Ask the Chef

November 17, 2004  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Folks, we still have chestnuts ($4.00 lb. - 5 lb. minimum), and I've discovered a new a way to cook them. Just score each one with a knife and boil until soft, about 15 minutes - much better than roasting. Make sure to have some red wine to go with them. My friend Pierre said in France they would boil them, add milk and sugar and have them for breakfast - not with red wine I hope! Also, I received a call from someone wanting to keep their fresh chestnuts around for another week. It is very important to get them out of the bag and spread out in one layer, preferably on a sheet pan. Just don't stack them because if they don't have some air around them, they will begin to ferment.


Hot movie tip - The Polar Express, we were invited to the premier showing at the Embassy Suites by Sandy and Alan Silvestri, along with their son's 6th grade class. Guess what, this was so unbelievable, there was not a peep out of any kid throughout. I thoroughly enjoyed it and it left my mouth wide open in astonishment. It is brilliant and the music was incredible. "Just a kid from Jersey" Alan Silvestri calls himself. He's the genius behind the movie's musical score.

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Q). Hi John,
Much of my family came from Sitka, Alaska and originally from Finland. One summer while visiting Sitka, I was treated to salmon cheeks - the plump disks from the "face" of the salmon. As I work for a local caterer, I had the opportunity to ask the guys at Monterey Fish about such an item. All they could say was "too much labor involved". Makes sense, but what a wonderful treat, lost. Could you pull some strings? I look forward to your future columns about Alaska.
Claudia McHenry
Monterey

A). Great idea for sure, Claudia. It is a lot of work and probably not commercially viable. This past

summer, during the Fisherman's Festival on Wharf #2, we ate some cheeks while barbecuing fresh Monterey sardines for the public. The cheeks, along with some bellies, were the remains of salmon that had been filleted. Instead of throwing them out, they were put on sheet pans and popped into the oven - nothing else needed. I can still taste those little nuggets of fatty meat. As for Alaska, I have about 15 new shows coming in next month all about Ketchikan, Petersburg and Admiralty Island - fish, fish and more fish!

Check out this weeks show on "Monterey's Cookin' Pisto Style" featuring the great Michael Bolton, the local Clark girls as kitchen helpers and David Clark as

entertainment producer. We cooked and so did Michael! The show airs everyday locally on Comcast Channel 20 at 10am, 2pm, 8pm and 9:30pm. Also on Channel 34 in Santa Cruz daily at 9am, 12 noon, 5:30pm and 8pm.

Q). Dear Chef Pisto,
How do you cut your tri-tip beef?
Art
Via e-mail

A). Always across the grain otherwise it will be stringy and tough. And it must always be sliced thin. Personally I think tri-tip is both over priced and over rated. The only way I would consider eating it would be roasted and then sliced thin on an electric slicer.

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Q). Dear John,  Your recipe for "Ultimate Meat Sauce" (12/3/03) is one I ran across today and it sounds wonderful. I do have a couple of questions. At the end of the column you stated to serve the pasta first and then the meat with a salad. Do I understand that after you cook the meat for hours then you use just the plain sauce over the pasta and then the meat from the sauce is served as a second course with salad? Have a large group to cook for very soon....You use the Pecorino instead of Parmesan? A person at an Italian deli in San Francisco told me Italian mamas use Pecorino because it is saltier, has more flavor and is less expensive by far! Thanks, John
Nancy Skager
Via e-mail

A). You got the first part exactly right - the meat is the second

course. As far as using Pecorino, money has nothing to do with it. The name of the game is flavor baby, that's what I'm talking about - flavor! Taste-test the difference yourself. Also, there are some Pecorinos that are not as salty.

Q). Chef Pisto,
My husband goes to New Orleans every year and has turtle soup when there. He would like me to make turtle soup but I can find no turtles in Pacific Grove. All the old recipes call for doing disgusting things to the turtle, if you can find one. Can you help?
Gloria Parnie
Pacific Grove

A). Gloria how can you make turtle soup without turtle? I've got the answer for you, Mock Turtle Soup Recipe made with oxtails. Good Luck! Start by making a stock using carrots, celery, onions, and salt and pepper.

Add well trimmed oxtails dusted with flour, salt and pepper. Brown well, then add dry sherry, reduce and then add some water. Bring to a boil, skim the fat and cook until the meat falls off the bone (about 1 1/2 to 2 hours), with the pot partially covered. In another pot, sauté leeks, carrots, parsley (all chopped fine), until soft. Add some flour and continue cooking another 15 minutes (med low). Strain the stock and add to vegetable mixture, then stir and blend well. It should become thick. Now add the meat from the oxtail, but first remove it from the bone making it into shreds. Add a bit of cayenne pepper, thyme, cloves, allspice, nutmeg, Worcestershire sauce, and salt and pepper. Now for the most important part, serve in a bowl with a beaker of dry sherry on the side.

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