Ask the Chef

June 22, 2005  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Q). I love your show and your guests! I watch you on Adelphia Cable, here in Atascadero, Ca. could you do a show on the lost art of tomato clam chowder, or do you already have a recipe that you could post?

Wayne, Via e-mail

A). What you're talking about is what is referred to as "Manhattan" clam chowder. Here's a bit of history that I dug up: Apparently, tomato-based clam chowders came about with the new-found popularity of the tomato in the mid-1800s and the large population of Italians in New York and the Portuguese fishing

communities of Rhode Island. By the 1930s, this tomato version had come to be called Manhattan clam chowder. Chef James Beard, known as the father of American cooking, called it "that rather horrendous soup called Manhattan clam chowder. . . resembles a vegetable soup that accidentally had some clams dumped into it." Actually, Manhattan chowder can be delicious and, thanks to your inspiration, I'll do my next show on red chowder. In the mean time, here's a recipe you can try:
Manhattan Clam Chowder Recipe
1 pint shucked clams
1 cup tomato and clam juice cocktail
2 potatoes, cleaned and chopped
1 cup chopped green bell pepper
1/4 cup chopped green onions
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 (14.5 ounce) can Italian-style diced tomatoes
Chop clams, reserving juice; set clams aside. Strain clam juice to remove bits of shell. Measure juice; add enough water to equal 1 1/2 cups liquid. Combine clam juice mixture, clam-tomato juice cocktail, potatoes, bell peppers, scallions and black pepper in large saucepan; heat to a boil. Reduce heat; cover and simmer for about 15 minutes or until potatoes are just tender. Stir in the undrained tomatoes and the chopped clams and heat through.

~~~~~

The Death Caps are here! In last week's column I warned about dogs and Death Cap mushrooms. The following day, mushroom expert Dick Morrison was quoted saying they are out of season. I have news for you Dick; I found six of them growing in my yard this week. So, watch out, they are not yet out of season.

More stories about Gia. While having a fabulous and elegant dinner at L'Auberge Carmel, my 21-year-old daughter was making conversation and mentioned that she and her girlfriends recently found a nude beach down south. "Nude beach, nude beach?!" I said, kind of perturbed. "Oh, don't worry Dad; we stayed behind the rocks the whole time.

No local, commercial salmon until next month, but if you know sport fishermen bringing some home, tell him or her about this recipe. Folks, this is for the real salmon lovers:
Salmon Liver Pate Recipe
Salmon livers may be frozen until you have accumulated the one pound necessary for this recipe.
6 T. unsalted butter
3 minced garlic cloves
1 small chopped onion
1 t. dried tarragon
1 t. dried rosemary
1/2 t. dried savory
1/2 t. dried thyme
1 pound salmon livers
6 cups water
12 peppercorns
2 bay leaves
leafy tops of 4 celery stalks
1/4 t. allspice
1/2 t. salt
1/2 t. pepper
6 T. dry sherry
Melt butter in a skillet and add garlic, onion, tarragon, rosemary, savory and thyme. Sauté until onions are tender. Cook that salmon livers by placing peppercorns, bay leaves and celery in water; bring to a boil and simmer 10 minutes. Add livers and simmer 5 minutes more (10 minutes for large livers). Remove livers with slotted spoon; discard water, celery and spices. Puree onion/herb mixture and salmon livers in a food processor, adding allspice, salt and pepper. Add sherry gradually until mixture is smooth and of a spreadable consistency. Place in a decorative 2-cup crock and refrigerate for several hours. Pate will become stiffer after refrigeration. Remove about half and hour before serving. Serves 6.

~~~~~

Q). We really enjoy your food news column in the Herald. I've tried many of your recipes and found them to be very good. Two questions: 1.Do you have access to recipes to food for diabetics? If so, could you print a few? Anything will do. 2. Several years ago I had a salad of spinach leaves and mandarin oranges. It was wonderful, but I cannot come up with what the dressing was. Any answers?

M. J. Wemheuer, Monterey

A). This would work for you M.J., 1/2 cup of pure peanut oil, 1 tsp roasted sesame oil, a bit of soy sauce to taste, sugar (or Splenda) and rice vinegar to taste - that should work.

There are many books with recipes for diabetics. Try getting a copy of Atkins Diabetes Revolution or The Diabetic Bible (local author) I'm no doctor, so if I were you and I would find out as much as possible about diabetes. Here's an easy recipe:

Salmon en Papillote with Tomato-Basil Relish Recipe
Makes 2 servings
2 large Roma tomatoes, seeded and diced (1 cup)
2 T. fresh basil, julienned
2 T. shallots, finely chopped
2 t. garlic, minced
2 t. extra virgin olive oil
1 t. lemon juice
Dash of cayenne pepper
1/4 tsp salt
1 cup loosely packed spinach leaves
2 (6-ounce) wild or farmed salmon fillets, skinned
2 (10x15-inch) pieces of aluminum foil
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Mix the first 8 ingredients in a small bowl, set aside. Place half of the spinach leaves in the center of foil. Lay one piece of salmon on top of the spinach. Spoon half of the tomato mixture over the fish. Fold foil over and seal edges securely. Repeat. Cook packets for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the fish is opaque in the center. Note: You can prepare the packets ahead of time
and keep them in the refrigerator. Allow 10 to 15 minutes more cooking time. To cook the salmon in parchment, cut two piece of parchment paper, each 12 x 16 inches. Fold in half to form 12 x 8-inch rectangles. Cut half-shaped heart away from the fold on each piece, and then unfold to create 2 full hearts. Lay the open heart on the pan and spray lightly with cooking spray. Layer the spinach, fish, and topping on half of the heart as directed. Fold the remaining flap of the heart over the fish to create a package. Seal by turning the edges under one small portion at a time, starting at the top and working to the point, creasing and overlapping at each turn as you work your way down the "package". Bake as directed. Place the packet onto plates and allow your guests to open them.
For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants
in Monterey, California, click here.

Pisto Home Page  ♦ Current Article  ♦ Index of Articles, Recipes and Subjects