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Q).
I want to serve caviar over Christmas. How do you like
to present it and where can I buy the best?
Marcia
Monterey
A). In the old days, caviar was
served with chopped egg, onion, parsley, lemon and other things as
condiments that really hide the flavor of good caviar. Assuming that you
are using sturgeon eggs, you should be looking for clean smelling, shiny
eggs. Good caviar is never fishy or excessively salty. The three
principal grades of caviar are: Beluga - the most expensive and the
largest eggs; Osetra - a bit smaller, with a |
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golden hue and nutty taste; and Sevruga -
small eggs with great flavor. Crush the eggs with your tongue against
the roof of your mouth. There should be a nice semi-firm texture - you
don't want it to be soft and mushy. Buying caviar is a real crapshoot so
you must be very careful. As we've seen in the news, imported caviar may
soon be a thing of the past. Your best bet is California farmed
sturgeon. Last year Sammy Hagar and I did a tasting of caviar, foreign
and domestic. The domestic won hands down! The best was from a company
called Sterling Caviar (800-525-0333). Other suppliers include:
Lafayette Caviar and Fine Foods (415-401-8665 ask for Jerry) and Tsar
Nicoulai Caviar (800-95-CAVIAR). |
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My favorite ways to serve caviar: 1) Trimmed
lightly-toasted white bread cut in triangles - just spoon it on - use
only mother-of-pearl or bone caviar spoons - metal spoons will affect
the taste - wood or plastic is okay too. 2) Fingerling potatoes that
have been boiled then scooped out and top-broiled on a bed of rock salt.
Fill the cavity with caviar and a dollop of crème fraîche or good
quality sour cream. 3) Last, but no least, miniature buckwheat pancakes
or "blinis" topped with sour cream. If you need some help eating caviar
- call me at 373-3778 and I will supply you with some expert tasters. |
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Q). Several weeks ago we were
watching your program and you prepared a lovely pasta dish. It was a
dish prepared for a function attended by Michael Bolton (pasta,
eggplant, etc.) I believe it was a dish you said your mother prepared
for your family for "beach picnics." I would love to find out the name
of this dish so I may prepare it for Christmas dinner. My husband
thought it would be a wonderful addition to our Christmas table.
Cheryl Mitchell
Via e-mail
A). Just because you have the same
first name as my lovely wife, here it is:
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Baked Pasta Mama Pisto Style
Recipe.
First, there are two versions of this dish. My mom always made it with
meat balls, Italian sausage and broccoli. The one on my show was
vegetarian in honor of Michael. Even without meat, it was delicious and
still quite rich. Get ready to feed a small army:
4-28 ounce cans of marinara sauce
one pound of frozen peas
2 pounds of grated Pecorino
2 pounds of grated Reggiano
4 eggplants, sliced thin and grilled (the more, the better)
15 sliced hard boiled eggs
2 pounds of cooked very al dente penne pasta cooled and tossed lightly
with
olive oil
2 pounds of seasoned breadcrumbs |
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Options include grilled fresh porcini
mushrooms or squash
In a large roasting pan (with a lid), start layering. First pasta,
tossed with some sauce, then a layer of eggplant, some cheese, eggs and
finally breadcrumbs. Now start another layer beginning again with the
pasta and so on. Make at least three layers and end with some sauce,
cheese and eggplant. Cover and bake for at least 2 hours at 350 degrees
and then another half hour without the lid. Let rest for one hour then
cut into squares (if possible) and serve with extra sauce and grated
cheese. Here's the best part Cheryl - it tastes better the next day!
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Q). Dear JP,
I went on a great 3-day weekend trip to Seattle with my wife a few weeks
ago. I was excited to find a place to order Hang-Town Fry. I found a
restaurant near Pikes Market and the menu said their Hang-Town Fry was
loaded with oysters. To my dismay, it was served with only two oysters!
I know you have a great recipe and was wondering if you
would share it.
Big Steve
Via e-mail
A). You are so right Stevarino! When you eat my version you there
will be no doubt that oysters are in it. Unfortunately oysters have
become very expensive.
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The good news is that the quality has
gone up because most are farm raised This is good, but at a price!
Hang-Town Fry was originated in Placerville, CA (a.k.a. Hang Town). It
was during the late 1800's that a miner, having struck it rich, wanted
the most expensive thing on the menu. That just happened to be eggs,
oysters, and bacon and the famous Fry was born. Is my recipe the real
one? Who knows? Hang Town Fry Recipe:
4 tblsp sweet butter
3 large eggs
1 tblsp cream
3 strips bacon cooked crisp - save fat
1/2 cup small fresh oysters (or you can cut up bigger ones)
salt & pepper to taste |
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Beat eggs just until mixed well. Add
cream, salt and pepper. Fry floured oysters in bacon fat over medium
heat 3/4 of the way. Pour egg mixture into a non-stick pan with butter.
Using a spatula, let the edges under the omelet cook slow. Add oysters
and broken up bacon pieces. Fold when it is no longer runny. Serve with
a glass of rye whiskey - just kidding, but some fried potatoes would be
okay!
Folks have a wonderful Christmas weekend. It's time to celebrate your
family and friends. Remember to praise the cook (whatever the outcome)
and, for heaven's sake, help clean up. |
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