Ask the Chef

March 2, 2005  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Dear Chef Pisto,

I'm a faithful reader over here in Salinas Valley (does anyone from the peninsula know where we are?). I think I read somewhere that there is really no such thing as a sardine, by name. The sardines are just baby fish of various types. My Swiss-Italian wife thinks I'm crazy. She also doesn't agree with my premise about the sardines. What's the real scoop?

George Worthy, Via e-mail

A). Give your wife a kiss because 

a sardine is a real fish. Monterey was the sardine capital of the world at one time and most people don't realize that they are still here in abundance. Fresh sardines are a staple in Europe. Once I filmed a show in Corsica where they cooked sardines 7 or 8 different ways. The best is barbecued. Sardines are loaded with omega-3 fatty acids and believe me folks, they are absolutely delicious. As I said last week, they are now on the menu (barbecued Sicilian style) at Blue Moon on Cannery Row. Can you think of a more appropriate place to serve sardines than in the heart of the place that they made
famous? The baby fish you are talking are the tiny ones that come in a can which are usually herring or some other small fish of the same family. The large fish in the oval cans are always sardines. Sadly, much of our local sardines are now shipped to Japan for tuna bait. As I have said before, Americans want filet cuts - no bones, no fuss (and no flavor - just kidding). By the way Georgie, I know where you are. I hear from a lot of readers out your way. On the Wharf you are considered a local every Tuesday and Wednesday, so come on down!

~~~~~

Cooking your own silver beauties. I have been so impressed with people's enthusiasm over my barbecued sardines that I decided to offer an easy recipe for those who want to try cooking them at home. Watch out - you're sure to get hooked!

Stuffed Sardines Recipe
6 large Monterey sardines
1 1/2 cups seasoned bread crumbs
1/4 cup raisins
2 T pine nuts
1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese
olive oil
1/4 cup dry white wine
1 lemon; quartered
salt and pepper to taste

First, prepare the sardines by cutting off the heads, then gut and scale. Remove backbone by

running your thumb up and down spine. Butterfly the sardines by laying them open. Mix the bread crumbs, raisins, pine nuts, cheese. Then season the mixture with salt and pepper. Brush olive oil on the sardines. Set aside 1/4 cup of bread mixture and fill the sardine cavities with the remaining mixture. Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees. Roll the sardines from head to tail and place in a baking dish. Sprinkle with white wine and additional bread crumb mixture. Bake for 20 to 30 minutes or until sell done. Serve with lemon garnish and enjoy.

Q). Dear Chef, I was watching your show (Feb. 10, 2005), and I saw you preparing what looked like a gigantic crab. If I am correct, please send me all the information you can on the recipes and how to cook them.  Via e-mail

A). It would be next to impossible to get that crab. The crab you saw is from Australia and is called an Australian King. They are caught in extremely deep water in the Tasmanian Trench. Although they look impressive, the meat to shell ratio was very bad. You can't eat the shell, brother! Stick with our Dungeness, it's the best.

Readers: What every serious home cook should have is the electric Spit-Jack Rotisserie. Use it to cook in front of your fireplace. I have an authentic one from France that is 200 years old and it still is in great working condition (I've done TV shows with it). These are great units. Check out their web site www.spitjack.com.

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Q). Dear Chef Pisto, What is the difference between dry-aged and wet-aged beef? I heard that there is not much dry-aged beef available on the West Coast. What gives?
Steakeater
Via e-mail

A). Great question, Steakeater. Beef is aged by storing the meat anywhere from 7 to 28 days. The aging process enhances the tenderness as enzymes break down connective tissue in the meat. Both wet and dry-aging occur at approximately 36 degrees F. Wet aging takes place in sealed polyethylene bags; dry aging occurs in open air with humidity adjusted to between 50 percent and 75 percent, which results in greater dehydration and yield loss, but imparts a more intense flavor. Dry-aging is a much older method. Wet aging was invented as a means of transporting beef to the west coast and since has become the preferred taste out here. The nutty,

earthy flavor produced by dry-aging is very different and the preference of easterners.

Q). Dear Chef Pisto, We are students at UCSC and love your show! Please give us a recipe for Brussels sprouts that taste good, my buddies don't believe it's possible.
Via e-mail

A). I know a lot of Brussels sprouts are grown in our area. These little babies can kind of stink up the house, but the texture is habit forming and they are both delicious and highly nutritious. Try this one:


Brussels Sprout Salad Recipe
3 lbs Brussels sprouts (trimmed and halved)
3/4 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup whole grain mustard
1 1/2 T. red wine vinegar
2/3 cup walnuts toasted roughly chopped
2/3 cup sundried tomatoes thinly sliced
salt and pepper to taste

Cook the Brussels sprouts in boiling salted water until just tender in the center. Remove and immediately shock ice water stop them cooking and to retain the color. Drain thoroughly. Combine the mayonnaise, mustard and red wine vinegar in a mixing bowl and whisk together. Add the Brussels sprouts, walnuts and sun-dried tomatoes to the dressing mixture and stir to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Viewers: GoodLife TV, which has internationally televised Monterey's Cookin Pisto Style for the past several years, is now called AmericanLife TV Network. They are still running the show twice daily, five days a week. Starting this week, I'll let you know what show is running locally on channel 20. I'm very excited about this week's show from Alaska featuring lifestyle guru Andrew Weil, which is all about wild Alaska and wild salmon.

For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants
in Monterey, California, click here.

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