Ask the Chef

July 20, 2005  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Q). Recently, I tasted a braciole you made for your neighbor, Joe Cricchio. How did you make it?

Your other neighbor, Monterey

A). Folks, did I ever tell you the story of my parents moving here from New York in 1940? Well, my parents, two sisters and myself (just a little squirt), move to Monterey because the weather in Syracuse was terrible and my Dad's sister, husband and cousins lived here. My Dad was a good old, country-trained tailor and Monterey was in need of one. Our first house was at the end of Clay Street and next door lived the Cricchio's and, on the other side were the Murray's who were nice to us, however, the Cricchio's were extra nice and I always remember my Mom and Dad saying, "Francis and Joe were our first friends on the peninsula and never forget it,

Johnny." Well guess who lives next door to me now? That's right, Joe Cricchio. What goes around, comes around. Joe is a senior citizen now (and so am I, pretty soon anyway), always upbeat and cheerful and as friendly as ever. He loves watching my shows, especially the ones from Sicily. Now and again I can help him out a bit by cooking something for him. He loves pasta, so the other day I cooked some soup, short ribs and pasta with braciole (rolled flank steak cooked in the "gravy" meaning tomato sauce). Preparing braciole takes some work, but it is well worth it.

Braciole Recipe
Start with a piece of flank steak. Pound the hell out of it and spread it out. Rub it with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.
Next put down one layer of either prosciutto, salami or mortadella, then some long, pencil-sized slices of carrot, sliced hard boiled eggs and cover

with seasoned breadcrumbs that have been dampened with water. Now, roll up carefully, secure the ends with twine and roll up and tie (my mom used thread). Next, brown in some olive oil and salt and pepper. Remove after browning then add to the pan some diced celery, carrots, onions, garlic, parsley, basil and crushed red pepper. Cook for 10 minutes on medium heat and then add some red wine (no rot-gut), heirloom tomatoes that have been passed through a food processor and a dash of cinnamon sugar. Cover and cook on medium-low for two hours. Remove the braciole and take off the string. Slice into 3/4 -inch slices and place on a plate. Cook some penne pasta, drain and mix with the sauce. Serve the pasta with the meat as a second course and don't forget the pecorino. Oh, and one more thing - get well fast neighbor!

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Whenever I see a fabulous new product I love sharing it with you. The new product is a baby iceberg lettuce. It's the size of a softball and is very sweet tasting. Boggiatto Produce, Inc. in Salinas is the producer of this next great idea in the produce field. These "little babies" (great name boys!) are perfect portion-controlled pieces of lettuce. They can be used as a cup, or spread out like a lotus. and they divide easily for use in sandwiches. Tanimura & Antle brought us "little gem" (small crunchy baby romaine); D'Arrigo Bros. brought us broccoli
rabe; Mills Family Farms brought us packaged whole leaf lettuces; and now Boggatto has brought us these baby icebergs which we are now serving in all of our restaurants. Way to go boys! They're only available in food service establishments right now, but are coming to your grocery stores soon.

John's food tips: Love tomato and red onion salad? Buy only the flat Italian reds, they are the sweetest - the round ones are too hot! Corn off the cob - Use a sharp knife and cut the corn loose. Heat up with a little

water, sweet butter and fresh pepper. Great for people with dentures or those who don't like corn up their nose!

Last October someone threw a pumpkin in the street near my house and some of the seeds and flesh were scattered all around. Guess what? A giant pumpkin plant has now grown in the middle of our street with big, giant flowers and already two basketball-sized pumpkins. I'll keep watering it and maybe it will start growing upward.

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Now is the time for dipping all of these wonderful seasonal vegetables in your best olive oil. In Italy, this custom of eating raw vegetables dipped in oil is called "Pinzimonio" Try all of the tender, fresh vegetables you can get your hands on and remember to season your oil with a little salt and pepper.

Speaking of vegetables, a delicious sleeper is cabbage. Here's a favorite recipe of mine featuring:

Braised Savoy Cabbage and Anchovies. Serves 6.
2 1/2 pounds of Savoy cabbage
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 cloves garlic
1 cup water
2 cans of anchovies
salt and freshly ground pepper
Remove the hard stalks from the cabbage leaves and slice into strips about 3/4 of an inch wide. Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil. Add the cabbage and boil for 2 minutes. Drain and immediately
transfer to a bowl of iced water so that the leaves remain green. Drain and set aside. Warm the olive oil in a heavy pot over low heat. Add the garlic and fry gently until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the cabbage and the 1 cup of water. Cook over low heat until the water evaporates, about 30 minutes. Add the anchovies to the cabbage during the last 10 minutes of cooking. Season the cabbage lightly with salt and pepper, arrange on a platter and serve hot.
For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants
in Monterey, California, click here.

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