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August 11, 2004          ...           Ask the Chef            ...          John Pisto

Master Fisherman Floyd Kookash of Angoon, Alaska had us taste some great native foods while visiting there a couple of weeks ago. Here's the picture: we're trolling for salmon (silver, king, whatever) and there's a lull in the action. We've been out for over three hours and the hunger is starting to build. We were fishing the inland passage of the South East Alaskan Islands, all over the place. Calm, glassy water, blue sky, temperature about 65 degrees, no wind - a wonderful day to be alive - especially among friends and pure, clean Alaska. The native foods are simple yet exotic.


 Native food time folks - first, out comes the seal meat with cracklins and seal oil. Next dried seaweed and dried, paper-thin halibut and salmon, to dip in the seal oil of course. He also brought some alder wood-smoked King salmon sticks and pure King salmon, canned in it's own juices - no additives. And finally, pickled critin (similar to abalone) and real hard-tack biscuits. Folks, that's what I call living! Oh by the way, the seal meat was very red, almost maroon in color and tasted like beef. No fishy flavor, actually very good. Harbor seal is what they prefer, according to Master guide Floyd. It made me think of all the harbor seals we have in Monterey next to the rocks by the Monterey Bay Aquarium. I must remember to keep an eye on Floyd next time he visits Monterey. Now if I could just get him to eat those noisy crows that are all over the peninsula - Just kidding bird lovers, no nasty e-mails please.


 


 

Q). I'm looking for a good recipe for pickled pigs feet. Can you help?

Lawrence e-mail

A). First you must find the feets! Have them split for you. Wash them well, especially between the toes. Next place in a large pot of water seasoned with whole pepper corns and some chopped onion, carrots and celery. Add a small amount of pickling spice and a few garlic cloves. Now keep these babies covered over a low boil for at least 2 hours (the meat and cartilage should fall off the bone).

Allow them to cool and then remove the meat from the bones and cut into small pieces. Some people like to leave the bones in and kind of suck on them to get all of that succulent meat off of them. This is a no-bone recipe. Finally, make a vinaigrette with three parts white wine vinegar, a teaspoon of Dijon mustard, one part extra virgin olive oil, fresh chopped parsley, a pinch of oregano, a pinch of crushed red pepper, a pinch of sugar and some chopped fresh garlic. Mix well and make enough to last about 3 to 4 days. Serve as an appetizer or on a salad. Great texture and great taste. Happy feets to you!

Q). Dear Chef Pisto, I live in Youngstown, Ohio (approx. 60 miles south of Cleveland and 60 miles west of Pittsburgh, PA) and never knew about fresh anchovies. Are they available only along the coast? Don't know where to get them around here. Enjoy your shows.

Joe Alessi E-mail

A). Your chances of finding fresh anchovies in Youngstown, Ohio is about as good as finding a salami sandwich in Beijing China, however frozen ones may be available near you. Call Monterey Fish (831) 422-9407 for some advice.

 

Folks, I'm going to give you one of the best cooking tips of your life. I cooked some silver salmon last night and people flipped like mackerel over it. The secret is low temp - 225 degrees, that's right 225 degrees, for 20 to 30 minutes. King salmon done this way is "like butta", as my buddy Ted Balestreri would say. Sauce it any way you like or you can even use a dry rub like Sensational Seasoning. Serve with a sliced heirloom tomato, red onion and fresh beet salad - and big chunks of melon. Any fish will be delish with this low-temp cooking. I 'm so happy to share this with you all.

Q). Chef John: Sometime back you mentioned about the spot in PG where one could buy cucidati. I went and bought a dozen and they were good. Now my problem is, I've been there a number of times without success. They even promised to call me when they had some, nada! Any place else? I'm 85 and can't wait forever.

Your Castroville friend, Gene Boggiatto

Via e-mail

A). Hang on Geno! Layers, at 160 Webster St, Monterey (655-1544), now carries not only those Sicilian fig cookies you crave, but an assortment of others. For those of you that don't know about cucidati, it is a southern Italian cookie made with ground figs in a soft dough with no icing. Mostly seen around Christmas time, they are a bit of a pain to make, but everyone loves them.

 

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