipes and Subjects