Ask the Chef

February 2, 2005  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Q). Hi John,
We find that we are using cast iron cookware more and more for our ranch barbecues. We use various skillets and Dutch ovens which we periodically re-season. Should we be concerned about health issues with the iron leaching into the food? P.S. Bobby V’s East Texas Chili was fantastic cooked in a Dutch oven!
Andy Briant
Sandy Creek Olive Ranch, Via e-mail

A). From what I understand, using cast iron cannot harm you. You should only be concerned if you are starting to rust! As for the chili, I’ll pass along your compliment to Bobby-boy – he will be pleased.

Because I have dared to say something positive about farmed salmon, now I have been accused by Bree Nehring (Letters to the Editor, Monterey Herald) of not supporting my neighbors in the local fishing industry. People like Bree love to stir up emotions - a typical tactic of activist groups. You folks have become closed minded and continue to spread false claims. The real tragedy is that you are frightening consumers. As for my support of our local fishing industry, let’s check that out. Over the years I have bought hundreds of thousands of tons of Monterey squid, local salmon, shrimp (introducing it to the public), Dungeness, halibut and sea bass. I could go on and on as I am one of the biggest buyers of local seafood

in Monterey - millions of dollars over the years. My research has shown me that farmed salmon is safe to eat and has its place in our seafood diet, as does our local salmon when available. Stop spreading lies and check out my web site www.pisto.com for yourself. Folks, consider the pros and cons and I’m positive you will see that farmed salmon is a safe, inexpensive and healthy food. I’m for being a sensible environmentalist and so should you.

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Q). Dear Chef Pisto,

I’ve heard farmed and wild salmon both contain PCBs. Farmed salmon is a more affordable option than wild, but are the PCB levels safe? Could you clear up the confusion?
Jeremy Twigg, Via e-mail

A). There’s been a lot of talk about trace amounts of PCB’s in both farmed and wild salmon. Continuing my research, I found this useful article by ecologist Dr. Patrick Moore. His syndicated columns are called The Sensible Environmentalist.

The Facts on Farmed
By Dr. Patrick Moore

Some environmental groups are using a recent study of PCBs in salmon to support their general position against fish farming. The problem is, they’ve completely disregarded the conclusions of the study’s authors—that levels of  PCBs in farmed salmon are well within the safety guidelines set by the U.S. Food and Drug Admin-istration.

To give you an example, the Food and Drug Administration has set PCB safety levels at 2000 parts per billion (ppb). Meanwhile, the numbers in the study ranged from just one to three percent of that amount.

It is unfortunate that our food contains trace amounts of PCBs, but they’re found in farmed salmon for the same reason they’re found in wild salmon, beef, chicken, milk and many other foods: they’ve accumulated in small amounts in the food chain. In fact, the levels of PCBs in our food have been reduced by 90 percent over the past 30 years due to pollution control and cleaner industrial processes.

The tragedy in all this is that consumers are being frightened away from one of the healthiest food choices they can make. Farmed salmon is rich in Omega 3  fatty acids, which are proven to help prevent heart disease and may reduce the risk of Alzheimer’s. If people eat less farmed salmon, there is a very real concern that they will not get sufficient amounts of this important nutrient.

The good news is that, while certain groups continue to spread false claims, clear statements of support have been issued by the National Cancer Institute, the National Academy of Sciences, the American Council on Science and Health, the American Heart Association, the World Health Organization and the National Fisheries Institute.

Consumers can’t be expected to analyze every study that comes along. But I believe that a sensible environmentalist would look at the facts of this case and continue to include farmed salmon as part of a healthy diet.

A founder of Greenpeace, Dr. Patrick Moore holds a PhD in ecology and a BSC in forest biology. He is Chairman and Chief Scientist of Greenspirit Strategies Ltd., a consulting firm in Vancouver, B.C. www.greenspiritstrategies.com

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Q). When I was a little girl, my father would bring home fresh anchovies and roll them in flour and cornmeal and fry them in olive oil. I can’t find fresh anchovies anywhere, and I live at the beach. I am coming to Monterey for a few days. Do they have them there for purchasing? Thank you.

Sara Arellano, Via e-mail

A). Anchovies are unfortunately very perishable and yet they are a fabulous food – why, even other

fish eat them. They can run all year, according to my buddy Buster Crab at Monterey Fish Company, so are usually available. Check with Buster when you get to Monterey and cherish those memories, dear Sara. I have tried to promote our fabulous local anchovies and sardines and I couldn’t give them away. For the most part, Americans just don’t want to eat fish “in the round” like the rest of the world. No skin, no head or bones, just a nondescript piece of protein, edible from end to end. Because of this attitude, a lot

of flavor is sacrificed and prices are driven up.

My own farm – well, almost. David Bunn of The Farm in Salinas will be growing 35 different vegetables for me and my restaurants. How does three different varieties of fennel sound? Or caper bushes, white celery, black cabbage, real Italian eggplant or the famous “sperpente di Siclia” squash - growing up to three feet long. Plus arugula and giant chard. Man, oh man, I can’t wait for summer!

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