Ask the Chef

October 19, 2005  ...  by Chef John Pisto

I'm writing from the Pacific Northwest and I've just tasted sweet, slightly salty razor clams, more on that later. Been on a 7-day journey to Port Townsend, Washington to do a cooking demo for the Medicinal Mushroom Conference. There were more PhD's there than you could shake a mushroom at. There were 25 countries represented; scientists and doctors all studying the medicinal value of mushrooms. The director, Paul Stamets, himself a genius, asked me to do some cooking demos using mushrooms. After the terrific success at the Aquarium relief fund for hurricane Katrina, where I prepared a giant (1,000 tastes) jambalaya in my special pan, I was still thinking big. Port Townsend is on the tip of the Olympic Coast above Seattle, very close to the Canadian border. We stayed at Port Worden an old army base complete with mess hall, officer's quarters and conference rooms.

This is a perfect location for large groups gathering great ideas. Sounds like something the Monterey Peninsula could do (Hmmmmm). Now on to the menu; I was given a perfect location to cook in. A kitchen shelter shack right on the beach, complete with a wood stove, nice range, sink, refrigerator and picnic tables. There were also big windows to watch ships and beach life. First menu - I prepared candy cap-sausage risotto for 150 people. Being that there were 250 participants at this meeting, and there were three other classes going on at this time, I figured 10lbs. of rice would be sufficient. Four o'clock and the room was full - standing room only. When I added the candy cap mushrooms, the fragrance was overwhelming. The smell of savory maple filled the room and my audience was amazed. People walking by the building had to stop and see where that delicious aroma was coming from. I also brought some of Monterey County wines. After joking and telling  mushroom
stories for about 40 minutes, the risotto was done. Needless to say it was delicious. Look for this one at the Blue Moon folks. The next day I needed a show stopper because word was out that there was an Italian guy by the beach cooking wild mushrooms in a giant pan and drinking wine. So what to do? How about a polenta dish featuring fresh shrooms and one with dried porcinis and tomato sauce. But there was one problem, I needed to serve both properly - after some maneuvering, I thought about the table tops. They were 8' long, 36" wide and had a Formica finish - let's go for it.10 lbs. of polenta should do it. In the big pan we had all fresh chanterelles, matsutakes, pigs ears, lions heads, cauliflower, hedge hogs and lobster - sounds more like a massacre than mushrooms. For the dried porcini polenta, we had some Marzano tomatoes and the usual, except I added a bit of fennel.

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Assisting me was my daughter Gia and her neat friend Willy-boy Adams, both up from Portland to help. With tables all cleaned off, down goes the 4 gallons of hot cheesy polenta - everyone was shocked - then the other (what is this guy doing?). Then the two sauces, a heavy sprinkling of Reggiano Parmesano, pour the wine and serve the food - women and children first. After that, every man for himself, what a great time. But that's not all, in walks Andrew Weil, fresh off the cover of Time
Magazine. Yo! Andy, what a pleasure to see you. Last year we spent 7 days on a boat in Petersburg, Alaska and shot a bunch of shows. I should also mention that I baked a large cauliflower mushroom (the size of a basketball), basted with escarole butter - WOW! - knocked their socks off. Special thanks to Gia and Will; David Arora; Tinker from Cuba; Paul and Dusty Stamets and the whole crew from Fungi Perfecti in Olympia, Washington.
Met Victoria the survivalist, also known as the chicken liver lady. Talk about frugality in the kitchen, she collects gizzards and livers from the chicken farms (for free) and grinds them up to make paté, which she puts in jars. She kept insisting that I try it but when I politely refused to taste the brown stuff, she left me with a jar to take home. After she left, I gave the jar to Tinker, who gave it to her cat.

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Cruising the Oregon Coast: Want to taste pickled salmon, razor clams and award-winning canned tuna? It's the Bell Buoy Fish Market in Seaside, Oregon. You won't believe the pickled King salmon and, they will ship it to you - (503) 529-2722 www.bellbuoyofseaside.com. Next stop - Garibaldi, Oregon - home of the huge letter "G" on the hill; the annual Pacific Northwest crab races; and the Oregon shrimp (bay shrimp, that is). We bought them right at the plant. A one-pound tub, more than one person can eat, for $3.50. Fresh, sweet, salty, delicious! Bay Ocean Seafood, right on the pier. Next door, all you can eat fish and chips at Val's Place (503) 322-2033. Fresh King salmon filet for $5.50 per pound - not bad. Crab season just starting, pots all over the place. By the way, this bay shrimp fishery is
tightly managed by fishermen and the government, so there will be shrimp around for a long time - we're talking sustainability. The salmon fisher-men work right along U.S. 101, literally shouting distance from the road. We also visited Pacific Seafood Inc., the largest indepen-dently owned seafood group in the Western U.S. www.pacseafood.com. They have 700 boats, 1,000 distributors and 2,000 products and they fully endorse the advancement of the seafood industry with regard to sustain-ability. We checked out their oyster processing plant where they have a small restaurant serving fresh oysters, clams, etc. A sign on the wall says: "Nothing in life prepares you for your first raw oyster." Oysters have always got to be served fresh and ice-cold, no other options. This area of the Oregon coast is a seafood lover's

paradise. Shellfish and fin fish of all types and reasonably priced. Unfortunately the cooking was pretty bad. Fish and chips overcooked (cardboard-ish) and fried oysters cooked on one side only. We should really appreciate all of the great restaurants around Monterey and real deals like the wharf's weekly local's special.

Speaking of fish, did anyone happen to catch last week's episode of Boston Legal? They briefly touched on the supposed threat farm-raised salmon poses to the B.C. wild salmon population. Mostly just more ignorant misinformation. The only amusing part was when the supposed ecology-worshiping character, played by William Shatner, shot a wild salmon with a shotgun during a catch-and-release outing.

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