Ask the Chef

August 10, 2005  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Help along the way: Talking about mentors, another person who has helped mold me is my brother-in-law Jean Mercurio (a.k.a. Leoni, Frenchi, John, Johneau and Giovanni). Jean is from Sicilian stock, but was born and raised in Algeria. While our great grandparents migrated to the U.S. and Southern America, his went to North Africa. He loves to tell everyone “I’m an African”. This guy was born into a family of fishermen and his brothers became the best fishermen wherever they went. Be it Monterey Bay or his brother Pierre in Alaska – it was he who taught me to be tough and work until you drop – learn fast or receive the wrath of Jean. Tough,

yes, but with a heart of gold. Probably one of the most interesting men I have ever met and will ever meet. His dedication to his family, his garden or sport fishing is all very passionate. Jean, you taught me a lot, brother-in-law. Thank you and thanks for backing me up on my controversial views. You’re the greatest!

Did you know that we have our very own off shore trowlers that deliver fresh fish to us every other day? Weather permitting, Royal Seafood at the commercial wharf sells to the public as does Monterey Fish Company and Monterey Abalone Farm. Folks, we have tremendous resources right at our fingertips. Who says we don’t have fish

markets in Monterey? And what about Sea Harvest? Talking to Tony C. at Royal Seafood, they have petrale sole, English Sole, rex sole, your sole and my sole. Also snapper, cod, skate wings, sand dabs and more. Monterey Fish has salmon (wild and farmed) and excellent shellfish. Talk to Sal, Buster or Pete. For abalone, talk to Art or Trevor. Monterey Prawns (sold to restaurants only) are also back and available. Call Royal Seafood 655-8326; Monterey Fish 375-3511; Monterey Abalone 646-0350 or Sea Harvest 646-0547. Fresh Monterey Salmon is still available from either Sea Harvest or Monterey Fish. So you want fresh fish?

~~~~~

Comments: Mr. Pisto, I have a comment and a question for you. I would like to tell you that I had the best meal of my life at the Abalonetti. This is by no means an exaggeration. My husband and I were on our honeymoon this June and we went there for the calamari. We had the “Siciliano” as an appetizer and it was incredible. Then I ordered the best dinner I have ever eaten. King crab and smoked salmon ravioli in an Asiago cream sauce. It was phenomenal. Then, we had the flourless chocolate cake with raspberry sauce. I loved it and my husband said it was the best thing he had ever tasted. Thank you for
that wonderful experience. I would love to be able to recreate this meal sometime. We live in Iowa, so it may be a few years before we would be able to get out there and eat at Abalonetti again so I would love any recipes you would be willing to share. My husband and I thank you very much for an unforgettable experience at your restaurant.

Sarah Batkiewicz, Via e-mail

Response: Why thank you, Sarah – Please check my web site for recipes or to order one of my cookbooks, and you’ll be on your way!

Real guacamole! It is so easy to just buy the processed guacamole, but to making it fresh is really simple and, once you taste the fresh, you will never go back to buying the store bought. Try making your own chips too - I fried mine in olive oil. This is our Puerto Vallarta cook Inez Ramos’ Guacamole Recipe. 2 medium (firm to the touch) avocados, scooped out into a bowl. Add ˝ cup of very small diced white onion, 1 small tomato diced very small, ˝ cup chopped fresh cilantro, juice of one fresh small lime, a healthy pinch of salt and that’s it!

~~~~~

Readers: This spring’s cruise to Spain and Portugal is a done deal and Silversea is the cruise line. All first class visiting 9 ports in 10 days, plus great adventures off-shore. Call Michael at 659-0151 and keep an eye out for the TV shows I’ll be filming about all our ports of call.

Q). Gabe Rosen here. We met a long time ago. I enjoyed meeting you then, and have been enjoying your column. Where can I find whole, heads-on shrimp without paying $40 per pound? I love to make gumbo, and, as any cook knows, shrimp heads impart a very special flavor to your homemade stock. No one near here seemed able to help - so I'm talking to the boss.
Best, Gabe Rosen, Via e-mail

A). Hi Gabe, how are you buddy? Why not use Dungeness crab shells instead? Use the crab meat in your gumbo and the shells for the stock. Believe me, it will work. If you choose not to proceed that way, you must go to a place in Marina on Reservation Road next to the Korean barbecue. They get fresh fish from all over the world. It’s run by some East Indian folks who are just great. I have seen head-on shrimp there at a very reasonable price, plus other hard to find Asian ideas. You will also find all kinds of fresh Asian vegetables and fruit!

Folks, here’s a recipe for a delicious, all-purpose red sauce that tastes good on everything:

2 Roma tomatoes cut in half
4 dried red chilies
3 cloves of garlic
1/4 of a red onion sauteéd in olive oil until browned and caramelized.

Put everything into a blender with a little water and blend well. Add salt to taste.

Hot tip in Puerto Vallarta! This is a true local connection. A first-rate beautiful bed & breakfast with views, a pool, and monster-sized rooms. Very private, yet only two blocks from Main Street and overlooking the old town. Call Sergio (831) 373-3737 – very, very reasonable. What a great idea that’s just a few hours away for a long weekend!

For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants
in Monterey, California, click here.

Pisto Home Page  ♦ Current Article  ♦ Index of Articles, Recipes and Subjects