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May 19, 2004          ...           Ask the Chef            ...          John Pisto

Q). My name is Crispin and I enjoy your recipes. In the past you said to add salt to the pasta water, but what will the salt do to the noodles, I mean what happens if you don't add the salt? All of your recipes sound good. Mr. Pisto, is there a way to safely serve puffer fish? Can you give me a recipe for batter to fry my own shrimp? Lastly, are you a better chef than Jacques Pepin?

A). First question: No salt in your pasta water equals NO flavor. The rule of thumb is two tablespoons or so, per gallon of water. Remember, the cheese you use (parmesan, Pecorino, etc.) will also add some salt to the finished product. As for puffer fish, you should avoid that one my boy! In fact, in your case I would stay away from wild mushrooms too. Question: do you like to take chances? Following is a recipe for a good all around batter for frying shrimp, fish, meat or vegetables. But first, this question of whether I am a better chef than Jacques Pepin - it's like comparing two distinctly different styles of cooking. Both are good, but at the same time, different.

Shrimp Batter Recipe:
3 cups all purpose flour
2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp black pepper
2 tbsp oil
4 beaten egg yolks
4 egg whites
Combine the first five ingredients, then gradually add 1 1/2 cups or so of beer (drink the rest), mix well and let it rest for twelve hours in refrigerator. Just before you are ready to use, whip the four egg whites and fold into the batter. Finally, add some Sensational Seasonings and that's it.

 

Q). Hi John, I was at your restaurant the other night and had the Caesar Salad prepared tableside. It was truly the best one I have ever had. Do you ever share your recipe?
Julie Anne, Monterey
Via e-mail

A). I will be happy to share this recipe with you and don't worry, you'll only have dragon-breath for about three days or so. Remember folks, garlic is so good for you and works as a natural antibiotic. By the way Julie, ask all of your friends and see how many of them know where this incredibly popular salad was invented. Italy? No; France? Forget about it! It was invented in Tijuana, Mexico in 1924 by the legendary restaurant Caesar Cardini. Now, here is my recipe from my cookbook, printed in my column last year. Make this for your loved ones and your own legend will grow.

Classic Caesar Salad Recipe - Pisto Style
Serves 4-6

Home-made croutons:
3/4 cup butter
6 garlic cloves
1 1/2 cups Parmesan cheese
2 tsp. fresh-cracked black pepper

To make croutons, cut bread into bite-sized cubes and place in mixing bowl. Melt butter in a small saucepan. Press four cloves of garlic into butter, sprinkle with 1/4 tsp. of black pepper and stir. Spoon butter mixture over bread. Grate cheese and sprinkle 1/4 cup over bread. Pre-heat oven to broil.

Place bread on a baking sheet. Broil for 2-3 minutes (check frequently so as not to burn), turn and broil for another 2-3 minutes (croutons are done when they are nicely browned). Remove from oven and let them cool. Choose a wooden bowl exclusively for this salad. Rub the bowl with one clove of garlic. The clove will dissolve into the bowl, which will forever retain this flavor. Remove dark green leaves from lettuce until you reach the heart (leaves are tight and yellow).

Salad:
6 heads of romaine lettuce
6 anchovies
2 tbsp kosher salt
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
2 lemons (juice only)
3 tsp. dry mustard
2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2 eggs

Submerge eggs in a pan of boiling water for 1 minute. Remove from pan and set aside in cold water. Place anchovies in wooden bowl. Add vinegar and crush anchovies into a paste using a wooden spoon. Add kosher salt and continue making paste. Press remaining garlic clove and add to the mixture. Add lemon juice, mustard, and Worcestershire sauce and stir. Crack eggs and discard egg whites. Add yokes to mixture and stir. Slowly pour in olive oil, stirring continuously. Tear lettuce into bite-sized pieces and place in bowl. With tongs, gently mix lettuce with dressing until no residue is found on the bottom of bowl. Mix in croutons and sprinkle with remaining cheese and fresh cracked pepper. By the way, did you know that regular salt is twice as salty as kosher salt. That's right!

Readers: It's late spring, when a man's fancy turns to, you guessed it, of course I'm talking about grilling! One thing I have never written about here is grilling vegetables.

Take asparagus for example. If you have never tried them grilled, you will simply not believe the results. Just toss them with some olive oil, salt and pepper.

Put them on your grill, let their natural sugars caramelize into beautiful grill marks and you're done. Do the same with bell peppers, eggplant, zucchini and onions - you name it and you can grill it!

For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants
in Monterey, California, click here.

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