Ask the Chef

August 24, 2005  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Q). John, I love your column (and the Blue Moon). A few years ago, I read your column where you volunteered your brother-in-law's phone number for anyone who wanted to learn how to make salted anchovies. Boy, was he steamed. "He did what? He published my phone number in the paper?" After he got over the shock, he invited me over and showed me how. However, I have had a terrible time trying to get anchovies. Two questions: 1) Where can one find large anchovies? 2) I had mentioned to some friends that tri-tip is not commonly available on the east coast. This turned into a long debate and a high stake bet of one dollar. The bet is "Tri-tip is not commonly available on the east coast." Who is correct and how can I find the proof? Enquiring minds would like to know.
Lance Monosoff, Via email

A). As for my brother in law, now you know why we call him "the lion". He is a natural teacher and sometimes has a big bark and no bite. The trouble with anchovies is that you never know when they catch them, but you can salt other fish too - salmon for instance. Our local commercial fisherman fish in Alaska and bring back five-gallon tubs of salted sockeye which they treasure like gold. It is very good, however if you have high blood pressure, I recommend you don't eat a lot of it. If you are sure you want to do this, give John M. a call (372-2655) and he will help you.

You win the tri-tip bet. Also known as sirloin triangle tip or triangle sirloin, this cut is popular in California, but you might have trouble finding it elsewhere. This is a very flavorful cut that's great for barbecuing as long as you take pains to keep the meat from getting too tough. The trick is to not trim

the fat until the roast is cooked so that the juices can tenderize the meat. When it's done, slice it thinly against the grain. Most tri-tip is shipped out here, to the Western U.S., where it is very popular. Tri-tip is even included in many West Coast barbecue competitions as an optional category. It is often associated with California's central coast region and the Santa Maria Valley in particular, where "Santa Maria-style" tri-tip is the meat of choice. In a tradition going back to the days of Spanish rancheros, the meat is heavily seasoned with salt, pepper and garlic, cooked slowly over a red oak fire, then sliced and served with fresh salsa, cooked pinquito beans, guacamole and warm tortillas.

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Q). Being a local guy, I know you don't own a fried chicken joint! We do enjoy your restaurants, especially Abalonetti's for calamari. I love Marty's!  My question is, where is there a good fried chicken place in the Monterey area. Don't say the KFC word, John!
Mark C. Klein, Pacific Grove
Via email

A). Boy, do I love fried chicken. There's nothing like fried chicken made at home, depending on a few factors. I don't think everyone deep-fries it. I believe the best results come from is when it's done in a cast iron pan. Fried chicken, potato salad, sweet corn, Cole slaw - good stuff! Start with the best ingredients. For the chicken, I prefer small fryers. There's a new product called Smart Chicken that's not  processed in water, but air- dried
(Europe-style). Recently I did a test and, while the regular chicken was juicier, the Smart Chicken had slightly better flavor and was more condensed. Another benefit of Smart Chicken is that it will not spatter because of the low moisture content. Local fried chicken? Many years ago there was a place at the end of Fremont Street that had a big neon sign of a chicken in a roaster in the 1950's & 60's. It was a nice family-run restaurant with Grandma cooking in the back using a bunch of cast iron pots for frying. The menu consisted of roasted chicken, roasted duck and fried chicken and had only four or five tables. I remember the owner saying that she was doing this to put her children through college. I remember the cornbread and I remember that fabulous chicken and duck. Once the kids where out of college, she closed everything up. Too bad! What a jewel of a
place. Done properly, I think a good chicken restaurant would do well here. Got any spare time Mark?

Food tip: Never store or refrigerate fruits and vegetables in plastic bags - they will spoil very quickly and will turn to mush. They need to breathe. Tomatoes go especially fast. Store them in a cool, dark and open area.

Great News: Monterey's Cookin' Pisto Style is now shown in Hawaii! Aloha and Mahalo, braddahs!

Anyone interested in medicinal mushrooms? The International Medicinal Mushroom Conference will be held in Port Townsend, Washington from October 12 through the 17, and I'll be there cooking in my giant paella pan. For more information, check out www.fungi.com/immc.

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Q). You know those little grapes in the grocery store called "champagne grapes"? Do they really use them to make champagne?

Julie P.
Via e-mail

A). Interestingly enough, they are called that because, if you hold them up in a bunch, they look like the bubbles in a glass of champagne. Champagne and sparkling wines are most commonly made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes.
This should get you thinking folks, if you're in your late 50's or early 60's. Think of how you want to spend the rest of your life. I'm sure not everyone thinks about it too much, but friend Ted B. gave me some very sobering info. Let's say you're 60, it would be safe to say you can go until 80 in really good health, if you watch yourself. That translates to 20 summers, that's right only 20 summers. Now start writing down how you want to spend those twenty summers. Doesn't sound like much, does it? Sounds a bit gray - where's the sun damn-it! Enough of this gray!
Q). Recently I purchased some vanilla in Mexico. Why is it clear?
Alf, Monterey, Phoned in

A). I hope it didn't say it was "natural" because if the vanilla is clear that means it was made by combining propylene glycol or glycerin with artificial-vanillin. Also, Mexico has no truth in labeling regulations or any organization like our FDA. Many times the vanilla will contain artificial flavors or enhancers, such as coumarin, which is a carcinogenic product that has been outlawed by the FDA for the last 30 to 40 years.

For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants
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