Ask the Chef

October 27, 2004  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Q). Dear Chef Pisto,

Once again, we had a fabulous dinner at your restaurant on local's night. Every time we go I tell myself I'm going to try one of the other specials...but each time I get the tomato-ginger soup (awesome!!) and the salmon (FANTASTIC)! I tell everyone about the specials and it surprises me how many folks don't know about local's night!! I keep spreading the word! We've tried several restaurants on the wharf, but Domenico's is our favorite. What made the whole evening the best was the great service by our waiter. He was most cordial, friendly and professional and made

us feel special. Thanks for giving us locals an opportunity to enjoy a treat in our own backyard!

Cynthia Ainsworth, Salinas
Via e-mail

A). Need we say more? Available to anyone with a 939 zip code - that means you, Salinas. Locals day choice of: clam chowder or salad and entrée choices of grilled salmon, fish & chips, pasta with meatballs and more - plus dessert for only $9.95. Also 2 hours free parking pass!

FYI: Heirloom tomatoes. The Farm in Salinas (455-2575) still has them for $1.50 per pound, plus

other fantastic items like basil with roots that will last at least two weeks. Just place in water and pick as you need.

Q). What is jowl fat?

Camara, Via e-mail

A). #1 it is fat from a pig; #2 it is from the jowls. What are jowls? Look in the mirror and grab your cheeks, now pull down. What you have in your fingers are your jowls - same goes for Mr. Porker. For some reason with beef and veal they are called cheeks. They can be brined, smoked and used like thick sliced bacon. There is a saying about pork - you can use everything but the oink!

~~~~~

Dear Chef,

I don't mean to bug you but you might find it of interest to know that back in the late 50's Libby ran an in-house test on their canned pumpkin. They tried several different varieties and species of squashes or pumpkins along with sweet potatoes and carrots. As I recall the consistent winner in their taste tests was the mix made with 100 percent carrots. I do agree that sweet potatoes are probably the easiest to work with, though my wife would make pumpkin pies out of what ever squashes I was able to bring home, cook and put through the ricer for her.

Carroll Briggs, Via e-mail

Chef's response: Thanks for the come back. Everyone loves carrot cake - why not carrot pie? Hmm!

Q). John I enjoy your food column. I'm interested in making the Green Goddess dressing but can't find the tarragon vinegar anywhere. Can I make it with the herb and white vinegar? What are the proportions?

Joan Hoag, Phoned in

A). Taste it Joanie! It's ok to use fresh tarragon, just mince it well. Start with a bit and keep tasting until it's right. Same with the vinegar, making your own is simple. Stuff a jar that you can close with fresh tarragon leaves. Fill with white wine vinegar and let sit for a month or so and bingo - you've got it!

Monte Vista Market has new owners Sergio Sierra, his wife Mary and their three daughters. Upgraded produce and ready to eat foods are now available everyday. Fully stocked shelves; regular and specialty foods; full meat section and fresh seafood. This is an

important neighborhood market folks, and we must support these mom and pop operations - they are the heart and soul of life. Without them we have only to the big corporations. Like they said before, it's nice to go where everyone knows your name. 

My daughter Gia called from Italy the other day and told me she was making my favorite pasta dish. Fried zucchini with fresh tomato sauce and Reggiano. Boy, oh boy, is she a chip off the old block. This is real peasant food, but let me tell you the combination of golden browned fried zucchini, sweet tomatoes and nutty Reggiano and a bit of fresh garlic, just slightly browned is heavenly. Dish up the pasta, pass around the fried zucchini (sliced thin and fried in olive oil) - then the cheese. Put the garlic in when you toss the pasta with the sauce - and watch out!

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While in Sicily I tasted the best pork sausage ever. It was very thin (like breakfast sausage) so that it cooks up fast. Very coarsely ground with salt and wild fennel seeds and that's it. I'm trying to duplicate it as we speak. They also did ones with diced mozzarella and fresh tomato and another with assorted herbs, boy was it good!


Facts!  Did you know that there are abalone in Sicily? That's right, and the price is about the same - expensive. They are only about 1 1/2'' long and are called "eye of the bull". They're served first boiled then slightly grilled in the shell with olive oil and lemon - $70 a kilo.

Q). Dear Chef Pisto,

What is your style of cooking? What type of cooking is "Pisto", Italian, Spanish, etc.?

Via e-mail

A). Great question! My heart is Sicilian: breadcrumbs, olive oil, seafood, grilling, lots of fresh vegetables and pasta. In another life I would have been in southern France, using tomatoes, black olives, stews, local fish and beef, black truffles, wild mushrooms, fish soups, thyme, garlic, olive oils, rosé wines, pastis, boules, mussels and baccala. In still

another life, I would have been in northern Italy, with wild mushrooms, white truffles, risotto, egg pasta, cream, sweet butter, polenta, veal and big steaks. Spanish cuisine also creeps into my cooking such as paella, stews, and lamb dishes. You see my friend, "Pisto Style" is nothing more than all the places that I have traveled using the foods that impressed me the most. So it's Italian, French and Spanish with Mexican, American and even Thai undertones. I hope I've answered your question.

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