Ask the Chef

February 23, 2005  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Hot weekend trip! Head south to Atascadero, California for a stay at the Carlton Hotel. Wow, what a place! Old friend David Weyrich (Martin & Weyrich Winery, Paso Robles) has added another diamond to his belt. Remember Villa Toscana, his thirteen room bed and breakfast in Paso? Well his new hotel has the same high quality standards. In fact it borders on the unbelievable. The Carlton has two restaurants, a pastry shop, sushi bar, full bar and wines galore. Executive Chef Anthony Harris is doing an excellent job, producing some bold and flavorful food. How about a chicken pizza from the wood burning oven, or a pizza

done on the grill, which comes out crispy, with a variety of toppings? Our first lunch consisted of Manilla clams, lobster and crab cakes, two pizzas and some spicy calamari tossed in a great sauce. For the main dish, we had flank steak (a bit too much "texture" for me), vegetable soup and another order of clams. Too full for dessert - maybe next time. David, you've got another winner there, congratulations. Folks, do some wine tasting (in an area that now rivals Napa), enjoy the beautiful scenery (better than Napa) and stay at a first-class hotel with a restaurant like you would expect to find in San Francisco. The Carlton's fine dining restaurant
seats about 45 and feels like a super-exclusive club where even we met two ex-peninsulans (a Cardianale and an Enea).

Olive oil anyone? I'm talking about extra-virgin Tuscan oil, with so much flavor that it makes all others taste like water. I ran across it at the Willow Creek Olive Ranch just off of Highway 46 near Paso Robles. A food writer described it as "A superb oil - cloudy, green, full of grassy flavors. Made in Paso Robles, in the sharp Italian style with Frantoio, Pendolino, Lucca, Leccino and Moraiolo olives." Check it out at www.willowcreekoliveranch.com.

~~~~~

Q). Dear Chef Pisto,

My grandson recently started attending culinary school in San Francisco. We started talking squid one day and, much to my surprise, he told me that several of the chefs at school told him that they would NEVER pound squid before cooking it. Now, I have been cooking squid for over 40 years and every single time I've cooked it, I've pounded it first. Have I been doing it wrong all these years, or it the reason almost all the squid I get at restaurants is a little chewy? We have decided that what you tell us will be the right answer.

Eleanor Bray
Via e-mail
A). After 40 years of cooking squid, you should be teaching the class to those young whippersnappers! I agree, keep on pounding. It improves the texture a bit and provides you with some good mental exercise. Squid has a tough membrane that will benefit from a few good whacks.

Q). Why does the lemon meringue pie filling fail to set? It happened to me twice in the last week.
Cathy
Via e-mail

A). Ah ha! You know Cathy, people think pies are easy. I have found baking superior pies to be very tricky. I think my problem was two fold: First, the pie dish I used was a

monster. Not only was it very large, but I put the meringue on top immediately and browned the pie in the oven. Now I know if a cornstarch-thickened sauce or gravy gets too hot, they will break. So, in my case, it was a very large pie dish plus a large, hot volume of lemon filling covered and put it in a hot oven for 15 to 20 minutes that made it too hot. Bottom line, make small pies. Let cool 20 to 30 minutes then cover with meringue and finish in the oven. Like I said before, in baking there is little margin for error. Question: Here's a switch folks - I want to know about your favorite pie.

~~~~~

Q). In Mexico, and in most Mexican cantinas here also, the word "pisto" means alcoholic drink. Cerveza is beer as you well know but "pisto" can also mean drunk, and "pisto" means the person has had a lot to drink. When Mexicans meet in a cantina, one person will ask the other, "quieres una cerveza oh un pisto", which means: "you want a beer or a drink." Comprendes Juan Pisto?
Ernie Rodriguez, Via e-mail

A). Thank you mi amigo! Let's see if I've got this straight. In Mexico pisto means an alcoholic drink or someone who is drunk, or someone who has drunk a little

too much; In Spain, pisto means a vegetable stew; In Peru pisto could mean Pisco which is a brandy. In Italy it means an Italian family who original name was Pistos.

Q). I am a guide at the Aquarium and am frequently asked if fresh caught sardines are sold anywhere in the area and if any of the local restaurants serve them. I only know that sardines are frozen processed at a couple of places in Salinas. Can you tell me where I can direct people who want to buy them fresh
or have them at a restaurant? Thanks for your help.
Carol L. Voss, Prunedale
Via e-mail

A). Boy Carol, you have hit the jackpot! I have been trying to get people to at least taste these babies. We've even served them free just so people can see how delicious they are. I have Monterey sardines on the menu at Blue Moon on Cannery Row. They will be served barbecued - Sicilian style, so please send them on down. That's the ticket! You also can't find anything more loaded with omega 3.

For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants
in Monterey, California, click here.

Pisto Home Page  ♦ Current Article  ♦ Index of Articles, Recipes and Subjects