Ask the Chef

June 29, 2005  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Folks, in a few days we will celebrate the birth of the greatest nation on earth. We will also celebrate the beginning of grilling season. To help get you started, here are some grilling-related letters from the past few years. So fire up the grill and try something new this year.

Q). Do you have a good recipe for grilled artichokes? Thank you for your help.
Kelly Purves
Via e-mail

A). After cooking artichokes for many, many years, I think the steamed (or boiled) ones are the best preparation. However, here is a Grilled Artichoke Recipe:
Boil some medium size artichokes in salted water. They are cooked when a fork can be pierced easily through the bottom. Cool them and cut in half. Using a stove top grill (or a Webber), oil the cut side of the choke with olive oil. Place the cut side down and char it a bit. Turn it

over and repeat. Serve with garlic mayonnaise. Great smoky flavor!

Q). When I am really hungry, I go out for cheeseburgers. The waiter asks how I want it cooked and I'm thinking medium (50/50 pink). Recently, as usual, it was overcooked and I couldn't figure out how to fit the wedge of pickle into it. Why can't cooks double check before it goes out to see that it is right? Hamburger orders should be treated like steak. What is your explanation?

Joe Aiello, Monterey

A). Sounds like a craving to me Jo-Jo. Wedged pickles don't cut it, your right. Here is the perfect burger: Grilled 4 oz. (no more) with 20% fat, cooked medium. Sesame bun buttered and grilled until the edges are brown and crisp. Meat on bottom bun, then iceberg lettuce (not too much), a thin slice of tomato (thin, I said), then a thin slice of red onion and finally three slices of dill pickle - not two, not

four - three! Top with a shot of old-fashioned prepared mustard and a dash of Heinz ketchup. Now put on the top bun and gently squeeze down with the palm of your hand cupped slightly. Wrap in wax paper or thin foil and let sit until everything gets warm - about five minutes. Get four or five napkins, open the foil and take a bite - it should drip like crazy. Now Jo, you try that. A good burger is indeed like a good steak and cooking a burger medium is not as easy as you might think. It should be removed at about medium-rare because it continues to cook after leaving the grill (ask for medium-rare next time). Another reason burgers are not juicy is one of my biggest peeves in the world. It's the cook with the spatula! Cooks love to squeeze the juice out because it flares up on the grill, cooks faster and they like to test for firmness. If you are courageous enough to request that your burger not be squeezed, give it a try. In case you didn't know, cooks can be temperamental.

~~~~~

Here's one for trying something new: Pisto's Barbecued Sweetbreads Recipe. Ask your butcher for some nice veal sweetbreads - they are the best. Trim the silver and poach the sweetbreads in water with a little salt and vinegar for 45 minutes. Peel off the outer membrane and break the meat into pieces about the size of an egg. Skewer them alternating with slices of onions and bay leaf. Brush with olive oil (or butter) then season with salt
and pepper. Grill till crisp on the outside, being careful not to burn them. They cook pretty fast. Finish with a garlic vinaigrette - fantastic!

Q). What's an easy way to test the temperature of my steaks? I like them a perfect medium- rare.
Christine H., San Jose

A). There are a couple of ways. This is the one taught by chefs: Hold your left hand out flat. Now, using your thumb and index finger of your

right hand, squeeze the fleshy part between the thumb and the first knuckle of your left hand. When your left hand is relaxed, that is the amount of give your steak would have if it is rare. Close your left hand half way and that is medium. Hand closed completely is well-done. The easiest way is to make a small cut in the thickest part of the steak with a sharp knife. Don't cut into it too much - only about a half-inch. Now that's really easy.

~~~~~

Q). I recently have been fishing in the bay and would like to know what is your favorite recipe for grilled salmon? Thanks for your help and I love your show and your restaurants are the best!
Dave, Via e-mail

A). This one is the best and the easiest. First fillet your fish and remove the pin bones with tweezers. Cut into 8 to 10 oz. steaks. If possible use a grill pan, like mine, or heavy cast iron pan
will work great. Next, heat the pan for 10 minutes on medium and season the fish with Sensational Seasonings or any seasonings of your choice. Put the fish on and leave it alone. You only need to turn it once. If it's real thick, brown both sides and throw in a 350 degrees oven until it flakes, about 10 minutes. Serve with fresh lemon wedges, a green salad, some potato salad and - bingo you're a hero! It's late spring, when a man's fancy turns to, you guessed it, of course I'm talking about grilling!
One thing I had never written about is the pleasure of grilling vegetables. Take asparagus for example. If you have never tried them grilled, you will simply not believe the results. Just toss them with some olive oil, salt and pepper. Put them on your grill, let their natural sugars caramelize into beautiful grill marks and you're done. Do the same with bell peppers, eggplant, zucchini and onions - you name it and you can grill it!
For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants
in Monterey, California, click here.

Pisto Home Page  ♦ Current Article  ♦ Index of Articles, Recipes and Subjects