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May 12, 2004          ...           Ask the Chef            ...          John Pisto

Q). What makes a bisque a bisque rather than soup or cream soup?
Martha
Via e-mail

A). Bisque is a thick, rich soup usually consisting of smoothly pureed seafood, sometimes fowl or vegetables and heavy cream. The term soup usually refers to a combo of vegetables, meat or fish cooked in a stock or some other liquid. It can be thick (bisque, cream soup or chowder) or it can be thin (bouillabaisse or consommé). Mostly served hot and usually garnished with something like croutons or cheese.

Thar she blows! Only in Monterey folks! - Saturday afternoon sitting in the Blue Moon Restaurant on Cannery Row, watching a pod of Gray whales frolicking just off shore.

Q). You have a very good column but in your recipes please tell your readers not to use crated, anemic veal. In our opinion we think that these acts are to these baby cows wrong and unjust. Thanks!
Via e-mail

A). That is an individual's free choice - sorry! From what I'm told they are not crated any more. The best product is now a Holstein "Vintage Natural Beef". These animals are

not caged and are fed a protein, vitamin and mineral mash devoid of iron. This produces a white veal. The day of the crated baby cows are over and done with and has been for the last 2 to 3 years. Carmel Meat Company is now called Sierra Meat Company and according to Big Bob, they have a range-fed veal that is superb - Give them a try 883-3555.

Food Tip - Fresh water chestnuts are now available. I just peel and eat them. Sweet as sugar and crunchy like an Asian pear.

 

Q). Dear John,
Can you help me with several culinary questions that have perplexed me for years? Firstly, is it proper or improper to break long pastas in half as they are put into the boiling water? Or, does it really made any difference? Secondly, many years ago at an Italian restaurant at SF Fisherman's Wharf, I had a wonderful crab and spaghetti dish. It was baked in an individual, portion size glass baking dish and served that way. It had large pieces of crabmeat with spaghetti in a creamy cheese sauce that may have had a hint of tomato. Do you have any ideas as to what it was or a recipe? Lastly, also several years ago, you presented on the telly a roasted lamb "chunk" dish that I believe you discovered during your trip to Sardinia. Or was it Corsica?

 It looked delicious! Unfortunately, I cannot remember how you did it. Again, can you provide the formula? Many, many thanks.
Your Enthusiastic, but Perplexed Fan,
Harry Keeler
Via e-mail

A). Hi perplexed - this is America you can do what ever you want with your pasta, ok? I was taught never, never, never break pasta. A few years ago I did a show with Vince DeDomenico, the former owner of Golden Grain Pasta Company. My shows are never rehearsed, we just shoot and go. I told Vince we would make his favorite pasta dish of all time which turned out to be linguine with butter and Reggiano. Okay that's easy so I prepared the ingredients and when the water started to boil, I asked Vince to put

in the pasta, BUT he broke the linguine in half! "Holy Smokes Vince, what are you doing breaking the pasta!?" "John", he said, "I always have broken the pasta." "But why Don Vincenso (he looks exactly like the Godfather in the movie)?" "Because, Johnny boy, I like it that way and it's easier to eat the pasta as it sits on the fork better." I know one simple version of the Crab and pasta dish: Make a béchamel sauce, add some crabmeat and put into a casserole dish. Sprinkle on some cheese and a bit of tomato sauce and that's it. The lamb dish was in Corsica. Buy a whole lamb shoulder and have the butcher cut it into 3-inch squares. Rub it down with olive oil, oregano and lots of garlic and bake it for 6 hours at 210 degrees. I prepared this dish for Julie Child and she called it "lamb confit", Delicious!

 

Folks, Did you know that oregano grows like a weed around here? Follow these instructions and harvest when it flowers - Cut it just about the dirt line and it will grow back next year. Tie in bunches and hang upside down until dried - store in a brown bag. Use on fresh tomato salad, pizza, sauté mushrooms and bruschetta, but not in pasta sauce.

Q). What is the going fee at our local restaurants when a bottle is brought in? I was dining at Cafe Rustica after a nice day of wine tasting in Carmel Valley. We brought in a bottle we had purchased that day. We did not check on the corkage fee because

we thought it would be fair. Our bill came with an $18 charge for opening the wine and serving 3 people. I feel this is punitive and told the owner. His reply was that he makes no money on the food therefore he has to charge this. I must look like a fool. Thank you for your response.
Teri
Via e-mail

A). What a great question folks. Get real Teri! Charging for bringing your own wine to a restaurant is totally justifiable. Why not bring your own food too! We are in the business to provide a service and you must pay for this service. Have you ever heard the saying, "If you want to dance

you must pay the fiddler"? You should always call first and ask what the restaurant policy is - this fee called "corkage" can range from not allowing it at all to a fee of $10. - $20.

Come on locals, give us a break. When taking advantage of our unrivaled dining deal every Tuesday and Wednesday on the wharf, order a cocktail or a glass of wine. Looking over the receipts, I noticed that many of you are just ordering the special and nothing else - I mean nothing. Don't you know that you enjoy your food better when you have a nice warm glow? You may find that you enjoy your company more too!

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