Ask the Chef

December 22, 2004  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Q).  I want to serve caviar over Christmas. How do you like to present it and where can I buy the best?

Marcia
Monterey

A).  In the old days, caviar was served with chopped egg, onion, parsley, lemon and other things as condiments that really hide the flavor of good caviar. Assuming that you are using sturgeon eggs, you should be looking for clean smelling, shiny eggs. Good caviar is never fishy or excessively salty. The three principal grades of caviar are: Beluga - the most expensive and the largest eggs; Osetra - a bit smaller, with a

golden hue and nutty taste; and Sevruga - small eggs with great flavor. Crush the eggs with your tongue against the roof of your mouth. There should be a nice semi-firm texture - you don't want it to be soft and mushy. Buying caviar is a real crapshoot so you must be very careful. As we've seen in the news, imported caviar may soon be a thing of the past. Your best bet is California farmed sturgeon. Last year Sammy Hagar and I did a tasting of caviar, foreign and domestic. The domestic won hands down! The best was from a company called Sterling Caviar (800-525-0333). Other suppliers include: Lafayette Caviar and Fine Foods (415-401-8665 ask for Jerry) and Tsar Nicoulai Caviar (800-95-CAVIAR).
My favorite ways to serve caviar: 1) Trimmed lightly-toasted white bread cut in triangles - just spoon it on - use only mother-of-pearl or bone caviar spoons - metal spoons will affect the taste - wood or plastic is okay too. 2) Fingerling potatoes that have been boiled then scooped out and top-broiled on a bed of rock salt. Fill the cavity with caviar and a dollop of crème fraîche or good quality sour cream. 3) Last, but no least, miniature buckwheat pancakes or "blinis" topped with sour cream. If you need some help eating caviar - call me at 373-3778 and I will supply you with some expert tasters.

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Q). Several weeks ago we were watching your program and you prepared a lovely pasta dish. It was a dish prepared for a function attended by Michael Bolton (pasta, eggplant, etc.) I believe it was a dish you said your mother prepared for your family for "beach picnics." I would love to find out the name of this dish so I may prepare it for Christmas dinner. My husband thought it would be a wonderful addition to our Christmas table.
Cheryl Mitchell
Via e-mail

A). Just because you have the same first name as my lovely wife, here it is:

Baked Pasta Mama Pisto Style Recipe. First, there are two versions of this dish. My mom always made it with meat balls, Italian sausage and broccoli. The one on my show was vegetarian in honor of Michael. Even without meat, it was delicious and still quite rich. Get ready to feed a small army:
4-28 ounce cans of marinara sauce
one pound of frozen peas
2 pounds of grated Pecorino
2 pounds of grated Reggiano
4 eggplants, sliced thin and grilled (the more, the better)
15 sliced hard boiled eggs
2 pounds of cooked very al dente penne pasta cooled and tossed lightly with
olive oil
2 pounds of seasoned breadcrumbs

Options include grilled fresh porcini mushrooms or squash
In a large roasting pan (with a lid), start layering. First pasta, tossed with some sauce, then a layer of eggplant, some cheese, eggs and finally breadcrumbs. Now start another layer beginning again with the pasta and so on. Make at least three layers and end with some sauce, cheese and eggplant. Cover and bake for at least 2 hours at 350 degrees and then another half hour without the lid. Let rest for one hour then cut into squares (if possible) and serve with extra sauce and grated cheese. Here's the best part Cheryl - it tastes better the next day!

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Q). Dear JP,
I went on a great 3-day weekend trip to Seattle with my wife a few weeks ago. I was excited to find a place to order Hang-Town Fry. I found a restaurant near Pikes Market and the menu said their Hang-Town Fry was loaded with oysters. To my dismay, it was served with only two oysters!  I know you have a great recipe and was wondering if you would share it.
Big Steve
Via e-mail

A). You are so right Stevarino! When you eat my version you there will be no doubt that oysters are in it. Unfortunately oysters have become very expensive.

The good news is that the quality has gone up because most are farm raised This is good, but at a price! Hang-Town Fry was originated in Placerville, CA (a.k.a. Hang Town). It was during the late 1800's that a miner, having struck it rich, wanted the most expensive thing on the menu. That just happened to be eggs, oysters, and bacon and the famous Fry was born. Is my recipe the real one? Who knows? Hang Town Fry Recipe:
4 tblsp sweet butter
3 large eggs
1 tblsp cream
3 strips bacon cooked crisp - save fat
1/2 cup small fresh oysters (or you can cut up bigger ones)
salt & pepper to taste

Beat eggs just until mixed well. Add cream, salt and pepper. Fry floured oysters in bacon fat over medium heat 3/4 of the way. Pour egg mixture into a non-stick pan with butter. Using a spatula, let the edges under the omelet cook slow. Add oysters and broken up bacon pieces. Fold when it is no longer runny. Serve with a glass of rye whiskey - just kidding, but some fried potatoes would be okay!

Folks have a wonderful Christmas weekend. It's time to celebrate your family and friends. Remember to praise the cook (whatever the outcome) and, for heaven's sake, help clean up.

For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants
in Monterey, California, click here.

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