Ask the Chef

December 7, 2005  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Q). We like to prepare seafood during Christmas. Can you advise where to buy the freshest local products? Any tips on preparation?
Via-email

A). Royal Seafood and Monterey Fish Company, both located on Monterey's Wharf #2, have whole petrale sole, local swordfish and fresh-cooked crab. Super-fresh crab at $4.00 per pound (weather permitting), that's a great deal. Speaking of petrale sole, boy was that a popular dish a few years ago. Petrale filets grilled in butter with sliced almonds, lemon and garlic (abalone style was extremely popular). What a great  fish - sweet, delicate and no bones. What most of us Americans don't realize is that the best way to cook petrale is baked whole, gutted, scaled and

head-on in a simple combination of apple cider, shallots, butter and a splash of fresh lemon. Once the fish is cooked, which takes 15-20 minutes in a 350-degree oven (make sure the broth is hot when you add to the fish), it will filet very easily down the lateral lines and you will end up with four beautiful filets. Reduce the pan juices by half and spoon over the filets, and now you are eating fish the way it was meant to be eaten. Just don't eat the head, fins or bones.

Add to the list of the Peninsula's good cooks, John Lockridge of Pebble Beach. Grilled rack of lamb with vegetables and a nice dessert by wife Erica. John is a wildcatter who hunts for gas and oil and he knows the secret of using the best ingredients prepared simply. Speaking of gas, make sure to always cook beans until they are

really done - not al dente. Give them a good soaking and then slow, long cooking otherwise you will know why they are sometimes called whistle-berries.

Hot tip. Carrots are at their peak right now and they are the best I have ever tasted. Recently I made a three-legume stew and added triple the amount of carrots. It was almost too sweet and I had to add some vinegar to jack it up a bit.

Calling all Italian ladies, women and girls! Time to fire up your cookie engines, get those recipes ready and knock out some sesame cookies, fig cookies, chocolate balls, dead bones and real anise biscotti. And, those of you who know some Italian ladies, be real nice and they will give you a taste.

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Q). We were at your wonderful Blue Moon Restaurant. It was sooo good and we loved the crab risotto with peperini pasta . I tried to make it at home and it tasted nothing like yours, I failed. For Christmas dinner we traditionally serve abalone and I think your crab risotto de peperni would be perfect. Please, please will you share your recipe thanks so much for your time happy holidays!
Bonnie Manicki
Newport Beach, California

A). Hi Bonnie, did you ever hear the story about the time my  
grandmother was on her death bed and she was barely breathing, I mean she was ready to go. "Johnny boy, please tell me the recipe for the crab risotto that you make at the Luna Blu." (that's blue moon in Italian). Grandma, I love you and I'll miss you, but I can't - she replied in a weak squeaky voice, "You always were a son of a b _ _ _ _." Sorry Bonnie, I won't give that recipe to you either, but here is something pretty close and very tasty.

Fresh Crab Risotto
One pound of rice equals 6-8 servings. 1 1/2 quarts of light

chicken stock and 1/2 quart of crab stock made from shells of picked crab. Sauté one large onion and 2 cloves of garlic, chopped fine in 1/2 butter and 1/2 olive oil. Add 1 pound of Arborio rice and sauté for five minutes. Season with salt and pepper, and then begin adding the stock one ladle at a time. In about 20 minutes the rice should be al dente. Now the secret - add the fresh picked meat of 3-4 crabs and fold it in gently. Add 1/2 cup heavy cream and 2 tablespoons of sweet butter. Let rest for 5 minutes and serve with a lemon wedge on the side.

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For Christmas everyone should give something to eat and drink. How about saffron or 5 lbs. of swordfish or crabs. Doesn't that make a lot of sense? Also, check out Andy's Orchard web site (www.andysorchard.com) for some great things that he is doing with his dried fruit, including jam with big chunks of his cherries and peaches. First class stuff. Everything grown on his property in Morgan Hill (408) 782-7600 I highly recommend.

Q). Hi, John! We just returned from Venice, Italy where we had a delicious, leafy green, single stem

lettuce they called "Rocket." It tasted great as a bed of greens for cold sardine and onion salad and lots of other dishes, too. Can we get "rocket" now that we're back home in Pacific Grove?
Via e-mail

A). You bet you can. This peppery green is also called arugula. Some are more peppery than others. Personally for me the hotta the betta! Use as a salad or lightly sauté for any meat dish, use in sandwiches or place on pizza after it's cooked! The Italians have a great fondness for it. If you don't see it, ask for it!

Just in time for the holidays - the perfect gift for that cooking man. Monterey's Cookin' aprons in solid black (better to hide your mess) with gold embroidery.

Get ready for me to reveal what southern Italian cooking is all about. "Christmas Eve Dinner" featuring recipes from my sister Jo, myself and mama-mia. God bless her! Also, next week - Italian cookie recipes and the ever-popular Turducken recipe, for which I have received a number of requests.

For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants
in Monterey, California, click here.

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