December 15, 2004 Ask the Chef Article

Q). Please give me a recipe for Italian fig cookies. Via telephone

A). It's that time of year again however, baking is not one of my favorite things. You have to be too exact, no improvisation. Two of our daughters have already requested these traditional cookies known as Cucidati which is Sicilian for buccellati, or "little bracelets".

Cucidate Recipe: The Dough

3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 cup sugar

1 tsp baking powder

12 tblsp lard or butter (1 1/2 sticks) cold

2 large eggs

2-3 tblsp milk

To make the dough, combine the flour, sugar, and baking powder in a bowl and stir to mix. Rub in the lard or butter finely, leaving the mixture powdery. Beat the eggs and 2 tablespoons of the milk to combine in a small bowl and stir into the flour mixture to form a dough. Add another tablespoon milk if the dough is too dry. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead lightly a few times. Wrap the dough in plastic and chill in the fridge while preparing the filling.

The Filling

2 cups dried figs

1/2 cup golden raisins

1/4 cup currants or dark raisins1/4 cup grated orange peel

1/2 cup almonds, toasted and sliced

1/3 cup orange preserves

1/4 cup dark rum

1/2 tsp ground cinnamon

1/4 tsp ground cloves

Stem the figs and cut them into quarters. Place in a bowl, cover with boiling water and allow to steep for 10 minutes. Drain and chop coarsely in a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Combine with the remaining filling ingredients. To prepare in advance, cover tightly with plastic wrap and keep at a cool room temperature or in the refrigerator up to 3 days.

Making Cookies: Divide the dough into 12 pieces and roll each into a cylinder about 12 inches long. Flour your work surface and the dough lightly and roll it into a rectangle about 14 X 3 inches. Place a line of the filling down the center of each rectangle using one-twelfth of the filling for each piece of dough. Lift up the long edges of the dough to

enclose the filling and pinch to seal. Turn the filled sausage of dough over so that the seam is on the bottom and cut it into 3 1/2 to 4 inch lengths. Using a sharp knife paring knife or single-edged razor blade, make a series of diagonal slashes in the top of each little sausage. Pull and twist gently, holding the sausage at each end to open the slashes. Transfer the Cucidati as they are formed to paper-lined cookie sheets, curving them into wide horseshoe shapes. For the traditional egg wash, whisk one large egg with a pinch of salt and paint the Cucidati, using a soft brush. Personally, I don't care for the egg wash. I prefer the American version:

Make a fondant:

3 cups powdered sugar

a little lemon juice

1 stick sweet butter

6 tblsp condensed milk

Stir together until smooth then drape over cookies when cold! (not warm). Sprinkle with red and green Christmas sprinkles and mange! By the way, if your house is anything like mine, you better hide some for later.

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Q). Dear John,

I would like to know how to make the glaze that covers the fruit tarts sold in the bakeries. Gratefully,

Maria Paz Eltit

A). What I like to use is apple jelly. Just heat some in a small pan and brush it on. It will be very clear. If you want more flavor, use different fruit jelly. You can also try strawberry jam on strawberry tarts, get it? You might need to add a little water to get the consistency just right. Give it a try and let me know how it turns out.

Q). Dear Chef,

Would you please send me the salmon recipe you mentioned in your December 8th column in the Monterey Herald?

Many Thanks, Mick Piper
Via e-mail, Portland, Oregon

A). Folks, I'm very excited about my latest project doing an entire show on salmon. But for now, here's the recipe for Micky: Salmon Recipe
Start with a charcoal fire in a Webber or any covered grill pit, making sure the ashes are all white. Also, wash the inside of the cover to get rid of any silt build-up. Use 8 to 10 oz. slices of King salmon with the skin on. Rub each piece with olive oil and sprinkle all over with Sensational Seasoning (it has to be Sensational Seasoning). Lay the fish skin side down and cover. Start checking after 3 minutes. Have a sauce made with melted butter, a few cloves of chopped garlic, some dried oregano and a touch of lemon juice. Do not touch the fish until a crust has formed on the bottom say 3-6 minutes. Now, using a spatula, gently roll the fish over. If the skin stays there, finish cooking it separately and serve it well done - nice and crispy. To see if fish is done crack it open and please don't over cook it. When done, simply put on a plate, finish with some of the butter sauce and bingo, you're done! Served with Caesar salad, Cajun pasta or fried potatoes.

Q). Dear Chef Pisto,

Was looking for answers to the difference between bisque and chowder, and found your web site. I located references to crab but not bisque, and saw that you recommend boiling crab. I disagree. I went to college on the eastern shore of Maryland, right on the Chesapeake Bay, and we steam; we don't boil. Boiling makes the crab too watery, diluting the flavor, altering the texture and making a bigger mess. Try it. Same goes for lobster: steam don't boil.

All the best,
J.D. Douglass
Bellingham, WA

A). J.D. I do believe I was talking about Dungeness, however you have a very good point and I agree and will pass it along. Folks like the man says, steam don't boil!