Ask the Chef

August 17, 2005  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Q). I agree with you about hamburgers. I like 'em juicy too. Here's my gripe: I HATE shredded lettuce on my sandwich, hamburger, etc. I don't understand why we can't be offered the option of a whole leaf for our sandwich or burger. Chopped or shredded lettuce is an abomination.
Mark
Via e-mail

A). The option you are suggesting would make the kitchen crew crazier than they already are. Whole leaf or a nice piece of iceberg is the only way to go.

Reader feedback: About 18 months ago, I wrote and asked about a peanut butter meringue cookie. You answered me, however I was not able to make them until recently. WOW, were they a big hit at coffee hour at St. Paul's Church in Salinas. Very close to the ones I had made 40 years ago. Thank you so much.
Judith Marvel
Salinas

Better late than never Judy! 18 months ago? For those who might have missed it, here it is one more time:

Peanut Butter-Meringue Cookies Recipe
2/3 cup sifted confectioner's sugar
1/2 cup smooth peanut butter
Whites of 2 eggs, room temperature
1/2 cup chopped salted peanuts

Beat egg whites until stiff peaks form then set aside. In a mixing bowl, gradually add sifted confectioners' sugar to peanut butter until mixed well. Fold in beaten egg whites. Cover cookie sheets with brown paper, parchment paper, or silicone mats. Drop batter by teaspoonfuls onto paper. Sprinkle each cookie with chopped peanuts. Bake for 10 minutes at 375°; cool in pan then remove from paper. Makes 2 dozen cookies.

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Dear Chef,  Thanks for the tip on The Farm. My wife took my son there last week and the tomatoes were excellent. I am so happy to know there is fresh produce other than the farmers market in Salinas, as I fancy myself a cook and like to have diner parties on Fridays and Saturdays and did not know where to get the farm fresh stuff. My son picked out a 25 pound watermelon at The Farm. Anyways, cool newsletter and keep up the good work!
Jeff Renggli
Salinas

A). Right on Jeff! Folks, don't miss out on the best of the season - this it the time of year, so go out and enjoy.

Q). My husband and I love real buffalo mozzarella from Italy, but have been having difficulty finding it. Do you know where we can get
the good stuff?
Jane S., Via e-mail

A). One of the problems with the imported buffalo mozzarella is that it often sits too long going through customs. It must be as fresh as possible and by the time you find it, it's probably past it's prime. You got me thinking Jane, so I called Mike at the Carmel Cheese Shop. Lo and behold, Mike sells American mozzarella, made from the milk of the water buffalo. Let me tell you, I ate three balls of it right out of the package. White as porcelain, creamy, soft and a little tangy - heaven! I'm now serving it in all of my restaurants teamed up with our own heirloom tomatoes. By the way, because this cheese is produced by way of a natural fermentation, it is lactose free and has zero carbs. Call the Cheese Shop (625-2272). This is the find of the year!
Q). I feel very fortunate. My nice neighbor is a sport fisherman and lately he has been sharing rock cod filets with us. Do you have any favorite recipes?
Joe M.
Monterey
Via e-mail

A). Lucky you, fish lover, enjoy it while you can. Our bay is loaded with all types of rock fish. It's too bad we all can't enjoy fish in the round (whole fish). There is so much waste when a fish is filleted, but American's don't like bones, "Ick, a bone in my fish!" - Come on folks, learn to eat whole fish. The secret to eating whole fish is to use your front teeth, this way you get the bone before you choke on them. The fish actually tastes better and is much moister. Just gill, gut, scale the fish and cook it up.

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To get started, here's one delicious way to prepare a whole fish. Boil some potatoes, allow to cool, slice 1/4 inch and lay on a sheet pan. Sauté some onions and garlic in olive oil with a bit of thyme, one bay leaf and a ripe tomato. Place this mixture over the potatoes. Next, oil the whole fish all over carefully and then season with salt, pepper and a little thyme. Be sure to season the cavity too. Now place fish on top of the potatoes and bake at 350 degrees until done. Check right behind the gill (thickest part) in about 25 minutes. The fish should flake and be just past opaque - don't over cook! Using a spatula, start at the tail and remove a filet going right along the main bone. Plate it up with some of the potatoes and a little juice 
from the bottom of the pan. Make a simple sauce of 3 parts extra virgin olive oil and 1 part lemon juice, salt and pepper. Some cold white wine, an heirloom tomato salad, some crispy bread and you will be eating like a king. And don't forget to get those fish bones with your front teeth. Now that's what I call saving resources and not wasting them, you can do it.

Sergio at Monte Vista Market asked about O' Henry peaches, what are they?

Well Sergio, I called Andy, the stone fruit expert in Morgan Hill (408) 782-7600. O'Henry's were developed in the 1970's in California and are a cross between peaches and nectarines. The difference between a nectarine and a peach is
the fuzz. If you got fuzz you're a peach, hence peach fuzz - no fuzz you're a nectarine. Have you ever heard of nectarine fuzz? Peaches started out mostly all yellow and have been bred to have a blush because they look better. What would you buy a solid yellow peach or a peach with a blush? The O'Henry's surface is covered by seventy to ninety-five percent red blush and is available end of July through August. Tree-ripened stone fruit is the best because, unlike bananas and pears, the sugars don't develop after picking. Stones must be picked with all the sugar already developed. So Sergio, any peach can be delicious if it is grown with care and picked at the right time when the sugar has developed to the max.
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