Ask the Chef

December 21, 2005  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Q). Hello, I've been in Monterey 4 years ago. I've discovered a meal with white soup in a piece of bread, it was excellent. I would like to know if you can help me to have the recipe? It's very important for me, my English is not so good. I'll hope that it's possible. Thank you very much.
Via e-mail

A). I hope you're not pulling my leg. I do believe you are referring to clam chowder in a bun. Being that your English is limited I would think your cooking of American food would be different, so I recommend that you buy

some canned clam chowder. The brand Snow's is very good. So heat the chowder following directions on the can. Have ready a small sourdough roll that you have cut the top and scooped out the inside. Fill with clam chowder and place on a plate and there you are!

Curiosity got the best of me the other day. While at Del Monte Produce, I saw these beautiful yams and sweet potatoes and wondered, which was the best? In the red corner were those known as "garnet" and "jewel" (for making pies), which are red outside and yellow inside. In the yellow corner

was the Japanese variety - red outside and yellow inside and the one with light brown skin and yellow flesh known simply as the sweet potato. That night I roasted all four and the best were the yellow ones; next were the jewel and last was the garnet. I must say however, the reds were sure a nice color, but for eating it's just a slice of the roasted yellow, about 1 inch thick, with a bit of unsalted butter - man is that good! For some history: Yams are native to Africa (150 varieties) and not in the same family as sweet potatoes.

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Q). Lost my instructions for cooking prime rib with a salt jacket. Would appreciate your recipe/info. on cooking a prime rib using this technique.
Harriet Sundblad, Via e-mail

A). What makes a great roast is the crust. Place your roast into a large oven proof pot and cover the whole thing with coarse salt. Don't use regular table salt - it will only produce salty tasting beef. For and extra-flavorful crust, you should include my seasoning. Use an electric thermometer and cook to an internal temperature of 144 degrees for rare; 145 for medium-rare; or 150 degrees for medium.

After cooking, allow your roast to rest for 20 minutes so it retains its juices when you carve it.

Q). I'm looking for a recipe from your TV show last night (12/12/05). It had risotto made into balls, deep-fried. Do you have the recipe online? Please let me know.
Thanks.
Diane, Via e-mail

A). This terrific dish is called Arancini di riso. Here's the Arancini di Riso Recipe: Sauté 1 1/2 lb. hamburger, 1 large onion (chopped), 6 garlic cloves (diced), olive oil, salt and pepper for 10 minutes. Add a 28oz. can Italian tomatoes in puree 

(break them up by hand) then add 2 or 3 tbsp. of tomato paste. Add 2 cups of peas and cook until thick (20 min.). Boil 1 lb. of Arborio rice in salted water and cook until it is not al dente (soft but not mushy). Drain rice, add 2 cups of parmesan or Pecorino and some butter and let it get cool enough to handle. Cup a layer of rice in your hand and add some sauce then carefully cover with more rice and shape it into a ball. Make a bunch and set aside. Heat olive oil in a 3-inch deep pan to 350 degrees. Roll balls in breadcrumbs and carefully drop into hot oil and brown nicely. Serve warm or room temperature.

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Christmas Eve at the Pisto's 1950's. Relatives would arrive from San Francisco, Aunts, Uncles and Cousins. My Dad made sure we had plenty of Four Roses, C.C. or V.O. on hand along with homemade wine and soft drinks. It begins! Around 4 o'clock things started. While the women cooked, the men ate clams and oysters in the half shell. This was done standing up around the sink. Also present was homemade olives and lots of salted salmon and, of course, Italian bread. The women were busy cooking and dodging kids and the men, as all of the action was in the kitchen. The Dinner: Everyone sat down and the women would start with the food: First round was baccala cioppino - not everyone's favorite so there was also cracked crab with vinegar, oil and garlic. If brother- -in-law John showed, we would

have broiled spiny lobster (he was fishing in Port Hueneme), tuna or sardines. Next came the fried stuff: breaded oysters and shrimp along with octopus, squid salad and steamed clams. Afterward, we would munch on platters full of wedged sweet anis which helped everything settle. Christmas Eve was also the time my Dad
would taste the new wines. We always had a couple of barrels in the basement and this was a blast - all my uncles also made wines and the arguing about who's was the best was a riot to watch. I remember one year the wine was so strong that after tasting it, all the men went upstairs and took a nap. So on with the big night. Next came Christmas cookies and cannoli - all homemade shells of course! Man, were those good. My cannoli filling at the Whaling Station is still the same recipe.

Next clear the table and get the blanket - it's poker time! 25 cents limit, this way no one could get hurt. Now the visitors would start showing up and paying their respects or maybe just making the rounds of the neighborhood for a highball and a few hands of poker. The ladies would visit, then they would be on to the next house. At
about 11:20 it was Midnight Mass time (another good time to socialize and get invited to a friend's house) then it's back to poker, fried baccala fritters and barbecued homemade sausages - and whatever was left over. Everyone would go home around 2 or 3 am. Then we would open presents and go to bed - tomorrow is another day, but Christmas Eve was the best of them all! Have a great Christmas and be nice to each other!

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