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January 21, 2004          ...           Ask the Chef            ...          John Pisto

Readers: This past Sunday's mushroom foray with David Arora was just great! Lots of nice people and lots of mushrooms too. David brought down about five or six pounds of rare Matsutaki mushrooms, which I grilled. These mushrooms will sell for over $200.00 per lb. when available. I would like to thank everyone for joining us. David is a tremendous speaker and storyteller. We are thinking about doing a mushroom dinner and slide show in the near future so stay tuned. In the mean time, check my web site for photos from last Sunday.


Q). Dear Chef Pisto,
Please explain the difference between chowder and bisque.
Memphis Schools, Via e-mail

A). Great question. Chowder always has chunks of potatoes or other vegetables and salt pork or bacon. The liquid can be fish stock, vegetable stock, etc. or it can be milk, half and half, or cream. Bisque usually has sautéed vegetables for flavor and/or stock made from the main ingredient (crab, shrimp, lobster, etc.). This is all cooked together, strained and reduced. To intensify the flavor, it is usually finished off with heavy cream. A garnish can be added or a dribble of this or that to finish it off.

 

Q). John, my question is about this cinnamon bread my grandmother used to make where she made her own dough, and then rolled it out flat about six to eight inches wide and about a foot long. She spread butter on the dough then sprinkled cinnamon and sugar on top, rolled it up and put it in a bread pan. John, it would come out and when you would slice it, it would be thick and gooey. Man was that good! When I try to make it the inside flows out and I lose all the sugar, butter and the cinnamon so when I cut it, it's empty. What am I doing wrong? My grandmother was pure Italian and never wrote a recipe down, can you help me? Thank you. I watch your show everyday, great show.
Via e-mail, Joe Mariano
A). You need to mix the cinnamon with dark brown sugar and load it up Joey! Press it into the dough a bit and then roll it up. If you really like gooey and sticky, try a sticky bun recipe - But watch those carbs pal!

Hi John, you asked about our favorite pasta sauce, and my favorite is the one my German/Polish mother makes. She starts with good Nebraska-raised ground beef and onions that have been browned. She adds home-canned home-grown tomatoes and little spice except salt and pepper. To this she adds sliced green and black olives that we learned to slice as young children. Until I was 21, I did not know there was any pasta except spaghetti. Thanks to Pasta

Tuesday on the Wharf, my enjoyment of pasta is expanding.
Via e-mail
Stan Rowe, Monterey

A). Thanks for the feedback on the family pasta sauce, Stan. By the way, the local's menu has expanded and the same menu is available on both Tuesday and Wednesday, every week. Many of you Monterey County locals have enjoyed this program for over a year now - can you believe it? - Tell a friend, or three!

 

Readers: Thanks to Mrs. Berti, she sent a recipe for some Italian cookies. This is a very old recipe from Italy and they are called "Dead Bones" - very interesting. If you're a cookie baker you've got to try this one.

Dead Bones Cookie Recipe
6 egg whites beaten stiff
4 cups sugar
2 to 2 1/2 cups flour (depending on the egg whites)
1 cup almonds (cut small)
1/2 tsp sweet anise or vanilla

Drop by teaspoon - Bake at 350 degree for 20 minutes.
Q). Dear Chef,
Read your column regarding Swiss sausages, but I've got a question that I'm sure will stump (but I hope not!) you and your readers. Back when I lived in Chicago in a predominately Czech neighborhood, the local butchers concocted a soft sausage called "jiternice". One of the main ingredients must be live as the Czech word for live is jatra. Are you, or is anyone, familiar with this sausage, and if so, where can I get it? On another issue entirely, many recipes call for chicken, beef, veal or duck stock. The stuff that comes in cans is too salty and I've never seen veal or duck stock. I can't
believe that chefs in restaurants laboriously make their own. Is there any commercially available? Enjoy your TV show and your column.
George Stepan
e-mail

A). You can never stump me Georgie! The best place to find jiternice is in the Czech Republic - NEXT! As for chefs making their own stocks. Believe me, we make them and they are not all that hard to do. As for commercially available veal or duck stocks, I'm not aware of any.
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