Ask the Chef

January 19, 2005  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Last chance for this Saturday's mushroom class. Just a couple of openings left to spend some time with world renowned shroomer David Arora and me for some collecting in the woods, finishing off with a wild mushroom field risotto ($75 per person - payment in advance please - 373-3778).

Every year, I get a nice present from the boys at Palermo Bakery, Rosario and Erasmo - two guys from Sicily. This time I got a CD with 16 songs sung by tenor Erasmo, the singing jewel of the peninsula. Mama-mia, can that boy sing! Thanks boys.

Q). Dear Chef Pisto,

Dear friends, Ann and Andy Gonzales of Monterey, were kind enough to send me a clipping of

your recent column suggesting crab consumers eat everything
inside the crab that looks like custard
. This is the first time I've read any publications directed at Americans - even Republicans, regarding this sound advice. That stuff that looks like custard is called the hepatopancreas by marine biologists and is to my mind the best part of the crab. Sicilian fishermen with whom I've conversed in Monterey and San Francisco echo the same advice, that crab "butter" inside the shell is the best and they have been enjoying it for generations. As a word of caution, however, I once read on a fisheries web site that this butter has been associated with cases of paralytic seafood poisoning (PSP) and that consuming it was not especially recommended. When I asked one of the Sicilian fishermen about that,
he said something in his great dialect that sounded like, "bull___!" Wondered if you have any thoughts on the subject. In any event, we'll be in Monterey soon and will come see you for crab, custard and all, on the Wharf.

Denis Rouse
Via e-mail

A). Denis, I do believe you would have to eat about ten pounds a day for a month for me to worry about it. The butter is so rich I can't eat more than six or seven crabs. So enjoy yourself! Try putting a shot of lemon or vinegar in the shell and then eat that butter. A far as Republicans, I've been called a black sock-wearing liberal, to which I reply, "What the hell are you talking about?" See you for crab and custard!

~~~~~

Q). Dear Chef,

My son has a restaurant in Carmel. He started cooking at the age of five, making pizzas and meatballs with his mother. I was wondering, did you get your recipes from your mom? When did you start cooking?
Toni Antonia
Via telephone

A). I started cooking in my early 20's when my cousin Nino had an Italian-Jewish deli in Millbrae, CA. He asked me to help him during a busy weekend and that's all it took and I was hooked. I loved the kitchen and the hard working people. From there it was off to chef's school to learn, learn, learn and I'm still learning. The people of the world are my teachers and every cuisine I've tasted has taught me something new. As for using my mom's recipes? - you bet, Toni. Don't you know that Italian mothers are the best cooks in the world?!

Chili on a chilly night! Last week my buddy Bobby V, called and said, "Don't cook - I've made a batch of my East Texas Chili." Halleluiah - chili on a cold rainy, windy night! Folks, it was delicious - way to go Bobby-boy. And here, folks, is his East Texas Chili Recipe: Ingredients:
5 lbs. Chuck
Oil
2 cans tomato sauce
32 oz. Water
2 cans diced green chilies
1 container Gebhardt's chili powder
2 Tbsp. Paprika
2 tsp. Oregano
2 tsp crushed cumin seeds
Salt & pepper, to taste
1 large onion, chopped
2 cups celery, chopped
10-15 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
2 + Tablespoons Tabasco (or your favorite fire water!) to taste
1/2 cup Masa Harina (or regular flour)
1 1/2 to 2 Cups warm water
4 cans of kidney beans (optional)
Shredded sharp cheddar cheese, chopped onions, chopped jalapenos
(optional)
Directions:
Put some oil in large pot; add onion, garlic, and celery and sauté on low heat. Add meat and sear until gray - don't brown. Add tomato sauce, 32 oz. water, and green chilies. Combine chili powder, paprika, salt, pepper, oregano, cumin, and warm water. Mix well and add to meat mixture. Simmer for several hours.

Add Tabasco (or your favorite) to taste. Mix Masa Harina (or flour) with warm water until smooth and add to pot. Add kidney beans (optional).

After 3 hours of cooking, check for salt and level of heat and adjust to taste with salt and Tabasco. Serve in bowls with shredded cheese mixed in, and optional fresh chopped onions and/or canned, diced jalapeños.

This chili is guaranteed to cure a hangover, kill any bacteria in your system, thin your blood and make you an honorary Texan!

~~~~~

I continue to receive mail regarding the farmed salmon issue. Below are two more examples. To be sure, this is a complicated subject. It's not just farmed vs. wild, it is also Chilean vs. Canadian and the distortion of facts to support whatever side someone is on. One thing I've learned is that this is a rapidly changing industry, like most these days and neither side is completely wrong or right. I say learn all you can, make up your own mind and watch out if you're conclusions are politically incorrect.

Dear Chef Pisto,
THANK YOU for the excellent and informative article on fresh vs. farmed salmon. I know there are many people who are grateful to you for clearing up this controversy.
Steve Bloch

R. Stephen Bloch, Esq.
Lt. Commander (Ret.), USN
Carmel Valley, CA
Via e-mail
 

Dear Chef Pisto,

Thank you very much for your informed opinion regarding farmed salmon. It is refreshing to know that there are people who look past the media hype to find out the facts on the products they consume. We here in BC who raise these products, know them for what they are and put our heart and soul into raising them. It is absolutely devastating to us to see the hyperbole that the media presents.
Richard Finch
Via e-mail

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